Plugged the fuse back in and plugged the code reader in and started her up. The ABS light went out for about two seconds and came back on. The only code that came up was that my CPU was bad. That always shows up when I have chip tuned for anything other than stock. So I cleared the codes and took it for a drive. No error codes came up. I shut her down and restarted, same thing. Giggles wired behind the glove box, no change. I payed attention as I pressed the brake and it seemed to be a little mushy. Maybe I need to have my brakes bled just to make sure.

Sorry Charlie, I didn't mean to highjack yor thread here. I hope it will help you in diagnosing your problem.

 

I think you may need to try it with a star scanner or something equivalent to it. Maybe even just flash the code off manually. I know there is a way but I sure can't remember it. I'll try to look it up in one of my books tomorrow ok. I know there is a pigtail to ground. I just can't remember if it's under the hood on yours or by the module. You ground it with KOER and count flashes on the abs light. On my 94 it is under the hood by the old eec4 connector. If you messed with the brakes recently, bled them or anything, then it's possible that you got a piece of trash in one of the abs valve ports jamming it but that always makes a mushy pedal too and doesn't fit your symptoms. That abs valve is made from Monel or some stainless steel alloy and your fluid would have to be super nasty to mess it up. I mean like half full of water. It is so rare on Fords that I hardly ever mention it. There are just too many other things that are a lot more common. Dodge and GM valves had a much smaller accumulator and ports on them and they do like to stick. There is just nothing nice about GM abs systems in these years.

Oh is your truck a 4x4? ABS is disabled when in 4 wheel drive on these systems. SOMETIMES, it's rare, but I've seen a couple with burned out 4x4 indicator bulbs turn on the ABS light when it's in 4 wheel drive. Power from that circuit is what disables the ABS if I remember right.

 

Yes, it is 4WD and the bulb is good, I just used it yesterday. I do think it would be rare to have gotten any trash in it. I hadn't been into the brakes before this started occurring. I guess something could be detiorating in the master, but like I said, there was no Floyd at the back of the master when I pulled it loose and checked. I may break down and have a "professional" go through the brakes. They are mighty important, especially with the loads I haul.

I'm using a MAX MicroTuner Superchips to try and pull the codes with. I had also tried to pull the codes with an Edge EEF1000 and got no errors, but that was with the ignition off and now I'm waiting for it to come back from the factory for a reprogram.

What type chip tuner do you recommend? Both these that I have require you stop and shut the engine down to start the tuning process. Would like to have one that's adjustable on the fly.

 

I have a tony wildman 4 position. LOVE IT!
I think you are gonna have to ground that wire and flash the codes off. I know my old star scanner reads them but I've heard nothing but trouble from people trying it with other scanners.
Just don't get the wrong wire. If it's by the glovebox on yours then there is also a brown wire there I think that is for reprogramming the speedometer. Don't ground that one. You only get so many tries at that one before you just get a permanent error on the cluster.

 

DDPJ don't worry about the hijacking lol we're all here to help each other. I haven't bought the valve yet. I'm going to go over the system and check the booster again and see what happens. I wish I had a little more time to work on this thing. I'll let you guys know if I narrow it down. Thanks again for all the help everyone.