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Could someone bring me up to date on 302 starters? I recently decided to replace the starter on my 85 302. However, I've seen OEM, high torque mini-starters, and starters with the solenoid mounted on them GM style that they (Ebay) say will retrofit to my 302. Do they eliminate the old firewall mount solenoid switch? The local parts house says manual and automatic transmission starters and different. Ebay sellers say otherwise. I'm confused. What's the real story as to what fits my 85 302 and which one is the best and why? I'm using an FMX with a 164 tooth flexplate...
For the stock Ford starters, the manual and auto are different, with the auto being a little longer on the nose. (I think, or it could be the other way around) The one with the solenoid mounted on it was a 460 only option, but it will work on other engines. Also you must keep the fender mounted solenoid too I think all of the newer mini starters will interchange between manual and auto. Is this about as clear as mud
If you use the new mini starter you should take the old solenoid out of the circuit. First of all the stock solenoid is redundant, the new starter has a solenoid built in. Here's what will happen if you leave both connected...you turn the key on to start, the stock firewall-mounted solenoid engages sending power to the starter solenoid, the starter solenoid engages the bendix drive and the engine begins to turn over. The engine starts and you release the key...the firewall-mounted solenoid disengages and after a short delay the power to the starter solenoid drops which causes the starter bendix to disengage. Here's the problem...with 2 solenoids in the circuit there is enough delay to cause the starter gear to stay engaged after the engine has begun to run. If you are lucky this may only cause a bit of a grinding noise but in some cases the starter gear will chatter. This happened to a guy in our club...unfortunately it wasn't on his truck alone but also on quite a few others that he had installed the new ministarter on.
Could someone bring me up to date on 302 starters?... I'm confused. What's the real story as to what fits my 85 302 and which one is the best and why? I'm using an FMX with a 164 tooth flexplate...
Question; is the flexplate you're using original to the FMX, or is it a replacement 50oz imbalance conversion plate? I don't know when Ford stopped using the FMX, but I'm guessing it was before 1981, and your trans is older than that.
Since the starter bolts to the transmission bellhousing, the year of the engine is irrelevant. I would get one intended for your trans application, rather than the engine application. More importantly, be sure you have the correct flexplate, or you will have severe engine problems.
Question; is the flexplate you're using original to the FMX, or is it a replacement 50oz imbalance conversion plate? I don't know when Ford stopped using the FMX, but I'm guessing it was before 1981, and your trans is older than that.
Since the starter bolts to the transmission bellhousing, the year of the engine is irrelevant. I would get one intended for your trans application, rather than the engine application. More importantly, be sure you have the correct flexplate, or you will have severe engine problems.
The 85 engine came with a 50 oz, 164 tooth flexplate and an AOD. I removed the AOD and will be bolting on a 71 Mustang FMX. It takes the same flexplate as the AOD. I also have a new 50 oz, 164 tooth flexplate. I feel confident I have all the right stuff to match...just wasn't sure about the starter...
The 85 engine came with a 50 oz, 164 tooth flexplate and an AOD. I removed the AOD and will be bolting on a 71 Mustang FMX. It takes the same flexplate as the AOD. I also have a new 50 oz, 164 tooth flexplate. I feel confident I have all the right stuff to match...just wasn't sure about the starter...
Sounds like you have all that under control.
Mini starters, aside from their obvious size and weight advantage, have the benefit of higher torque from it's gear reduction design. Handy if you have a high compression engine you're trying to turn over at the drags when hot. For your typical street car, it's not such a big deal. Don't know enough about different brands to mace a recommendation there.
I am using one for a couple of reasons; it gives me the clearance I need from the headers, not only from the size aspect but also the variable mounting keying. With the built-in solenoid I don't have to clutter up my engine compartment with a seperate solenoid. And as Wayne has stated, the gear reduction and higher effciency motor really make this an excellent performance upgrade.
My wish list on my truck includes a mini-starter. As of now, I am running a POS lifetime starter from a local FLAPS store. I have not had the "hot start" issue people describe, but I have had an issue with my starter that is bothering me. I am not trying to hijack your thread, but if it goes that direction I will start a new thread on my own. My engine, flywheel, and starter are all 1965 spec 289 parts. Sometimes my starter does not engage the flywheel, causing a grinding noise. It may do this two or three times, then it will engage properly for the next 15 or so times I start it.
Sometimes my starter does not engage the flywheel, causing a grinding noise. It may do this two or three times, then it will engage properly for the next 15 or so times I start it.
That's a typical symptom of a Bendix drive going bad. They're easy to replace, and a lot cheaper than a new starter. Better to do it now than wait until it leaves you stranded. When I was a kid, my Dad was the master at changing them. ;-)
That's a typical symptom of a Bendix drive going bad. They're easy to replace, and a lot cheaper than a new starter. Better to do it now than wait until it leaves you stranded. When I was a kid, my Dad was the master at changing them. ;-)
Well, getting a 71 Ford starter to match the year of the transmission didn't work. It bolts to the bell housing okay but the diameter where it goes through the block plate is 4 1/2 inches (1/2 inch too big). Tomorrow I'm trying an 85 starter which is only 4 inches in diameter where it goes through the block plate.
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