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Yeah, I had 2 studs looked good visually, but were just hanging there...they had corroded through at the head, and the outer portion had enough corrosion on the threads that they would never have backed out of the manifold. Had one that actually broke at the manifold- it weakened under the nut and the nut sheared off, so all that was visible was the end of the stud about an eigth of an inch below the surface of the manifold. It was clearly fatigued.
Before I bought the truck from my dad he had an oil change done, it was still at the shop when I picked it up. I had him ask the mechanic if a tune up was needed or the plugs changed, the mechanic said it didn't need one. How hard is it to pull them out to check them?
Now back to the manifolds. At work tomorrow I am going to try to take a recording around the manifold, spark plugs, and where the manifold goes into the y pipe? Is there anywhere else I should try?
Most mechanics are part of the reason the modulars exhibited spark plug blowout problems in the first place. Like I said before if the plugs have over 50k on them, change them. If the COP boots are over 5 years old I would change them also. Motorcraft single platinum plugs run around $3 each and the boots around $4 each.
The plugs are not very difficult to change. You remove one screw that holds the COP (coil on plug) down and pull the coil, boot and spring assembly out. If you be careful you do not have to unplug the coil from the wiring harness. Use some compressed air to blow any dirt out of the spark plug hole prior removing the plug.
As for the exhaust leak, if its bad enough you should be able to see a black carbon trail or feel the leak with your hand. Holding a piece of rubber hose up to your ear while trying to pinpoint the leak with the other end can help. I usually can hear and feel all but the smallest exhaust leaks. If your going to feel around the manifolds do it right after a cold start up.
I'd tackle the plugs first. A number of great write ups on the forum, just do a search for V10 plug change. It'll take a good afternoon and you'll be up on the engine to get to the back plugs, but it is not hard. Follow all the advise about using a bit of hose to back old plugs out and start new ones in, using anti-seize, checking coil boots and springs, and making sure you torque them correctly. I've seen both 12 and 14 lb/ft as the recommended torque for the plugs, so I used 13. Working so far.
I am sure others would say the same in recommending a plug change...it eliminates them as the source of the noise, and if you DO have one coming loose, you catch it before it becomes really expensive.
Well, I couldn't record any sounds, to much interference. I did however get some pics of cylinder's #1 and #10. #10 must be the one that I am hearing. Anyways, I'm looking for everyone's opinion. I know it's tough to make a diagnosis just by looking at some pics, but it's all I can do. The other cylinders seem to look fine. Tomorrow I'm going to check the torque on all of the spark plugs to see if any are working themselves loss. You will have to go to my profile to view them. Travis
Up date. Was going through the repair receipts and saw that in July 2009 at 93,315 miles the passenger side exhaust manifold had a leak. The shop removed the manifold and drilled out the 5 broken studs. They also replaced the plugs, plug boots, fuel filter and the air filter. The sound that I'm hearing is from the drivers side. Going to try to check the plugs today to see if they are the proper torque.
Found it, Found it, Found it!!!!!!!It was the exhaust flange leaking. My truck was sitting for about 6 hours here in Michigan, great whether here, 25 deg. out. Started it up and crawled underneath quickly and saw the exhaust smoke coming out of the flange. I'm going to do it again tonight to see if its leaking anywhere else.
Crap, not that lucky. !@#$% Started it again while I was under it, remote starters are great but scary when your under the truck, and saw condensation coming out of the exhaust flange's and coming out of cylinder's #5 and #10. In 2009 the mechanic took 7 hours to replace the right side manifold. This doesn't look good......
This isn't what you wanted to hear, but when I had the studs done and put in a set of Ford Motorsport headers, they had to pull the heads. The upside is that it got all new timing stuff, and we could look things over. Downside was the shop time, but it's done right.
Off subject, just had my new 4R100 from Brian's Truck Shop installed...love it, love it, love it. The truck has a whole new personality, is running like it should have new. One of the best things I've ever done for any vehicle I've owned.
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