Got any 5.4 2v engine removal tips?
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 25
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From: Frozen Minnesota
Just got done doin' it
Hi. Here's a few issues I had. Tranny cooler lines-Put a big crescent on the line where it goes into the plastic tank and once you initially crack the line loose, work it back and forth before proceeding. If the line is too stubborn cut with a tubing cutter, use a 6point socket, and repair with a 3/8" brass union later. I didnt know the radiator support was removable 
so i ended up needing to remove EVERYTHING off the front of the engine to get it to clear (v10 in and out). I was only made aware after i had the stripped down long block installed. having that bar out of the way made reinstalling the ps pump, alt., etc., a snap. There's a vacuum operated module of some sort on the a/c box that is extremely vulnerable during the lift out procedure. You will want the exhaust manifolds ON before installing. Water lines to oil filter and dipstick tube OFF. I pulled with intake manifold on and installed with it off, I HIGHLY suggest having the intake OFF for both operations. Best of luck!
so i ended up needing to remove EVERYTHING off the front of the engine to get it to clear (v10 in and out). I was only made aware after i had the stripped down long block installed. having that bar out of the way made reinstalling the ps pump, alt., etc., a snap. There's a vacuum operated module of some sort on the a/c box that is extremely vulnerable during the lift out procedure. You will want the exhaust manifolds ON before installing. Water lines to oil filter and dipstick tube OFF. I pulled with intake manifold on and installed with it off, I HIGHLY suggest having the intake OFF for both operations. Best of luck!
Last edited by Hooda; Mar 21, 2011 at 11:08 AM. Reason: spelling
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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Thats what i was planning on doing. The only other thing thats really puzzlen me is what do i tie up to, to pull the engine out n put it n?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 528
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From: Canada, ON New Market
two chains with a u bolt would be ideal,(so you can adjust the angle of the motor back to front). i attached one chain at either end to the intake bolts at the front of the motor then with the second chain attached at the rear of the motor bolted to the cylinder head via the intake bolts.
from my pull out id reccomend removing the oil cooler, very expensive to replace, yet hugs the crossmember...
from my pull out id reccomend removing the oil cooler, very expensive to replace, yet hugs the crossmember...
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From: Long Island USA
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Can i get to it without removing the dash
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 439
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From: Lubbock, Texas
I made this bracket to pull my V-10, I'm sure it would work on the V-8. I also have detailed instructions on removal. This was on the V-10 but all componants are the same so the direction should work.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 43
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From: Rural Hall, NC
Hello Mr. Pipeline,
I am getting ready to remove the 5.4L on my 2004 F150. Can I please get a copy of you removal instructions?
Thanks in advance.
I am getting ready to remove the 5.4L on my 2004 F150. Can I please get a copy of you removal instructions?
Thanks in advance.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 439
Likes: 4
From: Lubbock, Texas
Below you’ll find detailed engine removal instructions for a 2000 F350 V10 4x4 or similar vehicle. These steps are to the best of my recollection and notes taken during the engine removal. I started with a copy of the shop manual instructions provided by a fellow FTE member. However, after I compiled my notes I added a lot more details and found a few step not required. I’m not a certified mechanic and don’t claim this is the only way to perform an engine removal. I hope you find this helpful.
- Disconnect the battery.
- Remove battery from vehicle. This makes a good location to place bolts and tools.
- <s>Discharge and recover the air conditioning system</s>. I did NOT perform this step. I left the entire A/C system intact and didn’t have any access problems. You will get in/out of the engine compartment a lot, you must be careful not to damage the condenser core.
- Drain antifreeze in clean 5 gallon bucket or container for reuse/disposal.>>
- Remove the engine hood.
- Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
- Remove air filter, disconnect MAF, remove air filter pluming, and air filter bracket.
- Remove front grill and radiator covers.
- Remove coolant overflow bottle and hose.
- Disconnect and remove upper/lower radiator hoses, remember to disconnect the coolant hoses at the oil cooler.
- Remove the radiator, belt, fan shroud and engine cooling fan.
- Remove the radiator grille support.
- <s>Remove the A/C condenser core.</s> I did NOT perform this step.
- Disconnect the 42-pin and the 16-pin connectors and remove the nut and the harness mounting bracket.
- Disconnect and remove alternator. (your standing in the engine compartment for the next 14 steps, having a helper to fetch tools helps)
- Disconnect throttle body linkage, vacuum hoses and connections.
- Remove throttle body.
- Disconnect COP and injector connectors.
- Remove COP and spark plug boots.
- Pull injector rail up on both sides, leave in place for removal later. (some injectors might stay in rail, that’s ok)
- Disconnect heater hose on front of intake manifold.
- Remove the intake manifold.
- Cover intake ports with duct tape or stuff rags into each port to keep dirt and debris out.
- Remove fuel rail using special tool.
- Disconnect the heater return hose.
- Disconnect the o2 sensor plugs.
- Remove fuel line bracket from rear of engine.
- Remove the top few transmission bolts. (This should be everything from the top of the engine.
- Remove the bolts and position the power steering pump aside.
- Disconnect the A/C cycling switch.
- <s>Disconnect the suction hose at the accumulator</s>. I did NOT perform this step.
- <s>Remove the A/C compressor</s>. I did NOT perform this step.
- Disconnect and remove the starter motor.
- Remove the bolts and position the transmission oil cooler lines and bracket aside.
- Remove the stud bolt and position the ground strap aside.
- Remove the nut and position the wiring bracket aside.
- Remove exhaust header pipe. I have a stock exhaust with the rams head header pipe. Removing this provided much better access to the transmission and torque converter bolts.
- Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
- Remove the access plug.
- Remove the torque converter bolts.
- Remove the lower transmission-to-engine bolts.
- <s>Remove the transmission oil filler tube</s>. I did NOT perform this step. I was able to remove the engine without removing the transmission filler tube.
- Install the Modular Lifting Bar and support the engine with a suitable floor crane. I made a custom lifting plate that bolted onto the intake location of the heads. See photos in this thread.
- Remove the engine support insulator nuts (engine mount nuts from frame).
- Support the transmission with a jack.
- Best if you have two people, one under the vehicle and one operating the engine hoist.
- You might need a small pry bar to spread the engine and transmission. The alignment pins were very tight fitting and took some manipulating of the engine hoist and pry bar to separate the two.
- Once the engine is free…I unbolted the A/C compressor and set aside. Much easier access to a few of the mounting bolts.
- Remove the engine from the vehicle.
- Once mounted on an engine stand be prepared for A LOT of coolant remaining in the block and heads.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Rural Hall, NC
Thank you Mr. Pipeline.
Did you use a regular engine hoist (cherry picker) to get the motor lifted out of the truck? Was this type of hoist able to lift the motor high enough?
Thanks again.
Did you use a regular engine hoist (cherry picker) to get the motor lifted out of the truck? Was this type of hoist able to lift the motor high enough?
Thanks again.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 205
Likes: 5
From: Marion, Kentucky
I would not recommend the plate for removal as shown earlier. It does not provide angle adjust ability. Just buy an engine leveler for your lift so that you can adjust tilt of the motor or motor / transmission to the desired angle throughout the removal and installation. I hook the front chain (at the end where the crank adjustment handle is) to the alternator mount bolt holes. If I am removing the engine and transmission together I wrap a chain around the bell housing with as little slack as possible. If removing the engine only I wrap the ends of the chain around the ends of the exhaust manifolds and secure with a bolt. The main thing is that you keep the lift arm as low as possible to the engine with minimal slack in the chains because when the engine is lifted, if the lifting mechanism is too loose the lift bar will hit the firewall overhang above the engine. Just my method.
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