I need to replace my stock single bowl mc on my 53. I want to replace it with a dual bowl mc. I am going to leave it under the floor. I cannot afford to switch to front discs right now. What is the best mc to use? will I need to put in residue valves and where does the brake light switch go with dual mc setup?

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...der-floor.html

Soooo, did you think I was lying or was it just not the answer that you were looking for?

 

Thanks BlueOvalRage, I thought I remembered the 67 mustang was the one to use just did not remember where the information was. This will bolt to the bracket that is sold by MidFifty right?

 

I used the mustang one for my '54. you really could use anyone with the same foot and bore size, but the mustang is easy to get (in stock at most places). I would double check with a paper clip to see if they have the res valves installed, some do some don't. you can get to the master though the stock floor hole and it fits the aftermarket brackets. you could use the stock pressure switch in the front line or I used a lever type switch and put it under the brake pedal arm on the firewall.

 

Does anyone have pictures showing the placement of the brake light switch? What do you do with the paper clip to see if the res valves are installed?

 

Pappy53. All you need to do is buy a master cylinder with res valves as part of the master cylinder. Period. Do your research of after market part numbers and buy the correct one the first time. You don't need a brake light. Many don't have them, unless you want to spent the money to install them. If you don't have a leak in the wheel areas and the brake fluid is ok and you don't notice any loss of braking during driving you are ok, I suggest a system check when you change oil and jack up the truck front, then the back and check the brakes. You will be ok. Listen to Blue Oval's advice. If you want to spend money re-plumbing new lines for the light and installing res valves in line, just replace the master cylinder with the correct one and be finished with the project until you want disc brakes. chuck

 

I think he's talking about the brake light switch, not the brake warning switch/light. I'll post some pics of my install tomorrow. As far as the paper clip goes, just undo a paper clip (straighten out), put it inside the little hole where the line would go. Your looking for a spring inside, LIGHTLY push it in, if you feel a spring then the res valves are already in it. I have a mustang master without them and a chrysler with them (both are 4 wheel drum masters), it's just a quick way of finding out.

 

If you are using a pressure switch for brake lights you can plumb it anywhere you want to. The Mustang MC may have a port for it but it will work anywhere in the system...

 

The question about the light brings up a good point. OEM dual systems usually have that block that all the lines go to, that has a shuttle valve inside. When one of the circuits loses pressure, the shuttle gets pushed over, blocking the dead circuit and also lighting the Brake idiot light. Don't care about the light but wouldn't the shuttle valve be needed? I can't say I've ever seen one used on a retrofit.

 

good point albq-f1, that is something that dawned on me while I was building / re-plumbing my brakes on my 52. If I lost one pressure to one wheel, Id lose all my braking, has anyone ever put a shuttle valve on a older setup some how?

 

It would have to be on a retrofitted dual M/C system, wouldn't work on a single M/C system.

 

Dual cambered master cylinders weren't around that long for 4 wheel drum brakes...only a few years as I remember (maybe 68-70 something) and I don't remember ever seeing a combination valve with them. I may be wrong but I think the combination valve may have made its debut with the dual chambered disc/drum master cylinders...

Where is that parts guy when you need him?

 

Pappy53 here is my brake light switch.......sorry about the crappy pics.





also on the shuttle valve, the master is 2 separate systems inside. if you pop a line you'll still have the other side of the master (very diminished braking), while the blown side continues to leak. if the shuttle valve blocks off one line i would think it would only give you a firm pedal vs a low pedal with the line leak (both will still give you very diminished braking).....of course you would have the warning light on with the shuttle valve.

 

On a drum-drum setup, you can plumb the lines directly from each side of the m/c to the corosponding end of the car, without needing the distribution block. All it is, really, is a light switch. It is not a proportioning valve. (I will be careful here (cya disclaimer) and limit my comments to concerning late 60's-early 70's Fords, since that is what I've always messed with, with regards to using parts for m/c swaps.) If you're not going to wire in a warning lamp, it is unnecessary. It was part of the government's safety upgrade regulations, back in the mid 60's.

On a disc/drum or disc/disc, that is a different matter and they need a proportioning valve. Since every application is unique, I would refer/defer to manufacturers recommendations on what one's needs might be.

 

Good thread on this dual master cylinder topic/I need to get something similar going on my 48F1 one of these days. I've got a long list of to do's but I'm leaning towards front discs, so I'll probably buy a complete kit from someone. Any favorite kits?--If this questions is "too hijacking" then just don't answer haha. I dont' want to make a "big turn or anything" but it sounds kinda like the same subject. thanks