my 89' 351 was acting up for a while. it would idle bad and then eventualy die. now she wont start all together. i pulled codes. fixed those few things. new spark wiers, new coil, new ignition control modual. the spark plugs are a few months old but clean, new IAC, new EGR, new cap and roter, new 02 censor,fuel filter is about a month and a half old. i retimed it. and i have 40 psi for fuel pressure. she cranks good. but just wont fire up.. i can answer any other questions if need be..

im sorry for my ****y spelling.

 

How did you set the timing it if it won't start? Are there any more codes? Have you checked for spark? Tried a noid light to see if the injectors are firing?

 

i set the timing from the number one cyl at top. and droped the distrib back in with rotar adjusted. it should be pretty close.. i have not tried with the injectors. but i have sprayed some starting fluid in it. and still nothing. i have checked for spark. and im getting spark to all cyl. i have to codes ritten down let me go grab them from down stairs

 

Curious as to the answer to andy's question. But, that not withstanding, with all those NEW components, I'm curious as to what codes you DID deal with and what (if any) may have been anomalies or presumed to be. Your description of the problem is indicative of a spark timing issue and there is only one key component that is notably ABSENT from the "new parts" inventory. PIP sensor is key to spark output and timing. Since it won't start now, the likelihood of getting an accurate diagnostics test result now is sketchy unless the battery is good and one last KOEO can be pulled. If it died and wouldn't restart, there is a good chance that IF the PIP has issues you could see either Code 14 or 211 depending upon the age/software version in your PCM.

TDC is a good starting point and should allow the truck to at least start but remember you will eventually be looking at more like 8-10 º BTDC.

 

i ran a koeo and a koer when the problem first started. for a while it would start back up. but the issue kept getting worse. i pulled 22,33,41,and 96. i also got 11 twice? but i ran the test three or four times ( never done it and wanted to make sure i was counting correctly) i also had it timed by a autos teacher at a local high school when the problem first accurd. but we did not check to make sure the cyl one was all the way up. i dont know that it should have been a consern now. im in no way a mechanic. just trying my best with things that would make sense. im also 20 . so still pretty dumb lol

 

Ok, you get points already for being 20 and admitting you don't know everything!

All but ONE of those Codes are pretty simple fixes as you have most likely already troubleshot them. However...

Code 96 - indicates a failed primary fuel pump circuit. In your 89 that means either the relay has failed (I can never remember what color the relay housing is in the early EEC-IV trucks (one is BROWN the other is GREEN). However, I can tell you that the fuel pump relay has a RED, a TAN/LT. GREEN, a YELLOW and a BROWN wire running to it. You should get battery voltage with the key in the ON/RUN position at both the YELLOW and BROWN wires.

If there is power ONLY at the YELLOW wire either the relay has failed or the wiring between pin 22 of the PCM and the relay is damaged.

If there IS power at both the BROWN and YELLOW wires check that the inertia switch has not tripped. If so, reset and try starting the truck. If it still won't start, bypass the inertia switch TEMPORARILY (is the temporarily part clear) and see if the truck will start. If it does, replace the inertia switch. If not, then either the pump itself has failed or the wiring between the inertia switch and the pump has problems.

P.S. I'm 40 and still have a lot to learn... just ask my wife.

 

lol thank you for your help grey. i will try those tomoro. and post an update. any help on finding both the relay and inertia switch. not sure where those would be located.. up until now iv always been a chevy guy. but i always wanted a bronco

 

The FP relay is under the hood somewhere. Don't recall where... someone with the same vintage truck might be better able to answer that one. The inertia switch is buried behind the passenger side kick panel near the floor. It has a red button on top that, if tripped, will stick up out of the body of the switch. Resetting merely requires pushing it back down until it latches. (Just a side note, some folks have seem wiring harness meltdown in the area around the inertia switch that has caused them headaches. Do a close inspection of the wiring up to it while you are in there).

 

i have a small idea of where that relay may be. im not good with knowing the real names for things. i often call the distrib the scribbler.lol and i will make sure to check the wiers in the area of the switch. thank you varey much sir

 

Do you hear the fuel pumps run when you turn the key to on? They should run for 2 seconds and then shut off. If you hear them, then the inertia switch, fuel pump relay, and wiring are all fine.

The timing is what concerns me. Even if you carefully line everything up, it's possible for the distributor to be far enough out for the truck not to run. What I would try is to loosen the holddown bolt and turn it back and forth while the engine is cranking. Hopefully you'll hear it catch and run and then you can time it properly - with a light.

 

I will try the timming idea as we'll.. I can here the fuel pump click on. Well I think its the seccond inline one(loncated on the frame rail on drives side a little before the fuel filter) that makes a very distinkctive noice when the key goes to the on postion. But I do not here a relay click at all. I also knoticed when I checked my fuel presure it shot straqight to 40. But when I shut the key off it floated down to 0 over a few seconds. Is that normal?

 

Ok just pulled a nother koeo. Couldn't get it to run. I got 96 33 53. I need help with 33( I was told one as to what it is, but don't remember) and 53is tp. Now tp it throttel postion correct?

 

Code 33 - EGR valve did not open/EVP out of range. Which means one of about five possible things...1) The vacuum supply to the EGR valve has failed (EVR - EGR VAcuum Regulator solenoid). 2) The EGR valve is jammed and won't open even with vacuum. 3) The EVP sensor has failed. 4) The reference voltage (VREF pin 26 of the PCM) TO the EVP is not there (ORANGE/WHITE wire). 5) Finally, the return signal down the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire is below 0.29 VDC.

Code 53 - TP voltage was high. (Good news is that the VREF output from pin 26 of the PCM is fine). The bad news is that the PCM was getting more voltage with the throttle closed than it should have. Most likely a bad TP sensor but to be certain you can disconnect the TP sensor, turn the key ON and take a voltage reading at the DK. GREEN/LT. GREEN wire. With the sensor disconnected there should be zero volts. With the sensor connected AND the throttle fully closed the reading should be the same. If you get ANY voltage with the sensor disconnected, there is s short in the harness. If you get any voltage with the sensor connected, replace it or "zero adjust" it like you would if you were installing a new one.

Code 96 - AGAIN... Failed secondary fuel pump circuit. The secondary circuit is the high pressure pump on the fuel rail.

As to your question about leak-down in the fuel system... it should be rather slow... like hours not minutes, and definitely not seconds. The fuel pump circuits are downstream of the inertia switch... they kinda NEED to be. However, the FP relay is UPSTREAM (electrically speaking) of the inertia switch.

I'm having a hard time believing you have fuel pressure at all with Code 96 coming up again.

 

Me and my grandfather did some back probing of the yellow and brown wires to the fuel pump relay. The brown wier had no voltage when the inertia switch was plugd in but has power hen not plugd in. I'm confused about this? Also I hear a varey loud noise from the upstream pump on the frame? The electric guy inbetween the skid plate and the fuel filter. Anything on any of this?

 

The BROWN wire sends power FROM the relay TO the inertia switch. The PINK/BLACK sends power on FROM the inertia switch TO the high pressure fuel pump on the frame rail. When the inertia switch is tripped this pump should have no power whatsoever. If the pump HAS power with the plunger UP replace the switch.