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Depends on what you're going to use the engine for, 0.030"
would be my personal limit for the 302/5.0L for racing/towing,
while 0.040" over would be my limit for a mild street cruiser,
and yes, 0.010" can make all the difference in the world when
you're loading an engine heavily... bad things happen when the
block starts to deform, heads move, and intakes twist...
Most shops bore up to .060 over without problems or sonic shecks.
351W strokers go to 4.150 bores (stock 4.00), 460s to 4.485 (stock 4.36).
If you're going to put some money in the engine, have the block sonic checked for about $70. That'll tell you the exact thickness of your cylinder walls top to bottom.
I have heard that +.060 was the most a 300-6 would go. That was good for me 'cause my builder was already at +.040. Unless you're building a fire breather, going with the minimum ( usually whatever the machine shop says) gives you the POSSIBLE option of doing it again (and maybe again). There is nothing more comfortable than boring (or reboring) a block that has performed well for you for years and tens/hundreds of thousands of miles. You will know if you've taken care of it - something which is always a question with a junkyard block. I did bore a chebby 283 out +.120 one time (fire breather) it ran up to 8500 rpms off and on for about 35,000 miles (hotter engine=shorter life) but it was a kick while it lasted! My 300-6 (+.060) has 20k miles on a rebuild and is running like a top. I expect to get 150k+ from it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.