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A couple days ago someone posted a link to an oil study. I cant find it now. I remember it wasnt really related to the original subject of the thread and they didnt really describe what the link went to, so I dont know what to search for. I think it was a pdf file, had to do with CJ4 ratings and such. Anyone remember where that was?
Hey Guys...That lube oil report is bunk...That guy doesn't have a clue as to what the hell he is talking about. CJ-4 oil is better than Cl-4 or the Cl-4 Plus. As for our "older" diesel engines synthetics are not cost effective nor will they increase engine life. But each to his own...I use Rotella 15w-40 T and change it every 5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.
I've heard so many different things about which oil is best... Dont know what to believe any more. I'm about ready to go to wal mart and but 14 different quarts of oil and dump them all in there. While I'm there might as well pick up a Fram filter. (JK) What that study shows about rotella T isnt very promising. I dont know how old the study is or if/where you can buy the top rated ones. I've spent hours reading up on it lately and still cant figure out what oil to run.
Note there's a difference in that study between Rotella T Dino Vs Synthetic....
At any rate, yes, there is a reason to buy synthetic for some, in my case, its -40C and 0W oils save me from freezing to death on a trail in the middle of nowhere.
Note there's a difference in that study between Rotella T Dino Vs Synthetic....
At any rate, yes, there is a reason to buy synthetic for some, in my case, its -40C and 0W oils save me from freezing to death on a trail in the middle of nowhere.
I agree sythetics are great for newer engines...For the older ones like a lot of us run there is no significant gains in better milage, wear, and most of all the cost difference ratio.
Now...I used to own 8 catapillar 3208b engines to drive my bigtrucks I had leased on with A J Metler Trucking in Knoxville, TN. Two of those engines used Delo 400 and the other 6 used Rotella. All those engines were overhauled at 800k. The two that used Delo 400 were in a lot worse shape for wear than the other 6 engines that used Rotella and as a result cost more to overhaul.
That report may have some merit...but you can't go by past performances when comparing additives to newer oils unless you put some miles on the oil under real world operating conditions. That report does not mention that. Sometimes more of a good thing is really a bad thing or adding more does not equate to better. There is a limit to just how much is a good thing.
As for me...people can knock Rotella, but my experience under real world use tells me that oil does it's job and a good one at that. But like I said earlier...each to his own...and there are other oils and lubricants I would use as long as they are cost effective. I agree with that part of the report also. I really don't think anyone can say one oil is better than another without real world experience. Testing and science can only predict or point in the right direction...not prove anything...unless tested in real world conditions.
i posted that link and was backed by most everyone here. that came from bob is the oil guy if i remember correctly and was conducted by blackstone lab. a very reputable oil analysis testing company. yes the test data has merit.
rotella t dino fell into the dead last category with this to say
I’m also guessing there isn’t one API CJ-4 oil above the Ho-Hum
performance level. Use these oils only if you have particulate traps
on your vehicles! In fact, some large fl eet operators are running
API- CI-4 and CI-4 plus oils in their 2007 engines. They reason that
it is less expensive to clean their particulate traps more frequently
than it is to cut back on oil change intervals and stock two oils in
their maintenance facilities.
your pretty well off to run john deere plus 50 II oil. its what i run now and has many hours testing in john deere equipment behind it to prove they must have done something right. if its good enough for $300,000+ tractors, combines, sprayers, ect. then its good enough for my 3,000 dollar truck.
Pete,
So you are basing your evidence as empirical, thats a good way of figuring things out, i like it as well. But they arent testing how the oil breaks down, what it will do in 1000000000 miles and so forth. They are merely pointing out the "ingredients" if you will as to what is in the oil. The low scoring of rotella made my eyebrow raise as well but here is the problem, they tested the CJ-4 oil. If they tested the CI-4 oil like you used to use, the results would have been different. Big oil and petro companies around the world have to meet standards and when here in the states or north america new standards come out they scramble to meet the need. CJ-4 oils are made to meed the low emissions needs for todays vehicles. CI-4 or earlier oils are made for our era engines and therefor protect better. If you figure that CI-4 and CJ-4 Rotella are the same thing, they arent. Look on BITOG where you will see the VOA and UOA of the two different rotellas and you will see what i mean. Not here to rain on your parade of insults to two very smart and helpful guys that did that study for Turbo Diesel Registry, but yeah your way off bro.
Now...I used to own 8 catapillar 3208b engines to drive my bigtrucks I had leased on with A J Metler Trucking in Knoxville, TN. Two of those engines used Delo 400 and the other 6 used Rotella. All those engines were overhauled at 800k. The two that used Delo 400 were in a lot worse shape for wear than the other 6 engines that used Rotella and as a result cost more to overhaul.
Pete
The problem I see with going off this type of info is you cant take into account all the variables, 800k miles with different drivers and countless other things that contribute. Someone recently posted on this site that "whatever you do, dont use brand xxxxx motor oil, I put it in my engine and it turned to sludge in 3k miles." There's no way to tell if it was the brand of oil that caused it.
bashby if i were you i would just read through the study and pick one from the best, better categories and run a motorcraft, or wix filter. your pretty safe that way.
i paid 72 dollars with tax for 5 gallon bucket of john deere oil. our tax rate is .08226 percent so it actually runs in the ballpark of 65 bucks before tax. or 13 dollars a gallon when bought in 5 gallon buckets (it cost a little more by the gallon jug. your paying for more plastic when buying it by the gallon) plus you can clean out the bucket when its empty and use it for other things. thats the main reason i buy the buckets lol
bashby if i were you i would just read through the study and pick one from the best, better categories and run a motorcraft, or wix filter. your pretty safe that way.
i paid 72 dollars with tax for 5 gallon bucket of john deere oil. our tax rate is .08226 percent so it actually runs in the ballpark of 65 bucks before tax. or 13 dollars a gallon when bought in 5 gallon buckets (it cost a little more by the gallon jug. your paying for more plastic when buying it by the gallon) plus you can clean out the bucket when its empty and use it for other things. thats the main reason i buy the buckets lol
Thats what I was planning on doing but I am not sure if any of those top rated oils are still available. I think I used to get pennzoil long life at walmart, now they have some other pennzoil and I dont think they carry it in 15w40. I saw the long life at napa today but only in quarts.(bought low silicate antifreeze while there and som sca's from the stealership).
that oil analysis is recent. within the last year recent i believe don't quote me on that but im pretty sure thats right. i know john deere oil is still available since i was there Saturday and saw it.
Hey Guys...wreckinball...that's exactly my point...like I said the report has merit...but if you change your oil and filter at each oil change on a regular basis there is no need for guys to search out and pay for the higher priced oils. It is just not cost effective vs. when an older engine will need to be overhauled. Yes...again I agree newer engines should use the top rated oils, especially if under warranty and that's what the manufacturer recommends. But...I would not go out and purchase Valvoline Premium Blue not any other top rated oil thinking it will extend the life of an engine that has hundreds of thousands of miles on it. For example...If I thought for one second Rotella T Synthetic would extend the life of my old 6.9L, give me better fuel mileage, etc...enough to surpass the cost vs. using non-synthetic Rotella I would use it...So..if I remember right that report was written with today's engines in mind not 80 and 90 models. Like I said...to each his own...I am just trying to say the Ho-Hum oils meet or exceed API and SAE specs and there is nothing wrong with them for older engines, however when I am finished overhauling one of the other 6.9's I have in the barn I will use one of the top rated oils...probably Rotella Synthetic.