Air Pipe Sizing requirements?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 113
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From: Central Oregon
Air Pipe Sizing requirements?
My new Quincy arrived and the electricity is almost in
I am planning to rob the piggy bank and spring for copper to plumb the 20x40 shop. Can I get by with 3/8 or is 1/2 better? The Quincy is rated for 175 psi but I doubt that Ill ever use it! ( never had it, either) What other goodies does an 80 gal need?
Should the dryers be close to the pump, or down the line?
The compressor has its own room.
Thanks
Zeke D.
I am planning to rob the piggy bank and spring for copper to plumb the 20x40 shop. Can I get by with 3/8 or is 1/2 better? The Quincy is rated for 175 psi but I doubt that Ill ever use it! ( never had it, either) What other goodies does an 80 gal need?Should the dryers be close to the pump, or down the line?
The compressor has its own room.
Thanks
Zeke D.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 3
From: Sapulpa OK
1/2" Pipe will be the best. Set the pressure switch to start @ 110 and stop @ 125 ot as close as you can get. Some pressure switches do not have a very close differential, 35 PSIG minimum. Others can go as close as 2 PSIG.
The secret to dry air is to cool it. The cooler you can get it the dryer it will be. When you cool the air the moisture will condense and fall inside the tank/pipe as rain. It will flow to the lowest point where it should be drained off often. Your post does not indicate what part of the country you are in. If you are in a very humid part of the country this will be a problem. If you live in an arid part of the country like I do moisture will not be a problem. I drain my tank monthly and never get any water out.
What type of dryer do you have? It is usually best to dry the air before it gets to the receiver but for a homeowner it is not practical. If your dryer is sized properly, then you can install it right after the receiver. If you only need dry air at one location then you can size it for that one application and save some coin.
If you are handy you can come up with an old automotive A/C condenser, hang it in front of your compressor flywheel/fan and plumb your compressor to it and from the condenser to the receiver. This way you will drop 60% of the moisture right into the receiver. You will need to drain it often.
Another trick to getting dry air is to run a header pipe down the length of your shop and slope it downward away from the compressor. The for your drops exit the header from the top, over and then down.
Make sure the room is well ventilated.
The secret to dry air is to cool it. The cooler you can get it the dryer it will be. When you cool the air the moisture will condense and fall inside the tank/pipe as rain. It will flow to the lowest point where it should be drained off often. Your post does not indicate what part of the country you are in. If you are in a very humid part of the country this will be a problem. If you live in an arid part of the country like I do moisture will not be a problem. I drain my tank monthly and never get any water out.
What type of dryer do you have? It is usually best to dry the air before it gets to the receiver but for a homeowner it is not practical. If your dryer is sized properly, then you can install it right after the receiver. If you only need dry air at one location then you can size it for that one application and save some coin.
If you are handy you can come up with an old automotive A/C condenser, hang it in front of your compressor flywheel/fan and plumb your compressor to it and from the condenser to the receiver. This way you will drop 60% of the moisture right into the receiver. You will need to drain it often.
Another trick to getting dry air is to run a header pipe down the length of your shop and slope it downward away from the compressor. The for your drops exit the header from the top, over and then down.
Make sure the room is well ventilated.
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