Sloppy steering causes?
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Sloppy steering causes?
I've had a lot of these old fords over the years and have yet to get one that didn't have sloppy steering. The last one I had I even put a crossover kit on and still was not happy with the results. I recently bought a 79 f150 swb 4x4. I am determined on this truck to get in where I feel comfortable driving it on the highway.
Now upfront, I know the truck needs a drag link and tie rods. But, in your guys opinions where does most of the slop in these old trucks come from? Steering shaft? Gear box?
Also, the truck is lifte 4 inches with 33's. Do I need to buy an adjustable draglink or will the stock steering kit from broncograveyard for $190 do the trick? The truck appears to have the stock steering setup on it now and works fine other than sloppy.
Thanks all,
Kyle
Now upfront, I know the truck needs a drag link and tie rods. But, in your guys opinions where does most of the slop in these old trucks come from? Steering shaft? Gear box?
Also, the truck is lifte 4 inches with 33's. Do I need to buy an adjustable draglink or will the stock steering kit from broncograveyard for $190 do the trick? The truck appears to have the stock steering setup on it now and works fine other than sloppy.
Thanks all,
Kyle
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Steering wander: Worn suspension parts: Draglink, inner tie rods, outer tie rod ends, front wheel bearings, ball joints, king pins / Mis-aligned front end, under/over inflated tires or mis-matched tires, bent wheel(s),
Manual & Power Assist (4WD) gearbox: Worn steering shaft/worm and/or its bearings and cups, sector shaft and/or its bushings.
Power Assist P/S Control Valve: There are two types, one (Garrison) has two short draglinks, t'other (Bendix) has one.
The Control Valve's ball stud that connects the draglink to the Pitman Arm is a POS, goes south quickly, especially if oversized tires are present.
Power Assist P/S: The rubber bushings that attach the Ram deteriote, age crack, get soaked with oil and grease.
Ford integral P/S gearbox: Spool valve, worn input shaft bearings; snap rings and washers. All these integral P/S gearboxes have a built in FLAW...no sector shaft bushings or bearings.
Manual & Power Assist (4WD) gearbox: Worn steering shaft/worm and/or its bearings and cups, sector shaft and/or its bushings.
Power Assist P/S Control Valve: There are two types, one (Garrison) has two short draglinks, t'other (Bendix) has one.
The Control Valve's ball stud that connects the draglink to the Pitman Arm is a POS, goes south quickly, especially if oversized tires are present.
Power Assist P/S: The rubber bushings that attach the Ram deteriote, age crack, get soaked with oil and grease.
Ford integral P/S gearbox: Spool valve, worn input shaft bearings; snap rings and washers. All these integral P/S gearboxes have a built in FLAW...no sector shaft bushings or bearings.
Post Fiend
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From: Big Sky Country
EDIT: was typing as ND posted.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
ND forgotabout the rag joint, and the U-joint that was used thru 1975 w/the 4WD's steering shaft and couplers.1967/75 4WD steering shaft & couplers are composed of over 20 parts. 1976/79: The steering shaft & coupler is a one piece assembly.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Ideeho
Also, dont forget worn track arm bushings, radius arm bushings, C bushings and rear spring bushings...................loose wheel bearings and steering gear adjustment. Worn out front springs will throw the caster off which will make them wander. Incorrect camber and toe in as well. Replace all the worn out parts and find a GOOD 4x4 alignment shop..............In the process of doing all of the above to my current 78 F150 4x4. Did all of the above to my previous '77 F150 and it made a world of difference.
Elder User
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From: Cascade, ID
True Cross-over steering, dropped track bar bracket so that track bar angle and drag link are at the same angle. Make sure your toe is set correctly. Radius arm drop brackets and degree'd C bushings. I run the dropped brackets for a 4" lift and also run the 7 degree C bushings. It drives better than most new pickups. Get a rebuilt steering box if there is slack there. Another area of problem on these is the track bar bushings, if they have any slop in them at all they will drive like crap.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Lynchburg, VA
My truck has alot of slop in the joint connecting the tie rod & pitman arm. Id assume people didnt grease the joints like they were supposed to.
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That gives me a lot to look at. I know the PO appears to have replaced a lot of the bushings. I guess I will go down the list of suggestions here and replace the parts that appear to be questionable and see what happens.
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My truck, '78 F150 4x4 w/PS has a lot of slop in the steering, but doesn't really wander. If I point it straight, it goes straight until I have to turn again, or once in a while under braking.
I've replaced the drag link and track bar. The track bar helped a TON, but didn't completely fix it. I don't think it's the rag joint; I'm thinking either steering box, or front radius arm bushings. Not sure which I'd rather it be at this point, nor how to test it. I tried tightening the steering box, but all that accomplished was to keep the tires from turning as far as they should.
I've replaced the drag link and track bar. The track bar helped a TON, but didn't completely fix it. I don't think it's the rag joint; I'm thinking either steering box, or front radius arm bushings. Not sure which I'd rather it be at this point, nor how to test it. I tried tightening the steering box, but all that accomplished was to keep the tires from turning as far as they should.
Elder User
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From: Cascade, ID
Trackbar
Also, make sure the trackbar bolt hole is tight, any slop in this connection will make it feel loose also. If you have a lot of miles on your truck, it is possible that the hole in the bracket is worn.
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Good call, I went back out and had my wife turn the wheel while I watched it, that's where the play is coming from. I just replaced those bushings, but not the track bar. Any way to stop that?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Ideeho
I just picked up all the rubber bushings for my truck today. Got them from the local parts house.
Good quality replacements. I got the track bar bushings, radius arm bushings, C bushings, all the rear spring bushings AND a set of new front coil springs for just under $200. So its not that expensive to rebush everything. The springs alone were $98................ Should drive like a new one after this weekend (-:
Good quality replacements. I got the track bar bushings, radius arm bushings, C bushings, all the rear spring bushings AND a set of new front coil springs for just under $200. So its not that expensive to rebush everything. The springs alone were $98................ Should drive like a new one after this weekend (-:
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Just an update.... Went ahead and replaced both tie rods and the draglink. I also added a 4 inch drop pitman arm since the PO never had one on it when it was lifted. The truck seems to wander more than before, but I'm pretty sure that is due to the fact that I have messed the alignment up. I'm hoping to take it down to the aligment shop and have them check it over and if all is in good shape see what happens.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2011
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keep us updated on this as it progresses! I know I've got some wander and slop in my truck, but I haven't been able to tell if it's just my balloon tires or if there's a lot of slop in the steering system, so i'll be interested to see what you guys come up with!
thanks!
Ethan
thanks!
Ethan