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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #16  
1994F2507.3L's Avatar
1994F2507.3L
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im not saying buy premium oil im sayin don't buy the most inefficient oil out their if you can afford not to. i sure as hell aint gonna pay over about 15 bucks a gallon for oil.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #17  
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I've seen that oil report floating around before. It is simply a look at fresh oil additive packs/base oil as others have pointed out. Although it does hold some merit with their testing, their bias is also quite obvious...

Gee, a study from a Cummins forum that rates their Cummins recommended oil (Valvoline premium blue) as the BEST oil money can buy? Give me a break.

I myself have stuck with good old Rotella in all of our machinery. Does the job, never had a problem.
Those of you throwing money at John Deere oil should look a little more closely though... You will find that all you are paying for is simply a relabeled oil produced by Chevron, nothing more.

Just like the Cummins oil, of course they will recommend it. They WANT you to pay up for their brand!
Take your time, read up and pick what works best for you.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:59 PM
  #18  
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Mobil 1 5-40 works for me, I used to run cummins valvoline premium blue and then delo chevron but ended up putting mobil in this time. It works fine for what I can tell. People who run around saying this oil is the best or this or that are crazy. Oil isn't gonna make it or brake it as long as you change it.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:37 PM
  #19  
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1994F2507.3L
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regular price rotella dino here runs about 14 bucks at walmart and 16 at autozone and their synthetic is closer to 25-30 now on sale i can get it around 12 for dino and synthetics never on sale

ill take my john deere at 13 bucks a gallon...... and yea im gonna promote john deere their one of my part time employers and my family/friends have got alotta use outta their equipment
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 1994F2507.3L
regular price rotella dino here runs about 14 bucks at walmart and 16 at autozone and their synthetic is closer to 25-30 now on sale i can get it around 12 for dino and synthetics never on sale

ill take my john deere at 13 bucks a gallon...... and yea im gonna promote john deere their one of my part time employers and my family/friends have got alotta use outta their equipment
I would shop somewhere else if I were you, that is highway robbery for synthetic Rotella. In fact, I can grab a gallon of Rotella synthetic off the shelf at wally world for $20. Not even on sale either as of last night when I was there.

If you want to save even more than the whole dollar off the Rotella dino, just skip the John Deere label and get the Chevron Delo 400 on sale for $10. Same stuff, different package.

You can promote John Deere, doesn't bother me as all of my neighbors do (even with the problems they have). They make good equipment, I own a 3020 diesel as a matter of fact. But don't forget, money is also green and yellow to match.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:06 PM
  #21  
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I'd be all for running John Deere oil if I knew for sure it was high quality and priced right. To quote my buddy Budha "Where I come from the truck's a Ford and the tractor's green!" I kinda feel bad that IH made my engine in my truck, hell I recently jokingly told my dad's neighbor to get some green paint when he asked me how to fix his IH tractor. Of course I proceeded to help him split it in half and replace the clutch.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #22  
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1994F2507.3L
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i can assure you that it is high quality oil and anyone saying otherwise well they just don't know whats good for them. im not 100% sure that john deere is exactly delo chevron 400... ive looked all over my bucket and have not seen a made buy or made for anywhere on there.... but think about it its run in big diesel engines designed to run at wide open throttle all day long moving at 3mph pulling a 9 shank ripper through the ground.... now thats a load. and those engines run hotter than our trucks...... our trucks will never run as hot as those engines are designed to run and hold up. so i don't see the oil breaking down due to heat in our engines. and ya know this oil has many a hours of testing in the equipment in the field not in labs i know myself and many farmers in our area if something don't work right their going to be raising hell and alot of people will no about it fairly quickly and if it wasn't worth running i don't think john deere would continue running it.

i was also told by our tech's that if the engine fails and it is proved to be because of the oil then john deere will replace the engine. now im not sure if that applies to engines outside the john deere equipment or not.... but i can assure you that it cost way more to replace a deere engine than it does a IDI. that is just what i was told as far as the replacement. don't quote me on it.

and i say 13 dollars a gallon in the 5 gallon buckets is reasonably priced especially with the big green label compared to rotella and others.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:26 PM
  #23  
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These good ole oil debates are fun and will never end but I will say this. If you are intake system is junk, your engine is out of tune, your injector are junk, your nozzles are junk then no matter what oil you run in your engine will save it. There are lots of brands of oils out there that engines live for years on. To many things can cause lube oil failures.


