Pushrod/ rocker combinations
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 270
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From: pittsburgh,pa
I did read the link and just printed it out it was very helpful, Thanks.
I ordered the pushrod measuring tool today, but I was curious if I pull my valve cover if it would be easy to tell by the naked eye if they are short or long?
I matched the orginal rod length which I have found doesn't mean a thing, since the heads were milled and all new CJ valves were installed.
Thanks again
Jason
If the rods are too long do they make a ticking noise? This is all new to me sorry for the questions.
I ordered the pushrod measuring tool today, but I was curious if I pull my valve cover if it would be easy to tell by the naked eye if they are short or long?
I matched the orginal rod length which I have found doesn't mean a thing, since the heads were milled and all new CJ valves were installed.
Thanks again
Jason
If the rods are too long do they make a ticking noise? This is all new to me sorry for the questions.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
By the naked eye, no. They come in .060 increments (custom lengths are available), which isn't very easy to tell apart even when they are out of the motor.
Measuring is the only way to know. And you have to have pushrods of some length to measure from, so don't kick yourself too hard for getting the original length.
Measuring is the only way to know. And you have to have pushrods of some length to measure from, so don't kick yourself too hard for getting the original length.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: pittsburgh,pa
Well I got the driveside valve cover off tonight and ran the engine a bit before I ran out of light. (The garage I keep my car in doesn't have electric.) Tomorrow I will pull the pass side and try to check per the link you provided.
What is the easiest way if there is one to compress the lifters as the article explains to do?
I appeared by th enaked eye that none of the rockers were loose like, but the ticking is evident. I used a dowl rod to try and pin point where the the noise was coming from. It sounded like the first lifter on #5 cylinder is ticking and also one of the #8 lifters.
Again I am still going to check the pushrod lengths, but I did want to share this info also.
What is the easiest way if there is one to compress the lifters as the article explains to do?
I appeared by th enaked eye that none of the rockers were loose like, but the ticking is evident. I used a dowl rod to try and pin point where the the noise was coming from. It sounded like the first lifter on #5 cylinder is ticking and also one of the #8 lifters.
Again I am still going to check the pushrod lengths, but I did want to share this info also.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
Guess that would be helpful lol. Use Ford tool T58P-6565-A. I'll try to find a link to a pic of it or something.
Edit: here's a link showing the tool 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: Need a part # or pic of the tool for checking lifter preload
Edit: here's a link showing the tool 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: Need a part # or pic of the tool for checking lifter preload
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: pittsburgh,pa
Thanks, I will ask a few oldtimers in my neighborhood one might have this tool.
As I said before I did order an adjustable pushrod to measure for the coorect pushrod length. Should I use the method described in the link above and the adjustable rod to measure? Maybe I could use both and compare results.
As I said before I did order an adjustable pushrod to measure for the coorect pushrod length. Should I use the method described in the link above and the adjustable rod to measure? Maybe I could use both and compare results.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: pittsburgh,pa
Well I think I discovered a few problems.
With the valve covers I brought the engine up to operating temp. I noticed the intake rod for #5 cyl. was spinning slowly not like the others. Once the engine was up to temp. it practically stop while the engine was idling. If rpm's increased it would spin alittle faster but not like the the others. The same issue was evident on #2 cyl. but both rods. What would cause rods not to spin like they should?
Now the other issue. I attempted to measure the rod length per the link provided. I brought #1 up to TDC and checked the clearances.
#1 intake about .150
#3 intake .250
#7 intake couldn't get to compress
#8 intake couldn't get to compress
#1 exhaust .150
#4 exhaust couldn't get to compress
#5 exhaust couldn't get to compress
#8 exhaust couldn't get to compress
The lifters not bleeding down has me worried, but they seem to work properly when the engine is running.
The #3 intake of .250 is out of tolerance, but would that have to due with where the cam lobe is? I am wondering if this lifter is sitting lower due to the cam lobe position.
