Hey guys,
I just got a call from the machine shop that my head is clean, mangafluxed, bead blasted, and crack checked... They said the head was good but the valve guides are all wore out, they also said my valve stems were wore down?????? Does this normally happen on valve stems?

Anyway they also said my rockers were all wore out, springs too.. I already have new springs and keepers that come with my kit. So now I am wondering what rockers and valves to get???? Any part numbers/brands to suggest???? Can I reuse my old valve spring retainers? I am going to have them put screw in studs in since I am changing cam and lifters to the 260H kit.

Since I am getting new valves do I need to pay for a 3angle valve job? I am guessing a 30* cut back isn't stock. Can I get a lapping tool and just do the valves myself since they will be new? I was watching HorsePower the last week and they showed how to lap valves, P&P, and even how to put in your own screw in studs! I'm just not sure if I can do new valve guides myself... I don't know how much I am going to have the machine shop do... I'm considering buying the tools and doing the valve lapping and screw in studs myself along with the P&P work.

Would it be ok if I bought a new head with good valves and rockers? Melling has intake V1505 for $12each and exhaust V1504 for $13each. That's $150 just for new valves!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And compcams rocker arms are $130!!! Seems like buying a low milage head might be worth it for the parts...

Any thoughts????? AB, F250, Dusty... Anybody...

 

When I had my old head checked a little while back, the guides were completely worn out. The guy said it was because the rockers were worn, which pushed on the valve tips at a wrong angle. The pushing on the wrong angle pressed the sides of the valve stems into the guides, and wore the valve stems out. It's all connected.

When I was going to get stock rocker arms, this is the deal I was going to go with:

65-84 240 300 L6 FORD F150 F250 E150 NEW ROCKER ARMS - eBay (item 220765208346 end time Apr-12-11 10:59:38 PDT)

Much, much cheaper than anywhere else.

I was also told that the problem with doing screw in rocker arm studs yourself is that it's very difficult to get them perfectly straight. It's precision work. Sure, you can get the tap in, and the threads, and stuff, but if the stud itself is off angle by even a couple degrees, I imagine it'd wear stuff out pretty fast.

Screw in rocker arm studs are definitely a better way to go, but from what I've read and have been told, the stock studs are just fine for the 260. Someone may way otherwise.


Try shopping around for valves. I know rockauto.com has them for about $5 - $8 a piece. Even Autozone has them for $7.50 each.


As for the valve spring retainers, I reused mine. The valve KEEPERS, on the other hand, you definitely want to go new on those. Don't ever reuse keepers.
I couldn't even find a place that sold the retainers.

 

I'll take a look at rock auto for the valves. It looks like the ebay kit has new retainers...

So the remaining question is whether I need a 3 angle valve job with new valves???? Or can i just lap them myself and be good?

I am guessing the 30* angle cut back would need to be done by the machine shop but I don't know how much we have in the budget for this. I might check the 86 head first to see if the valves and rocker arms are good. Supposedly the head was rebuilt at the same time as the engine 40-50K ago...

I know the studs are a teadious job but you just have to have a sturdy bench without any wobbles. Then mount a drill press and level your head on the deck. Shave down the towers with special bit, then drill out and retap for threads... I'll probably take the easy way out and buy all the parts cheap and have the stud work, 30* angle valve cuts,etc done by the machine shop.

How easy are putting in valve guides???? can I do that myself????

 

I know you are on a budget. But sometimes it is better to pay a bit more and get quality than to go the cheap route and have to pay twice.

A lot of the crap on ebay is inexpensive because it is made in China. I have lived in the Third World, and a lot of quality control gets lost in translation. Why would you take a chance with parts that are under stress for thousands of hours. If you buy quality you never have to worry. Chances are that if you buy cheap, you'll have time to think over how you'll do it differently as you walk home.

Have a shop do the guides and studs. You need the springs that Comp says to use with that cam. Different cams require specific psi at the valve, so don't just buy any springs. The manufacturer of the spring will have a specific installed height, and seat psi. Your machinist needs to ck that. Chances are if your rockers/springs/guides are shot, so are your p.rods.

