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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 01:00 AM
  #1  
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Header/4bbl intake questions

Alright, so I've saved up about half of what it's gonna cost for a mini-starter, Edelbrock 1403, Offy intake, and a set of headers. Now, I've already done alot of research about the EFI manifolds, but I've decided not to go that route, and decided on headers instead, coupled with a mini-starter. However, I do have some questions.

First, is there any way to prevent the header from leaking at the gasket? I'll be switching to grade 8 studs, etc., but is there a way to tighten them down, run and re-torque twice and be done? I don't want to be constantly re-torquing my header bolts/nuts..

Second, I've decided to go with an Offy intake instead of a Clifford, but which one would be best for a daily driver/off-road application? The 'C' model or the 'DP' model? What's the difference, performance/flow wise, aside from one being a dual plane?

I've probably got a couple more questions, but after a 14 hour shift at work, I'm exhausted and my brain's fried. Thanks alot, guys, in advance.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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I think the first key to eliminating exhaust leaks is to ensure the exhaust/header flange and intake mounting tabs are the same thickness. Beyond that, switching to studs and using locking nuts should help keep them snug - although a occasionally checking them for tightness is never a bad idea.

DP vs. C? If the engine will remain otherwise stock I'd say DP, if you're planning on a new cam, porting, etc. down the line I'd say C. I've got a C and EFI manifolds on an otherwise stock 300 and it works fine, but have no frame of reference for comparison vs. the DP manifold. I believe a cat named Buddy Rawls (over at the FSP board) made the swap from DP to C, search over there for the post.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 03:07 PM
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If you are running the Edelbrock 1403 carb I'd go with the Offy C-series intake.

And you might want to invest in a starter heat shield wrap. That will let your starter survive longer with the heat of the header/s by it.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:05 PM
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I have read a few posts where the writer said they could tell a performance increase just changing from the DP to the C. I chose the DP for mpg. That is the essence of the choice.

Use Mr. Gasket #260 int/exh gasket. I have run the header/studs/crimp nuts for about two years w/o problem. But it has to tightened in sequence. I blew out the first gasket by tightening one nut seperately and cracked the gasket!

When you do the install, take the oem thick washers and grind one side down on a bench grinder so they sit flat from intake to header. Torque in sequence, heat, retorque, heat, retorque, and forget about it.

Oh, almost forgot: a company names Remflex makes a graphite gasket for the 300. I've never heard from anyone who actually used one.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
I have read a few posts where the writer said they could tell a performance increase just changing from the DP to the C. I chose the DP for mpg. That is the essence of the choice.

Use Mr. Gasket #260 int/exh gasket. I have run the header/studs/crimp nuts for about two years w/o problem. But it has to tightened in sequence. I blew out the first gasket by tightening one nut seperately and cracked the gasket!

When you do the install, take the oem thick washers and grind one side down on a bench grinder so they sit flat from intake to header. Torque in sequence, heat, retorque, heat, retorque, and forget about it.

Oh, almost forgot: a company names Remflex makes a graphite gasket for the 300. I've never heard from anyone who actually used one.
I've ran both the DP and the C-series. I prefer the C-series.

I know the Remflex gaskets work great on a V8. But I've never tried them on a 300.
 
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