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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

check engine , engine miss

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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #16  
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(both connectors melted) and also what caused this problem.......
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This is from Racer X...

Excess resistance in the circuit is what causes it to burn the harness. Wiring is to small to handle the heat when the plug doesn't use the amps up to heat the tip. Heres a simple explanation:

Ford/Nav VC gasket/harness was redesigned with better conductors several years ago. Here's a basic way to explain it without math at all:

If the glow plug (load) were to short, the burn or weld will happen at the point the short occurs. If you use a welder it welds at the electrode (load). It won't burn up your weld cables.

So why does the harness connector melt? Excessive Resistance causes heat. A GP has little resistance or ohms. It's nearly full power that warms the tip using up power to make heat. What little power isn't used returns thru ground to battery completing the circuit. Excess resistance or poor conduction from green stuff or corrosion prevents full power from flowing to the load (glow plug). The wiring gets hot and melts because you still have a complete circuit back to battery ground, but no load to use the power up and keep the wiring cool as power flows thru it.

Now think of the welder again. What happens if you forget to put a ground clamp on the metal to be welded and touch the electrode (load) to the metal? Nothing. The circuit is not complete, so no power flows at all. No weld or short.

Best way to prevent the burned wiring is a good conductor to your GP's. I pack Di grease in all underhood connectors. The best way to keep the connection moisture free and clean is silicone dielectric.

If your harness burn't from the GP connector back, then you may have a shorted plug. Ohm it, compared to the others. If it ohms out higher than the rest it's also BAD. The extra resistance is inside the plug, not allowing full power to the tip.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 06:54 PM
  #17  
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Good read thanks . I'll just replace the glow plugs while I am in there and use dielectric grease on the reassembly.

Anyone up on the harness, is it available as a repair part or do I need to buy the complete harness?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 07:14 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Jaaaaaaackman
Good read thanks . I'll just replace the glow plugs while I am in there and use dielectric grease on the reassembly.

Anyone up on the harness, is it available as a repair part or do I need to buy the complete harness?

Valve Cover Harness Repair Kits (contains 4 hard shells w/seals, w/o terminals)
(Ford) F7TZ-14489-BA (94-96)
(Ford) F7TZ-14489-AA (97)
(International) 1830829C91 removal tool and Shells w/o pins
(International) 1661875C1 Pins
(International) 2501055C1 Pins with 6" wire
Valve Cover Pigtails with plug and wires, OBS
(Performance Specialties) 99288
Valve cover harness replacement terminals:
Industry P/N 103935; Winzer Distributing (1-800-527-4126) selection number D52
Valve Cover Harness "Wedge" repair (not sure of years it fits or what it looks like)
(Ford) 2c3z-14a163-ab
Valve Cover Gasket (94-97)
(Ford) F4TZ-6584-A
(International) 1818350C2
Valve Cover Harness, under valve cover
(Ford) F4TZ-9D930-K (94-97)
(International) 1815923C92 (94-97)

& also …here…. Powerstrokeshop.com
NAPA may have them too ...
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #19  
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The napa kit is not that bad for an aftermarket kit.
It comes with gasket and inner and outer wire harness connectors.
Complete under VC harness. Outer is the end connectors.

BTW---I hate napa BS parts. But have used the vc setup.

B
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 04:38 PM
  #20  
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FORD dealer could not find a repair kit , he did find just a conector shell with this part# (Ford) F7TZ-14489-BA (94-96) but no wires so I went to NAPA and bought a kit it has everything needed like MadVan said it looks pretty good or as good as Ford but a whole lot less money , 74 dollars out the door
 
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