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Got plugs changed finally...

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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #1  
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Got plugs changed finally...

Got plugs changed finally, 118K on the clock - bought it at 86K and hadn't touched them till now. Wasn't a bad job, just took a little while. Anyone thinking of doing this yourself don't be afraid to do it, easy job if you have some mechanical know-how.

FWIW, my boots were in excellent shape i'd say, plugs were another story, way past due. I replaced the boots anyway.

I used Autolite Platinum plugs, part number APP103.

I used Standard Motor Products boots part number HD2061-2 from Rock Auto. They come with 2 boots and 2 springs per box.

Used anti-seize on the threads, dielectric grease on all electrical connections.

Torqued plugs to 14 ft lbs (168 inch lbs).

Take your time, and blow out the plug holes very good BEFORE taking the plugs out (mine had rocks and dirt in them).

Pat
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by sandman3510
Anyone thinking of doing this yourself don't be afraid to do it, easy job if you have some mechanical know-how.

Agreed.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BigPigDaddy
Agreed.
X2

I did mine a few weeks ago, used the same plugs too. #5 is a bi-otch, but other than that it was pretty easy.

Sandman!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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I thought 14 ft-lbs. was with no anti-seize compound or am I mistaken? I read somewhere 21 ft-lbs with it?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:53 PM
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Beats the heck outta me. 14 ft lbs sounded like a good number so I went with it. That's how I roll

Seriously though, they felt nice and tight at that torque.

Pat
 
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Old May 4, 2011 | 07:14 PM
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Wiring harnesses?

What did you do to get the harnesses out of the way? Just work around them? I've got #1 and #6 done..go figure...I can get to 7 and 8 pretty easy, but theres a LOT of crap in the way on the pass side..

Suggestions?
 
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Old May 4, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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I was able to work around the harness, and used a variety of extensions, 6", 8", 2" - I was able to get to them all without any major hassle. Just take your time and remember to breathe

Pat
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 09:13 PM
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Got it!

I figured out what I was doing wrong...

Trying to stuff my big mitts up in there was not working, so my wonderful wife came out and had 4 coils of the drivers side in 15 minutes, I couldnt get the damn plugs gapped fast enough!! haha

Runs like a champ, cleared 6 codes..no more SES!
 
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Old May 8, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by EM1/SS(ret)
my wonderful wife
Sounds like a keeper!!
 
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Old May 9, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818
I thought 14 ft-lbs. was with no anti-seize compound or am I mistaken? I read somewhere 21 ft-lbs with it?
Anti seize is a lubricant, so the torque needs to be LOWER when it is used.
14 with, 21 without sounds like good numbers to use.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 12:14 AM
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Just curious, but did you notice a mileage change with the new plugs? I'm needing to change them on my '04 V10 (96K) but have been putting it off.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 09:09 AM
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Yes, I believe I picked up about 1 mpg or so - but keep in mind my old plugs were really bad.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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Thanks for sharing this. I've being waiting to do the plugs on my truck as I have no idea when they were last changed. I bought my truck with right around 60k miles and the truck was a fleet maintained former police vehicle. I'm hoping that the truck was sold prior to the plugs being changed, and that changing them will give some efficiency gains.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mwsF250
Anti seize is a lubricant, so the torque needs to be LOWER when it is used.
14 with, 21 without sounds like good numbers to use.

Reading the website from blownsparkplugs.com anti-seize isn't required for Motorcraft plugs (or other platinum coated threads) since they won't seize up in the heads as older style steel threads were prone to do. They also claim to have run the torque up to 90 ft/lbs with no stripping out etc. Lots of though provoking ideas floated on that site---worth a read sometime.

Yes anti-seize is a lubricant which means if a threaded fastened is "eased" into mating threads theoretically they're just as easily "eased out"----if this is true then a higher torque setting would seem to be called for. Relating to torqued fasteners its a "five on, one off......" rule where its put forth only one fifth of the torque is required to loosen a fastener. Naturally this precludes many many specialized fasteners but for spark plugs it might be very appropriate.

I'll use a nickel-based anti seize and torque Motorcraft plugs to 21 ft/lbs which seems to be acceptable. I'll also never go over 50K miles on a set of plugs either!
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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There's a 6-year old thread on the forums that describes the entire process of changing plugs on the V10. It's worth a read to anyone that is planning to do that for the first time.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ug-change.html

The thread also has a good discussion on torque specs. Apparently, even Ford doesn't know as they even publish different setting in different locations of the same manual. But 21 ft/lbs is way over any published spec. Ford seems to recommend anywhere from 7.4 ft/lbs (89 in/lbs) to 11 ft/lbs.

My X is due for plugs. I'm planning to be a lot more conservative than most of you and torque to about 11 ft/lbs.
 
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