do i need to remove the batteries and take them in to have them load tested. all i did was check the voltage with and without running. 14volts on 13 volts off posts are corroded. gonna clean them just cause they should be clean and check the ficm

 

cleaned the batterie posts and checked the voltage on theFICM. 48 volts with the key on and 48 while starting. now what?

 

back to the tech folder

 

I just had the EGR delete done on my 05 Excursion. What a difference in acceleration and improvement in turbo lag. I have an additional 50 horsepower and got rid of the engine check light with the SCT tuner. Prior to the change I used to get a significant turbo lag of about a second or second ana a half when I pressed the accelerator about halfway. Now when I press the accelerator there is a minimally appreciable turbo lag and a practically instantaneous acceleration. What a difference! To those who were in doubt of doing this upgrade reconsider and get additional feedback from others.

 

i have plans of doing the EGR delete kit but i wanna get it running good first. if i need to do injectors i will do it at that time.

so now i have run a oil flush through it then changed the oil, new fuel filters (both), checked the voltage on the ficm and cleaned the batterie posts.

I am still not sure if i tested the batteries right???????

So far i have just been doing maintenance, i plan on cleaning EGR valve and checking the fuel pressure.

does anyone have any advice?????

Has any one heard of heating the FICM with a heat gun????

 

I just ordered a Bulletproof EGR cooler and the SCT tuner to delete...from what I've read and followed it will allow it to pass and not have to deal with it overheating inbetween...when I unplugged the ERG the mpg went down 2-3 mpg btw.

 

I have a late 04 and the CEL came on after I unplugged EGR... not right away though when it cycled up on up to start there she was.

 

Ok so I've read up on the EGR delete stuff and I'm still somewhat confused. If I buy the Liberator kit and install it, then after your done you re attach the EGR with or without the blocking plate in place. Some of the posts I'm reading sound like you put the EGR back as it was plugged in and all but to me that seems like it wouldn't work.

Also If i get a banks intake manifold and intake would that interfere?

 

After reading hundreds posts it seemed to me putting in a bulletproof cooler maked sense, then buying a tuner to keep it functioning, in the interim I can turn it off until the next inspection or if I sell it remove the tuner.

I don't know about the Banks...though many here would...this is by far the place to be with a 6.0 PS.

 

dont get a intake. it wont help you out one bit!! i promise! yes do the delete if thats they way you want to go and leave the valve in place. then buy the sct tuner to shut it off so that way you dont get the CEL. if you put the blocker plate in and remove the valve or unplug the valve your fan might not operate correctly

 

Nice to guess right for a change...when all else failed!

 

"Rockwall " I will be going there soon to see the Family.

 

A real simple way to block off your EGR, Well kinda, you still need to remove turbo and intake the wire loom and Inj, loom for the most part will lay over to the pass, side.
and if you go that far you should take off the oil filter tower, take out the oil cooler from the housing and clean it out with hi-pressure HOT water / Steam like a pressure washer, it works very well.
And yes when you take off the filter tower and take out the oil cooler it will spill about a 3/4 qt, of oil,so put some rags in the area in front of the turbo.
now back to the EGR cooler just go get 3 freeze plugs to plug up both ends
's of the cooler then the third you use to block the Y / down pipe
(The one that go's to the cooler).
don't need to but W.T.H.
Now some down pipes have a ramp type deal in them if you look down in side, to catch exhaust togo into the EGR cooler, it almost blocks 3/4 of the dia, of the pipe.
If you have a harbor freight tools near by get a exhaust pipe expander that fits inside take a torch and heat up the area thru the port that the cooler clamps on to (get it red hot) now with your impact gun tighten up the expander it will close up the ramp deal, and now all the exhaust will goto the turbo, AND YES you will feel a difference in take off, ( more low end tork,)
It took me 6hr cuz like a dumb AZZ I didn't put a new Oring on the oil cooler housing, (the lite Blue one)
Well no need to tell you what it did, hahaha.
So had to take it all back apart.
Now you need to watch the turbo going back on where it clamps on to the Ex/pipe, if lip on the pipe doesn't go into the turbo then you should loosen up the two bolts on the ex-pipe on pass, and driver side and the y pipe, just loosen. it will only take you 5 extra min, as long as you have the right tools like a two 2' extensions an swivel. now I use a Dewalt 18V impact gun, it makes quick work of the whole job. Very quick.I have pic,s

And I have two trucks with it done like this with over 70,000 miles on them. and one pulled a 8,300lb concrete pump every day. Here in so-cal with a temp in summer time around 90.

 

I stand corrected

I'll be heading that way this weekend. Dad got a sail boat so hopefully we will be doing some sailing on Saturday, never been before

 

$2000.00 Delete kit on E-bay

ARP studs
Head gaskets
Egr delete with down pipe
new oil cooler
tuner
exhaust
all other gaskets needed

What do you guys think of Changing the studs and gaskets?
Should i wait till i blow a gasket?
Are the ARP studs really worth it?