Good luck.

 

If you need new valves, you need to have the seats reground, which means the new valves will have to be ground to match. valve guides wear, as do the sides of the valves, so replacement is going to happen. screw in studs should be done at a shop that has a mill, so they will be perfectly straight. you can tap them if you want, but that's only 1 step, and probably won't save much money there, because the mill has the tapper already set to correct depth, and is just another step in the machining process.
No, you can't put in your own valve guides, you need a mill to remove them, a press to set them, and a reamer to fit the new valve, and the skill to know when to stop reaming them, or they will be as sloppy as if you never replaced them.
Buying a rebuilt generic head will give you that. a generic head. If you are going with a custom head, it is best to start from the bottom and work your way to the top, building the head to what you want.
It is very expensive to do custom machine work, but so is everything else. Price a set of braces for your teeeth for example, and that will give you an idea. The equipment to do all this work costs money, so that gets passed down to the consumer.

 

I have a 83 I6 and a 86 I6... The 86 head might have good parts in it still, but I guess I really don't know the condition of those parts. The truck isn't running now... should I pull the other head to see if it would be cheaper to rebuild that one? Or just keep going with this one? I'll roll my P-rods on glass to find 12 good ones... Can I mix and match p-rods between the two motors as long as they are straight?

F250... No worries on the springs. I bought the kit like I was told earlier that came with lifters, cam, timing set, springs and keepers. Is there a way I can find the install height and seat psi myself so I can provide that to the guy doing the head work????

Here is a pic of the head all cleaned up! P&P work and pictures to come shortly... But I might put those back on my P&P work post.

 

Coming along nicely. The 2 heads are the same unless you have a later model head for the 86, then that would have plugs where the air tube goes in 87 up heads. If you have that one, it has lean burn combustion chambers, and would raise the compression. Roll the push rods on glass to be sure they're straight, and check out the ends for wear. they should be ok. be sure to clean them inside, and out. Your valves in the picture are worn, you see the stain on the sides, if you look in a magnifying glass at them, you will see that the stain is actually scratches. Did you say you have a p&p post? I somehow missed that.

 

huh... I thought I had another thread started but that may be a figment of my imagination. Maybe I just remember you telling me to post pics in one of my other threads... Either way I might just start a P&P thread so i can post all my pics...

 

F250... No worries on the springs. I bought the kit like I was told earlier that came with lifters, cam, timing set, springs and keepers. Is there a way I can find the install height and seat psi myself so I can provide that to the guy doing the head work????

I would go on Comp's site and find the info. If it is not there, and I'd be surprised is not, I call their tech line.

It looks real nice so far. For your valves, as another member mentioned, Rock Auto is great. Sometimes you can find a close out for half price.

I read a good post on porting the 4.9 head last night. The guy mentioned to be very careful when cleaning up the bowls, and to use a stone as opposed to a carbide bit, because the stone cuts slower. You don't want to hit water. Harbor Freight has packs of sanding cylinders for about $20. You can use those to clean up the runners.



There is a drawing of how to cut the intake valves for better performance.

Also, be aware that Ford IIRC changed the valve lengths at some point, so be sure to get the correct year/length.

 

Just talked with the guy doing the work... He says all parts are standard size so I am going to order my rockers, valves, and maybe push rods... If the P-rods are shipping from the same place it would especially make them a cheap no-brainer! I'll probably be back in 30 mins with the parts list I ordered!

 

need help again guys... What kind of rocker studs do I need??? The local machine shop is expensive for parts and told me I could bring my own parts. Don't know what kind of studs I would need though...??? He says, "People usually use ARP and they run around $40." what size would I want? length? anyone have some part numbers and/or links???

 

Negatory......You were about ANOTHER 30 minutes off...

-Wes

 

pm Kevin..... F-250 restorer, he's already done the swap, and can give you all the part #'s.

 

Dusty, doesn't that head originally have rocker bolts?

I forgot to mention, there is a site, IIRC headbolts.com, who have a lot of goodies for our engines. They may be a good source for those studs.

 

the head he has pictured has push in studs on it. the 86 he has will have the ped mount rockers like mine.