56 Noob needs help
#16
so true
YEP YEP YEP so true But no fun to be had. late nights looking up parts online/no sleep cause you can't figurer it out/busted up hands. YALL GET THE PIC. LOL
#17
Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your project. If you're getting a good frame with good sheet metal, you're way ahead of the game. There's certainly nothing wrong with the original frame in it's stock form. There's not a whole lot you can do to a 302 that will break it. You'd have to be pushing in excess of 450 hp and lots of torque before I'd start worrying about a custom, racing-type frame.
I'm a firm believer in the MII kit concept as a good update on the front suspension. If you stick with a reputiple company, and install it correctly, you can't go wrong. They are well engineered and plenty strong. For a 56, I recommend Heidts Superide II.
Heidts Hot Rod & Muscle Car Parts - HEIDTS Superide II Truck - Complete Package
If you want smooth, add a 4 link rear suspension and air bags all around. It'll be like riding on a cloud.
So, my advice would be to save your money on the custom chassis, utilize what you have and build it the way you want.
I'm a firm believer in the MII kit concept as a good update on the front suspension. If you stick with a reputiple company, and install it correctly, you can't go wrong. They are well engineered and plenty strong. For a 56, I recommend Heidts Superide II.
Heidts Hot Rod & Muscle Car Parts - HEIDTS Superide II Truck - Complete Package
If you want smooth, add a 4 link rear suspension and air bags all around. It'll be like riding on a cloud.
So, my advice would be to save your money on the custom chassis, utilize what you have and build it the way you want.
#18
Yes sir build it not buy it is my motto. Plus what fun is there when talking about your pride and joy and not knowing how things fit together and having the story of busting you knuckles and loosing your temper when this parts wouldn't fit.
#19
Thanks for the advice and that is what I was leaning towards doing but wasn't sure what amount of horsepower these OEM frames could take. They're really just channel and not meant to take the power of a stroked high torque engine. Also you think the air ride is the best???? I was going to go with Bilstein shocks with a coil over front and rear but had been interested in the air ride. I have the Trucks! Project Old Skool DVD and they use an air ride but had to cut the inner fenders to make enough clearance for the bags to drop and I didn't want to get into to much cutting if necessary.
#20
Thanks for the advice and that is what I was leaning towards doing but wasn't sure what amount of horsepower these OEM frames could take. They're really just channel and not meant to take the power of a stroked high torque engine. Also you think the air ride is the best???? I was going to go with Bilstein shocks with a coil over front and rear but had been interested in the air ride. I have the Trucks! Project Old Skool DVD and they use an air ride but had to cut the inner fenders to make enough clearance for the bags to drop and I didn't want to get into to much cutting if necessary.
Sam
#21
#22
Tardster,
So your saying rather than keep my original frame and boxing in the front you had rather go with an after market frame. I was thinking about using a Fatman fabrications frame with a few bells and whistles added to it, but that is why I'm asking everyone what they did and if they would change. I want to spend my cash in the best way possible and get the most out of it. That's why I didn't just buy a finished 56 and repaint it to my liking, because why spend 26-28k on a truck with a 2-3 yr old paint and interior just to have it all redone because I don't like it. I work hard for my cash so I want to stretch it as far as possible and anything on this truck needs to be well though out in advance.
Thanks for the info guys keep it going.
So your saying rather than keep my original frame and boxing in the front you had rather go with an after market frame. I was thinking about using a Fatman fabrications frame with a few bells and whistles added to it, but that is why I'm asking everyone what they did and if they would change. I want to spend my cash in the best way possible and get the most out of it. That's why I didn't just buy a finished 56 and repaint it to my liking, because why spend 26-28k on a truck with a 2-3 yr old paint and interior just to have it all redone because I don't like it. I work hard for my cash so I want to stretch it as far as possible and anything on this truck needs to be well though out in advance.
Thanks for the info guys keep it going.
#23
Hi Dozer - One of the things I struggled with during the restoration of
my 1950 F1 was when you start replacing big chunks of the truck when does it stop being a 1950 truck? I altered plans a bit in the middle to
save the Frame, the Cab, & the Bed so I can say it's a 1950. I kind of wish I had retained the firewall as well -It's all purely personal preference but when I look at the truck I wanted it to say 1950 not 2011. It's a fine line & may not be important to you but it's something to consider - You can definitely replace everything with brand new but then what do you have?
Ben in Austin
my 1950 F1 was when you start replacing big chunks of the truck when does it stop being a 1950 truck? I altered plans a bit in the middle to
save the Frame, the Cab, & the Bed so I can say it's a 1950. I kind of wish I had retained the firewall as well -It's all purely personal preference but when I look at the truck I wanted it to say 1950 not 2011. It's a fine line & may not be important to you but it's something to consider - You can definitely replace everything with brand new but then what do you have?
Ben in Austin
#24
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SHARKS22
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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07-01-2011 03:37 PM