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I currently have a 87 F150 302 2wd with a C6 trans. The reason I am looking for a motor is when it has hit normal operating temp the oil pressure drops flat on its face when at normal idle unless I give it gas and bring the RPM up to about 900-1000 when at a complete stop. I was told this may be the oil pump or the crank bearings. When the truck sits overnight or a few days and I start it up it does have a 2 second knock too, I was told this is know as the "Ford Knock" and that it is common. Sounds like someone hitting the side of the motor with a hammer, not a slight tap. Truck only has 100,700 miles to it but I purchased the truck 700 miles ago and it started doing this a week after I bought it and the PO was running Frame filters on it too.
I don't have the time or a lot of money to rebuild/buy a new motor. Since it is a daily driver I figured it would be better to probably just drop a motor in from Craigslist that I can listen to run and visually inspect first.
My question is, is there a certain year that I need to stick with? I am looking at a 302 from a 1993 Bronco with 85,000 miles on it. He says that it is pulled out of the truck already but was a very strong running motor. Will the C6 bolt to this, is there anything I need to look at since I cannot test the motor? Any help and tips would be appreciated.
Might as well replace the oil pump and oil pan gasket while it's on an engine stand. Used engines are always a hit or miss proposition. Frankly, I'd rather buy one that's still in the vehicle I could hear run if it's not going to the engine builder to be freshened up.
Yea I myself would rather buy one that is still in the vehicle also but it seems like I may not have to many options. I do have a new Mellings oil pump, screen, and Felpro one piece gasket all still in the box I was going to stick on my motor in the truck but would rather stick it on the motor that would be going in the truck. Would probably replace the rear main seal while I was at it too so I knew that would be fresh and wouldn't have to mess with that later. I was thinking of asking the guy to drop the oil pan on the motor to inspect the bearings to see if they have any copper showing.
It might cost you a few bucks but I would drop the pan on your current engine and check the rod & main bearings first before replaceing the engine. If the crank and/or rod bearings are worn but the crank is not scored you may be able to just install new bearings, oil pump, and a pan gasket and get a few more miles out of that engine for as little as $100 bucks. If you keep if long enough you will need to rebuild/replace that engine but this wil put that day off for a while.
I did this with two other engines, both were Chevys and they both ran fine for 3-4 years more before being sold.
Something that I forgot to mention in the post that would have probably been useful. When I did the oil change on this motor I found metal shavings in the oil and on the dipstick. When I first saw it on the dipstick they were very minute I didn't think anything of it at first but when I drained the oil and started to catch some in my hand I could feel the metal chunks in my hand. Some ranged up to the size of sea salt. I was told this could be the oil pump in very bad shape but more than likely the bearings. Sorry that I left that out since I was more set on just replacing the motor.