Just bought a nice 2006 F-350 DRW and I've been slowing going thru it every weekend to make sure it's right. Yesterday I was addressing the front wheel bearings (2WD) and when I went to remove the right front wheel, the bugger was stuck to the hub. I soaked, I beat, I cussed and I still can not get the wheel loose from the hub (and yes, I have taken the lugnuts off!).
This truck lived in Michigan and the underside, while not totally nasty, does show signs of surface rust/corrosion on much of the un-plated parts and fasteners.
I can't just go get a bigger hammer and beat the thing till I'm blue because it has the nice polished aluminum wheels on it. I did loosen all the lugnuts 1/2 turn or so and drove it up and down the drive a few times, turning the steering wheel left and right repetitively but still stuck like cement.
Has anyone had this issue and what did you do to seperate the two?
BTW, I was able to remove the caliper and mounting bracket right along with the hub/rotor as it sides off right past the dust sheild.

 

My "new" f250 had one of the fronts rusted to the hub. I ended up soaking it with PB Blaster through the lug holes, let it sit for an hour, then tapped the inner face of the tire (not the rim) with the flat of an 8# sledge. It finally came loose...

 

I agree with the sledge on the tire trick. I typically turn the tire "in" (turn left on the right tire, right on the left tire) to give myself a little extra room to move. I know it is common sense, but don't stand behind where the hammer will bounce back to. It comes back in a hurry and you don't want to be there when it swings through.

You can leave your lugs on loosely so that the wheel doesn't drop off uncontrolled, but more than the half a turn from the driving method. Once it finally "breaks" free, it can all be done by hand.

 

I just experienced this problem on my truck on the rear tires. I soaked the edge of where the wheel goes around the axle as well as around each lug with PB Blaster....let it sit for a few minutes. I left the lugs on a few turns to catch the tire if it popped off....then I just dropped the truck to the ground twice with the floor jack...and the tire came loose.

I could see a crusty corroded edge all around the axle where the rim contacts it.....so I coated that area with anti-seize so it won't happen again.

It would ruin your day if you had a flat tire and couldn't get the tire off. It is much better to address this issue while sitting in your driveway where you have access to tools.

 

Another method that works well is to loosen each lugnut about a full turn. Then back the truck up about 3 feet and hit the brakes. Do the same in the forward direction.

If you don't want to do the back-and-forth method, try loosening the lug nuts and turning the wheels lock-to-lock with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels. This should bust the rims loose.

This has worked every time so far. A liberal coating of anti-sieze usually prevents this from happening again.

Lou Braun.

 

Just an update on the wheel situation. I did finally get it off. I had talked to a few class 8 truck mechanics hoping to some ideas. Several of them said "Just beat on it till it comes off." Smart guys heh? But one fellow told me he has uses a port-a-power to 'push' a stuck wheel off of the hub. He told me he sets it up to push on the rim edge (using some wood blocks so as not to damage the wheel) from one side to the other.
So while I'm chewing this up in my mind that works ever so slow, I'm thinking that I need to be able to push/pull sideways on the wheel. When I got home that night, I noticed the pole sunk in the ground to protect my gas meter in the corner of my driveway. I eyed the thing real good and then moved the truck right up next to it. I had some 2" tiedown straps in the garage and so I get the oldest one and loop it around the pole and then thru the windows on the wheel (the edge of the aluminum wheel is kinda sharp so don't waste a new one on this). I loosened the lugs a few turns and proceded to tighten the strap down as hard as I could. Got a very high pitched "BINK" as a result. So I tighten some more but nothing. Then I realize that I need to rotate the wheel 180 degrees, employing the wiggle method. Jack up the truck, spin the tire, drop it down, and pull the strap tight again, "BINK", NOW I'm getting somewhere. I keep going, rotating the wheel after every pull, and after about 6 or 7 pulls I have the wheel loose. Yes, lots of corrosion behind the wheel so that all gets degreased and sanded clean. I didn't have any anti-seize on hand but did use some w/b grease to lightly coat the hub surface to prevent said corrision from returning.
I hope this helps others who may run into the same problem. If you have the need to employ this method of wheel removal, please be safe and think it out.

 

This happens alot on Super Duties. I rotated my tires a couple times and mine stick but not too bad. We just put air bags on my buddy's 08 and had a helluva time getting the wheels off. address it now before you get a flat on the side of the road!

 

Hi Guys,

Same problem as everyone else here. DRW Aluminum rims, 2003, don't know how long the wheels have been on. Rears will not come off. I tried the rolling slowly and hit the brake trick. I tried the BFH, though it's hard to get a good hit on the outer of the duallie. Where is it most likely seized, around the hub? Will the two rims separate easily when I get the outer one loose? I could try pulling with a strap, should I pull on both rims together? I soaked PB blaster into the lug holes and around the hub as best as I could. I tried heat from a torch, any other thoughts? Replace the rear azle?. Maybe soaking for a day might help it... Thanks for any ideas you have.

Steve

 

I rotated the tires on my truck this spring. I gave the wheels and hubs where the wheel contacts a good brushing with a wire brush and put a very thin coating of anti-seize on the contact surface of the hub before putting the wheels back on. Helps to prevent sticking. I've only ever saw that done once in my life and that was at the Ford dealer on my dads truck. I was impressed they took the time.

 

anti seize on the hubs and the wheel bore of the wheel everytime you take the wheels off will make this a non issue.

I've taken a sledge to a tire several times in order to effect loosening of a wheel before.

I'd be careful using penetrants (pb blaster etc) around brake rotors and pads unless you plan on changing them.