Pete, Funny you said 3208. The last 3208's that went into trucks from the factory half the guys on this forum weren't born. One heck of a boat engine.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #24  
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I have been doing a little research into this study and it was published in the august 2007 issue of turbo diesel magazine. So it is probably a little bit dated but was probably accurate enough at the time. I still need to find out about the guy who wrote the article to see if I think his opinion matters.
Here is a link to the web page for that issue:
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/articlelive/search?Page=3&Query=TDR+57&SearchType=&Categories= a%3A1%3A{i%3A0%3Bb%3A0%3B}&searchWhat=a%3A4%3A{i%3 A0%3Bs%3A14%3A%22searchArticles%22%3Bi%3A1%3Bs%3A1 1%3A%22searchBlogs%22%3Bi%3A2%3Bs%3A11%3A%22search Pages%22%3Bi%3A3%3Bs%3A10%3A%22searchNews%22%3B}&s earchField=a%3A3%3A{i%3A0%3Bs%3A17%3A%22searchCont entBody%22%3Bi%3A1%3Bs%3A12%3A%22searchAuthor%22%3 Bi%3A2%3Bs%3A11%3A%22searchTitle%22%3B}
If I find out anything else interesting I will post back later
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #25  
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Oil Report

Originally Posted by Dave7.3
I've seen that oil report floating around before. It is simply a look at fresh oil additive packs/base oil as others have pointed out. Although it does hold some merit with their testing, their bias is also quite obvious...

Gee, a study from a Cummins forum that rates their Cummins recommended oil (Valvoline premium blue) as the BEST oil money can buy? Give me a break.

I myself have stuck with good old Rotella in all of our machinery. Does the job, never had a problem.
Those of you throwing money at John Deere oil should look a little more closely though... You will find that all you are paying for is simply a relabeled oil produced by Chevron, nothing more.

Just like the Cummins oil, of course they will recommend it. They WANT you to pay up for their brand!
Take your time, read up and pick what works best for you.
Now you guys are getting it! The truth is all those oils that meet specs will do a good job. It's is simply a matter of seeing thru the hype. As I said before...change your oil and filter regularly, don't mistreat that engine, and keep up with all other maintenance and you will get the most miles out of it regardless of which oil you use...hyped up expensive stuff or the HO HUM stuff...LOL

BTW...I wish they still made those old 3208B cats...sure was easy to put a stinger in 'em and make 'em run hot!

Pete
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:40 PM
  #26  
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bad link on my side. Also i think its the same one on page one, tdr57.

Oils are oils, sure, but to an extent. I hate this topic on these forums, its like religion around a campfire of military servicemembers. lol.

Bottom line, opec and big oil will do what they can to make a buck, a lot of oils are the same tank oil from the same supplier with a different name, line valvoline and napa. Same oil, same stuff, period. But cheaper so i like it lol. I switched from the CJ4 rotella to the napa when i saw the additive package and i need 500 more miles till my lab check to see where i stand. The napa oil holds clear a lot longer, like 2000 miles longer than the new CJ4 rotella in my truck, notice i said my truck. Results will vary.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #27  
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I know it's not current info but my 1964 DOANE'S Agricultural Digest states "Engineers feel 10 hours of heavy work such as plowing will be approximately equivalent to 1500 miles of travel in an automobile." And most tractor manufacturers Recomend 150-200 hour oil change intervals. So if you do heavy work if 10hrs=1500mi then even at 150hr change you have an equivalent of 22,500mi on that oil, and thats on dino oil, and if companies like John Deere say their oil holds up or they buy me a new engine I'm assuming they must peddel some good stuff. And at $13/gal I'm sold
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #28  
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jd oil is good, im not arguing that at all. Just costs both arms and one leg here in canada.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:55 PM
  #29  
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I run the Carquest brand 15w-40 diesel engine oil. It's manufactured by the same company that sells the Napa 15w-40 diesel engine oil...Ashland Company.

And I top off once a week with either a quart of Carquest 15w-40, Napa 15w-40, or even Traveller 15w-40 from Tractor Supply.

I just try to keep it topped off, and I dont exactly have a light right foot either. 70% of my driving is WFO throttle and most times each gear sees the engine governor....

My engine burns a quart a week, geez my $900 truck isn't worth the best oil LOL
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 11:02 PM
  #30  
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That's ok since you have an auto, you dont need your left foot anyway!
 
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