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Reading the website from blownsparkplugs.com anti-seize isn't required for Motorcraft plugs (or other platinum coated threads) since they won't seize up in the heads as older style steel threads were prone to do. They also claim to have run the torque up to 90 ft/lbs with no stripping out etc. Lots of though provoking ideas floated on that site---worth a read sometime.
Yes anti-seize is a lubricant which means if a threaded fastened is "eased" into mating threads theoretically they're just as easily "eased out"----if this is true then a higher torque setting would seem to be called for. Relating to torqued fasteners its a "five on, one off......" rule where its put forth only one fifth of the torque is required to loosen a fastener. Naturally this precludes many many specialized fasteners but for spark plugs it might be very appropriate.
I'll use a nickel-based anti seize and torque Motorcraft plugs to 21 ft/lbs which seems to be acceptable. I'll also never go over 50K miles on a set of plugs either!
The problem isn't seizing, its a problem of dissimilar metals corrosion (galvanic corrosion). If you dont use the antiseize on the plugs, corrosion will appear in the threads causing the weaker of the two (the aluminum threads in the head) to degrade heightening your chances of a plug blowout. Anti-seize lubricant is a necessity when it comes to the V10 and fasteners. The same problem is present with the exhaust manifold studs.
Hey Mr Bass----when you get a chance read the blownsparkplugs thread too----like me you'll find a lot of useful info about that ever changing plug torque setting. They seem to have done so much work determining their own optimal torque its well worth the time spent reading it.
Along with the thread you cite there should be enough good and real hands-on experience with this process.
Hey Mr Bass----when you get a chance read the blownsparkplugs thread too----like me you'll find a lot of useful info about that ever changing plug torque setting. They seem to have done so much work determining their own optimal torque its well worth the time spent reading it.
Along with the thread you cite there should be enough good and real hands-on experience with this process.
Hi JWA,
The site's a real treasure-trove of information. The biggest problem seems to be that there's so much information, and organized by "some guy asked this question over here". It can sometimes be challenging to find answers, hence the regular use of "look over here, someone already solved this" links.
I'd like to see the site develop a "best of" or "definitive answers" thread and links to these fine discussions put into the thread. Maintenance of the thread could be a challenge.
You are correct Mr Bass---what I've gleaned is nothing but Motorcraft plugs, anti-seize on the threads. torque to about 21 ft/lbs, check all boots and dielectric grease aplenty.
My own experience discovered the COP connectors are subject to losing their locking tabs which can be its own source of aggravation.
You are correct Mr Bass---what I've gleaned is nothing but Motorcraft plugs, anti-seize on the threads. torque to about 21 ft/lbs, check all boots and dielectric grease aplenty.
My own experience discovered the COP connectors are subject to losing their locking tabs which can be its own source of aggravation.
Oh well..................
I think that I'd reduce that torque setting by half. Steel plugs in an aluminum head, held in place by only about 4 threads. With the anti-seize acting as a lubricant you're getting every bit of that 21 ft/lbs. All you need is for the plug to be tight enough that it seals regardless of head temperature. Pulling the threads out of a head is not something that I want to do to my X.
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