With the valve covers I brought the engine up to operating temp. I noticed the intake rod for #5 cyl. was spinning slowly not like the others. Once the engine was up to temp. it practically stop while the engine was idling. If rpm's increased it would spin alittle faster but not like the the others. The same issue was evident on #2 cyl. but both rods. What would cause rods not to spin like they should?
Now the other issue. I attempted to measure the rod length per the link provided. I brought #1 up to TDC and checked the clearances.
#1 intake about .150
#3 intake .250
#7 intake couldn't get to compress
#8 intake couldn't get to compress
#1 exhaust .150
#4 exhaust couldn't get to compress
#5 exhaust couldn't get to compress
#8 exhaust couldn't get to compress
The lifters not bleeding down has me worried, but they seem to work properly when the engine is running.
The #3 intake of .250 is out of tolerance, but would that have to due with where the cam lobe is? I am wondering if this lifter is sitting lower due to the cam lobe position.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
It's not uncommon for the rods to spin at different rates. What is most important is that the lifter is spinning. Run it to operating temp and shine a light down the lifter bore to see if the suspect lifter is spinning like the rest. If the lifters are spinning then it's fine, if a lifter isn't spinning it will eat a cam lobe in short order... but lets cross that bridge if we come to it.
You can only check some with #1 at TDC, the others have to be checked with #6 at TDC.
With #1 at TDC check cylinder 1,3,7,8 intakes and 1,4,5,8 exhausts
Then bring #6 to TDC and check 2,4,5,6 intakes and 2,3,6,7 exhausts
Are you using the tool to bleed these down?
You can only check some with #1 at TDC, the others have to be checked with #6 at TDC.
With #1 at TDC check cylinder 1,3,7,8 intakes and 1,4,5,8 exhausts
Then bring #6 to TDC and check 2,4,5,6 intakes and 2,3,6,7 exhausts
Are you using the tool to bleed these down?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 270
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From: pittsburgh,pa
I couldn't locate the tool tonight, so I made tool out of a longscrew driver. It worked for some, but some of them wouldn't budge. I guess I need to find the right tool. I just hope the lifters that wouldn't bleed down don't have stuckcheck valves. I really dont want to replace lifters.
Would the cam position effect the tolerance between the rocker and valve stem?
Would the cam position effect the tolerance between the rocker and valve stem?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 270
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From: pittsburgh,pa
Well I got a tool that would work to bleed the lifters today.
What I found is some of the pushrods are within tolerance being under .200, some are right at the maximum +/- .010 to .020, and some are over the allowable tolerance,.250 to .230.
With those results, whats next? Replace all of them with .060 longer rods or jus the ones out of tolerance?
On a side not, I was able to shine a light down and see the lifters. All appear to be spinning nicely!
What I found is some of the pushrods are within tolerance being under .200, some are right at the maximum +/- .010 to .020, and some are over the allowable tolerance,.250 to .230.
With those results, whats next? Replace all of them with .060 longer rods or jus the ones out of tolerance?
On a side not, I was able to shine a light down and see the lifters. All appear to be spinning nicely!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
Good news on the lifters spinning! And I'm guessing you didn't find any that were weak (bled down easier than the rest)?
With those clearance numbers it sounds like you won't be able to run all one size. Try to get them all as close to the same clearance as possible. This might mean using 3 or 4 different lengths (remember .060 incremenets) but everything will be evened up. Just remember if you ever have it apart you MUST keep them in order. I just have a block of wood with 16 holes drilled in it to keep them where they're supposed to be.
With those clearance numbers it sounds like you won't be able to run all one size. Try to get them all as close to the same clearance as possible. This might mean using 3 or 4 different lengths (remember .060 incremenets) but everything will be evened up. Just remember if you ever have it apart you MUST keep them in order. I just have a block of wood with 16 holes drilled in it to keep them where they're supposed to be.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: pittsburgh,pa
Thanks for your help and advice. I will take each measurement and determine what lengths to get so they the clearance for each rocker is close and within tolerance.
I can't recall one lifter bleeding down any easier than another.
I can't recall one lifter bleeding down any easier than another.
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