95 351W Air Pump Bypass Question
95 351W Air Pump Bypass Question
Good Day to All
My airpump seized up and I have it off the motor. I have read threads about bypassing the pump completely (requiring a new smaller belt).
The truck already has Ford Racing shorty headers, custom Y pipe to high flow cat and flowmaster exhaust and the air pump plumbing is gone. I have run this set up for almost a year with no codes / CEL.
What I'd like to know is:
1. For anyone that has done this mod can you tell me what size belt you've used. The present belt is 102".
2. I've read in another forum that doing this mod will put more strain on the altenator pulley, but that doesn't make sense to me.
I'm planning on using the idler pulley and auto belt tensioner as in the original set up, just take out the air pump from the equation.
Thanks for your time and assistance.
CS45
My airpump seized up and I have it off the motor. I have read threads about bypassing the pump completely (requiring a new smaller belt).
The truck already has Ford Racing shorty headers, custom Y pipe to high flow cat and flowmaster exhaust and the air pump plumbing is gone. I have run this set up for almost a year with no codes / CEL.
What I'd like to know is:
1. For anyone that has done this mod can you tell me what size belt you've used. The present belt is 102".
2. I've read in another forum that doing this mod will put more strain on the altenator pulley, but that doesn't make sense to me.
I'm planning on using the idler pulley and auto belt tensioner as in the original set up, just take out the air pump from the equation.
Thanks for your time and assistance.
CS45
Thank you for that link. I will have to try the different methods of routing the belt.
I did try just routing the belt with eliminating the air pump but it seems that the auto tensioner doesn't work that way. I came up with a 94.5" belt. I am waiting for my new rad to be delivered so I can't run the truck up before then.
CS45
I did try just routing the belt with eliminating the air pump but it seems that the auto tensioner doesn't work that way. I came up with a 94.5" belt. I am waiting for my new rad to be delivered so I can't run the truck up before then.
CS45
Update for those who care.
Turns out eliminating the air pump (or smog pump) on the 351W isn't as easy as you would think. I ended up having to purchase a eliminator pulley from Jegs. I am waiting to see if I can use the original belt or have to down size. According to Jegs it's a straight bolt on replacement but I'm learning that seeing is believing with my Ford.
On another note I noticed that the seal on my fan clutch was leaking and there was hardly any resistance to it, compared to the replacement I got today. Another 60 bucks gone.
Still waiting for my brass/copper rad to be delivered and installed.
CS45
Turns out eliminating the air pump (or smog pump) on the 351W isn't as easy as you would think. I ended up having to purchase a eliminator pulley from Jegs. I am waiting to see if I can use the original belt or have to down size. According to Jegs it's a straight bolt on replacement but I'm learning that seeing is believing with my Ford.
On another note I noticed that the seal on my fan clutch was leaking and there was hardly any resistance to it, compared to the replacement I got today. Another 60 bucks gone.
Still waiting for my brass/copper rad to be delivered and installed.
CS45
Turns out eliminating the air pump (or smog pump) on the 351W isn't as easy as you would think. I ended up having to purchase a eliminator pulley from Jegs. I am waiting to see if I can use the original belt or have to down size. According to Jegs it's a straight bolt on replacement but I'm learning that seeing is believing with my Ford.
If your FEAD has the upper tensioner, you'd be able to keep the factory routing while eliminating the air pump.
I didn't realize how difficult it would be to get a clear pic with the huge factory fan shroud in the way. Hopefully this helps.


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That was exactly what I needed to know. Thanks a ton! Tried to rep you but I still can't, sorry.
I ended up going with the replacement idler from Jegs. Belt is routed the same and the belt is the original 102" long.
The biggest difference I noticed was how much more quiet this set up is. Thanks again for those who chimed in to help.
On to the next problem. Coolant leak at oil filter adapter/oil cooler thing. It's the next part to be recycled.
CS45
The biggest difference I noticed was how much more quiet this set up is. Thanks again for those who chimed in to help.
On to the next problem. Coolant leak at oil filter adapter/oil cooler thing. It's the next part to be recycled.
CS45
[QUOTE=White Max;10213486]I didn't realize how difficult it would be to get a clear pic with the huge factory fan shroud in the way. Hopefully this helps.
White Max has the solution. See the pictures ealier in this thread. This worked for me on a '96 E-350 w/ 5.8 351W. Tensioner mounted on the side. Belt length (after some experimentation) turned out to be 97.5". Some users might have "belt flap" issues at high rpm. This truck is a stock, low rpm hauler for me. Save yourself the $60 for the eliminator bracket if you can. Thanks for "The Solution" to the smog pump issue White Max.
White Max has the solution. See the pictures ealier in this thread. This worked for me on a '96 E-350 w/ 5.8 351W. Tensioner mounted on the side. Belt length (after some experimentation) turned out to be 97.5". Some users might have "belt flap" issues at high rpm. This truck is a stock, low rpm hauler for me. Save yourself the $60 for the eliminator bracket if you can. Thanks for "The Solution" to the smog pump issue White Max.
new answer
using the stock belt of bronco 5.0 xl 1995
removing the air pump pulley
View image: NUEVA POSICION DE LA BANDA
removing the air pump pulley
View image: NUEVA POSICION DE LA BANDA
IIRC, a '92 has the upper tensioner FEAD arrangement, doesn't it? If so, you're golden.




