Ok, I have searched and been reading the suspension topics regarding sway bars, V/B springs, RAS, etc. To say I was overwhelmed & consfused was an understatement. However, I am learning a lot.
Last month I just bought an 05 Limited V10 4x4, 60k(now). I crawled underneath and discovered no sway bar. So thats ordered and will be here monday.

I will be towing a 30' Dutchmen travel trailer, GVWR=7,400. It usually weighs in around 6500-6700 for our trips. I use a Reese Dual Cam HP sway control. Hitch weight is hard with that trailer, its designed at barely 10%, I have been able to get it to about 13% (~700#). More would be better, but its tough with the layout (front bedroom) I put as much as I can up front when I load it. I even travel full of water to help put more hitchweight in there.

So this is what I am planning on suspension upgrades...
- I ordered a Hellwig sway bar and will be installing it this next weekend.
- I plan on adjusting the steering box also.
I read the instructions for the Hellwig sway bar and it seems to make sense to me. I heard the instructions arent the best but it seems to make sense to me. DOes anyone have any suggestions that would ease installation or expand on the instructions?

My next question is, RAS vs V/B Springs. Do I need to do both? I am not able to do it all at once. I need to spread it out for financial reasons. So in a couple weeks I will be able to do more, either RAS or V/B. I was thinking of doing the V/B springs next. Do you all think that would be enough? SHould I also do the RAS?
Should I do the springs before the RAS or RAS before springs.
Would the RAS be better to be done before the springs?
Could I do just the RAS and be ok without doing V/B Springs?

I am just not sure what the best way is to do this in steps & trying to find the line on what I NEED to do to be safe, and what is ..."overkil"...thats not the best word to use, but...

I just dont have unlimited funds to throw into this but yet I dont want to "cheap out". You know, not throw more money into it than I need to, but not spend too little at first and end up having to spend more in the long run to "re-fix" it.

Thanks,
Jim

 

According to those that have it installed on their rigs, the RAS helps solve the steering wander problem.

The V code, B code spring swap eliminates the reason for the wander.

RAS is cheaper, but in my opinion, the best way to eliminate the problem is to fix what causes it, the POS OEM springs.

I tow a 10k lb 31' travel trailer with zero problems.

When my wife and I decided to sell our 2-horse trailer and replace it with a 4-horse bumper-pull, to me it was a no-brainer to upgrade the springs. She was gonna be the one pulling the 4-horse with the kids, and my family's safety was my primary concern when it came to eliminating the wander.

Stewart

 

I have the V codes on the front and the RAS on the rear along with a Helwig sway bar. My TT is a pig weighing in at 9500lbs+. TT tows well now. I did it this way because of limited funds also. Got the RAS on ebay for $80 bucks and got the V codes for $30 from a friend. Its up to you how to proceed but I think you will be happier with your towing performance by upgrading the springs one way or the other. Good luck, John

 

I would vote for the V/modified B. Very happy with weight handling and unloaded ride quality. The price to do the V/B or RAS is probably about the same. The V/B solves the front springs sag/bump stop issue. My current trailer has 1300lbs tongue and I am only down 1.25" using the propride 1400 lb bars with the V/mod B springs. You would not need the RAS with the V/B.

 

Stew, I agree 120% on both your points: 1) eliminating the problem not the symptom & 2) the safety of the family. My wife wants to learn to tow the trailer. Right now I wouldnt feel comfortable with it.

Shadows4, I am definitley going to fix this. Thanks. for your input on your setup.

Red, I have found the price of the RAS about the same as the V/B mod also. Also that was one of my questions, I saw some folks had both, and wondered if I really need both.

Thanks guys for the input and making it clearer for me. Gonna go do some parts shopping.

The RAS is an easier fix, but I still agree with Stew about eliminating the problem. Right now I am thinking of going the V/B mod route.

Oh, also, are there any instructions here on the V/B spring mod? I have never changed springs before.

 

Here you go. By far the best instructions I have found. Hope this helps.

2000 Ford Excursion V-Code Leaf Spring Installation pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

 

cool. thanks. those are very detailed instructions.

Anyone have any time estimates on this project? For me, I'm thinking a good day just for for front & another day for the rear. So I guess it would be best to do the rear first just in case it takes all weekend and I don't have time to do the front.

