Sloppy steering causes?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 172
Likes: 3
From: Australia
so much slop
finding this site was the best thing.
I to have been hit with sloppy wheel. Seeing a wheel aline man soon having bush's replaced does anyone have a round about price so I don't get ripped off 
I to have been hit with sloppy wheel. Seeing a wheel aline man soon having bush's replaced does anyone have a round about price so I don't get ripped off
Last edited by myutesux; Jun 20, 2011 at 08:43 AM. Reason: spelling
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 248
Likes: 1
From: Farmington, New Mexico
Have someone in the cab to turn steering wheel back and forth in "small" increments, while you start watching everything that moves begining where the steering shaft comes thru the fire wall. Follow every moving part until you see something that isn't moving as much as the next upstream part is moving.
My 78 has crossover steering and was driving like a new truck until one day it wasn't...
Found a loose set screw on the upper u-joint on the steering shaft! She's all good again now and drives like a new truck!
My 78 has crossover steering and was driving like a new truck until one day it wasn't...
Found a loose set screw on the upper u-joint on the steering shaft! She's all good again now and drives like a new truck!
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,808
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Just an update.... Went ahead and replaced both tie rods and the draglink. I also added a 4 inch drop pitman arm since the PO never had one on it when it was lifted. The truck seems to wander more than before, but I'm pretty sure that is due to the fact that I have messed the alignment up. I'm hoping to take it down to the aligment shop and have them check it over and if all is in good shape see what happens.
You want the track arm and drag link as near parallel (like at same angle) with each other as possible so the arcs they swing through on dips and rolls are nearly the same as possible .... otherwise it'll bump steer.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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Hey, thanks for the advice! Luckily, the truck already had the trac bar drop bracket. Not sure why they never bothered with the drop pitman arm.
I had a buddy turn the wheel on mine. I'm not the most trained eye on this sort of thing, but the abnormal movement I had before is gone now that I have replaced the tie rods and draglink. I'm debating about doing all new bushing before I get it aligned. They all look to be in good shape, but its hard telling. I just have a hard time trusting any alignment shop. I always leave disappointed or feeling ripped off. The last guy I went to on a different old ford basically told me this was as good as it gets and that truck may have been worse than I have now.
I had a buddy turn the wheel on mine. I'm not the most trained eye on this sort of thing, but the abnormal movement I had before is gone now that I have replaced the tie rods and draglink. I'm debating about doing all new bushing before I get it aligned. They all look to be in good shape, but its hard telling. I just have a hard time trusting any alignment shop. I always leave disappointed or feeling ripped off. The last guy I went to on a different old ford basically told me this was as good as it gets and that truck may have been worse than I have now.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,808
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Once you have the right combo of C-bushings or drop brackets for the radius arms, the castor is set.
The only thing an alignment shop will adjust is toe in or set the steering wheel straight .... unless you decide to try get different camber numbers with those beveled shims?
The only thing an alignment shop will adjust is toe in or set the steering wheel straight .... unless you decide to try get different camber numbers with those beveled shims?
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 475
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Well... Got it back... They said the toe was way off the charts. They also tightened the gear box. Drives a lot better. But, still not happy. Even the guy at the dealership commented that its impossible to get these old trucks to not wonder.
Not sure what to do next? Any suggestions? Obviously, the gear box could stand to be replaced if it has been tightened. But, that would would me another 200 to 400 depending on what I end up with. That does not bother me if I knew I would get the desired results. I'm afraid to dump too much more money into it.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions on what to look at next!
Not sure what to do next? Any suggestions? Obviously, the gear box could stand to be replaced if it has been tightened. But, that would would me another 200 to 400 depending on what I end up with. That does not bother me if I knew I would get the desired results. I'm afraid to dump too much more money into it.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions on what to look at next!
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,808
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
I suppose I once noticed the small amount of wander "built in", it certainly never ever was like the rack and pinion steering on my '07 !
You adapt with practice and miles and smiles.
You adapt with practice and miles and smiles.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
I was reading that very few of the 'rebuilt' steering boxes are actually brought up to oem specs. It seems they just replace seals, usually, and leave it at that. You might want to google a co. called Redhead for the s.box.
I would look at the Pittman arm, and the steering column too.
I would look at the Pittman arm, and the steering column too.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,808
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Even when brand new, these steering boxes will have some play at center while showing no slack in the left and right positions. 1 t0 1-1/2" play in the steering whjeel straight ahead is normal in my experience. If you eliminate all slack in straight ahead, you put the gear in a real bind at 10-15 degrees left or right and you will greatly accelerate wear ....
There is a correct way to do it off the truck, then there is the other way which is a guess and a gamble. My guess is that more are worn out after over adjustment than are worn from use.
I'm just saying ... research it before you risk a "not cheap" Ford 4x4 steering box.
There is a correct way to do it off the truck, then there is the other way which is a guess and a gamble. My guess is that more are worn out after over adjustment than are worn from use.
I'm just saying ... research it before you risk a "not cheap" Ford 4x4 steering box.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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Tie rods, draglink, and pitman arm are all brand new. What about the steering column?
A few new leaks have showed up on the truck. It will probably be off the road till I have the time to fix them. Once fixed, I will start driving it more and maybe I can explain the wandering in more detail.
A few new leaks have showed up on the truck. It will probably be off the road till I have the time to fix them. Once fixed, I will start driving it more and maybe I can explain the wandering in more detail.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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Another thing I might add, not sure if this would cause any issues... But, at some point the PO put on a small aftermarket steering wheel vs the big oem one. I am not sure if that would make any difference, but it may be worth mentioning.
I also noticed that my front tires were worn more on the outside than the middle and the inside. I did just have it aligned so maybe that is fixed.
I also noticed that my front tires were worn more on the outside than the middle and the inside. I did just have it aligned so maybe that is fixed.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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An update. The steering appears tight. Having a friend moving the steering wheel I see no movement. But, the truck still seems to wander. Considering buying a new box and rag joint just to see if that helps, but not sure thats the problem area.