Ok...I have a 1976 Ford F-100 Custom 4X4. this evening I got into my truck and tried to start it, but she wouldn't turn over. this has happened before so I pushed my gear shifter (Automatic on the column) up into Park to seat it better. I heard a loud "snap" sound and I was able to start the engine. I had never heard the snapping sound before. I went to put her in reverse and back out of the garage, but the shifter was basically free floating and loose. It would not shift her into any gear. I got out and had my wife pull the shifter into gear while I looked at the linkage under the hood. Nothing moved. I'm thinking something broke off in the upper part of the steering column near the shifter. Is this common for these fords? Is this something they sell "top end column rebuild kits" for? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

It is common for the shift collar to crack and then it moves freely around the shaft. I have replaced mine twice on my 75 since I bought it back in 92. I think I bought the last one on ebay for about 20 bucks. Might be able to still get them at ford. I just checked at rockauto.com and they have the part for $16.32 and part number 83242. Ford part number D5TZ7228A. Under the Auto trans part Gear shift collar kit. It's been about 4 years but remember some of the stuff to do when you replace it. Remove the stearing wheel. You have to take the turn signal connector apart so you can remove it all the way. Remember siliconing some little bolts to a piece so I could get everything back together. Hope this helps.

 

D5TZ-7228-A (replaced C9TZ-7228-A & C5TZ-7228-A) .. A/T Shift Collar Kit / Available from Ford.

Fits: 1965/66 F100/250 / 1965/66 F350 (I-6 only) / 1967/77 F100/350.

Note: 1965/72: The pointer was made as part of the collar. 1973/77: The pointer is separate, made from plastic and slips into a slot in the collar.

The pointer (D3TZ-7A110-A-also available by itself) comes with the Ford kit, dunno about aftermarket.

 

Not meaning to hijack here but good to see you on NumberDummy..............got a question for you. Have you ever heard of a remote drivers side mirror for a Dent? I heard a rumor about one, but have never seen one..........

 

Thanks guys....I was hoping it was something easy. I'm gonna take it apart today. I'll let you know what I find.

 

And...there was a matching non remote right (passenger) side mirror: D3TZ-17696-L

These are similar to what 1967/79 Passenger Cars used, chrome with a squarish glass and hooded mirror. Were also available for 1967/72 F100/350's & 1966/72 Bronco's (but w/different part numbers).

The non remote, non hooded versions of these mirrors are the same as Passenger Cars (and are referred to by the idiotic name "Sport Mirrors" by repro parts sellers).

In fact, the left side (C7AZ-17696-A) was standard equipment on all 1967/79's, but...

No outside mirrors were installed at the factory, the dealers installed all the mirrors.

If the factory had installed the outside mirror(s) and the customer wanted something else, the holes in the door(s) would have to be filled in and then repainted.

D3TZ-17696-K & L = original applications: 1973/79: F100/350 & Bronco. The problem with these mirrors is...they are next to worthless for seeing anything out of.

btw: 1000's of the C7AZ-17696-A mirrors were THROWN AWAY by the dealers, because...every '67/79: F100/350, Bronco & misc Passenger Cars came with one, but next to no one wanted them.

One dealer I worked for had a 3' x 3' cardboard box full of them...all eventually went into the dipsy dumpster!

 

Gentlemen, I have the same issue. How do you get the wiring harness out of the way to remove the collar? It's attached to the turn signal mechanism on one end and has those big connectors at the bottom of the shaft. What am I over looking here?

 

You have to remove the plastic plug.
First make a chart where each wire is located. Then, IIRC. there is a red plastic wedge in the plug that you pry out.
Each little wire terminal has a plastic lock tab that keeps it in place. Take a small screw driver and pry the tab away from the terminal and then pull the wire out of the socket.

 

Thank you for the fast response. I just figure it out. Pretty simple actually once you make a chart

 

I may be a bit late here...make sure to tie a piece of wire (bailing wire, electric fence, etc.) to the lower end of the turn signal wires when you pull the switch. If you don't it will be very hard to get the wires back down the column.