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My kids were home from school for Spring Break....I managed to get some help on some heavy lifting. I had received my new bed from Northern Classic Truck. I painted the individual parts & did the assembly last week.
Here are some pics:
Painted parts
Henry Ford would be proud....we actually riveted the bed sides to the bed front....I did use Hi-Shear rivets which probably weren't around in 1952!
Here's the assembled box....
I'm waiting for the pads that go between the box and the frame....I'll post more pics after I have it on the frame.
What type of wood is that? It seems a tad lighter than White Oak. I'm trying to find the whitest wood possible to match my green as well. Yours looks great.
The boards are oak. Some were really white and a couple have a red tinge. The varnish brings out the color a little. Here's another view that I snapped before all of the bolts were in:
Here's a better shot of the color variations before I had any finish on at all. They all seem to blend together in the assembled bed. The green is "Rock Moss Green"....a nice single stage acrylic urethane.
Hi-Shear rivets are pins with a threaded end. The nut is a collar that screws on. You tighten the collar until the hex head part breaks off leaving only a low profile collar. The pins can be made out of a bunch of different materials (steel, titanium, stainless, aluminum, monel). The titanium pin and collar combinations are really expensive (around $50 each), but the steel ones are more reasonable (like $2 for the pin and $2 for the collar). The cool part about Hi-Shear is that they're designed to work in tension and shear....the steel 3/16 pins are good for around 2000# in either shear or tension. Four on each side should hang together even if the bed sees some twisting action.
I did a test for the Air Force several years ago to test corrosion on hundreds of riveted joint samples with exposure to runway de-icing chemicals. I had to buy just about every type of rivet ever used on an airplane, so I had a bunch of left-over Hi-Shear parts.
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