 

HDBiker67 to echo advice already given i would try to do the V/B swap. It will really improve the load carrying ability and stability on the rear and give you some room on the bumpstops up front. Add in that new Hellwig and maybe some shocks and you will have corrected all the suspension issues Ford built into our trucks.
I just finished swapping in modded X / modded B codes on my '05 4X4 V10 and I'm not seeing anywhere near as much squat on the rear when dropping my 1250lb tounge toyhauler onto the hitch. I haven't had a chance to actually tow with it yet as I'm not finished reassembling my restored Hensley Arrow for it yet, hopefully this week. Having my wife drive the rig was also the major motivator for my swap as well as adding the Hensley hitch, I wanted it as stable and well behaved as possible. It was far from either in stock configuration.
I can attest to how much better it rides and handles with the higher rated springs, seems counter-intuitive but now it actually has room to compress the springs over our lovely post winter PA roads instead of bottoming out against the bumpstops all the time.
Where in SE PA are you?

 

HDbiker; when I replaced my springs I did all the work alone in about 8 hrs. Life will be way easier with someone helping you.
You will want to read up on that instructions thread and look for others. You will also need a 21 mm deep socket to get at the front bolts on the springs. You will also need longer u bolts for the rear if you modify the spring pack or add the larger block to the back.

 

I did my fronts first, only because I put in modded X codes and was unsure what to expect as far as lift, I wanted to see that before I made up the new B code packs for the rear to match the increase. Turned out just shy of 4" up front and about 4 1/8" in back. I did the fronts in an afternoon and evening with the help of my brother-in-law. Took the stock rears out on another evening with him and installed the new packs the next afternoon by myself, that was kinda hard working solo! Have a helper if possible, those rear packs are heavy!

 

Going back to your original post in this thread about mounting the Hellwig rear bar. Save yourself a trip under and back out, before you start the install drill out the holes in the new mounting plates so they are big enough to fit the supplied U-bolts through. Kind of silly for them to ship them out with the wrong size holes but thats how they come...... You may also want to coat the end link lower threads with anti-seize or grease after installation, mine were a little rusty after the winter and were more of a pain to remove because of it when doing the springs. They are coated now.

 

A excellent write up was provided for the front. The rear is simpler and takes about half as long as the front. Same basic concepts to remove the rear springs. For the B code modification you will be mixing the two smallest leafs from the Ex springs with the B codes.

For the B code mod:

Disassemble the Ex springs. Put C clamps on both sides of the center spring bolt. Remove center bolt. Loosen each C clamp alternating from side to side. Disassemble the B code spring in the same manor.

Take the B code spring and remove/replace all the spacers using the thicker Excursion spacers. Remove the bottom overload from the B code. Add the two smallest leafs from the Ex springs to the B code with spacers between them. Then put the B codes overload on last.

Put alignment pin in the center spring bolt hole (should not use the spring bolt as the threads will get damaged. I just use a 3/8" x 5" bolt I had laying around. Put the junk bolt through the hole. Then put C clamps on each side and tighten the C clamps alternating from side to side until the spring is fully compressed (keep everything lined up good).<O

Remove the junk alignment bolt and put in the new spring bolt (make sure you put the round head on the bottom of the spring so it can fit in the block correctly).<O

Tighten the spring bolt and remove the C clamps. <O

Finished and ready to install. The mod literally takes about 5 minutes per spring. Attached is a photo. <O

Sorry if the write up is confusing - hard to describe in words.

The modified B code should net about 1.5" of lift and the V codes up front about 1.75".

 

The instructions are good, but one major problem keeps them from being great.

When you get to this part:
"Unfortunately, the front leaf spring eye-bolts are not easy to get to, so you have to remove the corner bumper supports."

...ignore the instructions and just remove the front bumper, it'll save you a LOT of work. 4 bolts and the bumper is off.

Stewart

 

WOW! thanks for all the info guys. I really appreciate it. I have never tackled something like this. But I love a challenge and the satisfaction of finishing it.

I am pretty sure I will be doing the spring swap and I appreciate any more hints, tips, suggestions, what-have-you on this subject. I will still be searching and reading up on this more.

And for WE3ZS, I am in a little town called Red Hill, upper Montgomery County. About 30 miles north of you.

 

here is a pic of my X after the F350 rears springs:

and here is one with both sets of springs on her:


the spring swap was well worth it. i havent towed with the new springs yet id be surprised if it even leveled it out. i put the F350 rear springs on with the 3.75" blocks. this truck is nice to drive again.....

also i had to have the hellwig rsb end links extended to adjust for the extra lift. about 5" woth....