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Firewall "Massage"

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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 09:57 AM
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Firewall "Massage"

A buddy is loaning me his porta-power tomorrow to do my DP. I know I need to cut the pinch weld and bend it down. Is there typically more manipulation that needs to be done on the firewall? Do I use the spreader adapter or another? And is a 2x4 the right size to use the portapower effectively?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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When I did mine 4 or 5 cuts about an inch apart, and prying with a 2 inch well pipe to bend the seam flat. It doesn't take too much force to bend the lip, and that was all i bent to install the 3" down pipe. If you are putting in a larger pipe more massaging may be needed.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 03:43 PM
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A few cuts will help, and yea use the alligator mouth spreading piece with a 2x4 against the engine and you'll be golden. i've done it this way with a few buddys pickups, just need to get it done on mine lol.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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I plan on doing my downpipe at some time in the future, so I'm here to learn.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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seam doesn't have to be cut if you are using a porta-power, just start rolling it down with a pry bar than get the porta-power in there and finish it.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 12:14 AM
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You guys have said it all, just don't be bashful, push away!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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I used a porta power at first, but I had better luck with about a 5 foot long 2x4 prying against the corner of the head. When I used the porta power it wanted to flex the whole firewall area and then spring back. Lots of options, these trucks all have a little different gap there to start with.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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About to buy my DP in a few days, so I'm here to learn as well
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 02:41 PM
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Do a fit check first

After the old downpipe is out, try dropping the top half of the new one in place first. Evidently the assembly tolerances for engine and cab on frame locations can make a notable difference in clearance, and how much firewall "adjustment" you have to do.

If you're lucky, there's enough clearance between the head and firewall, and all you have to do is bend back the flange at the transmission tunnel/firewall seam. If you need more clearance, move the firewall before bending the flange. If you bend the flange first, it stiffens the firewall and makes it harder to move. I was really unlucky on mine, I needed to peen back the firewall with a short air hammer and blunt chisel; porta-power didn't give me enough clearance.

Once you get enough clearance between vertical, top section of the firewall and the head, then you can bend back the flange.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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I used a short ram on the porta-power like the one below with a chunk of lumber on the back of the block......add a non-marring hammer (plastic, rawhide ect), beat on it from inside the cab. This stops the metal from springing back on you.

10 Ton Hydraulic Power Short Ram
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 03:05 PM
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I just cut the seam twice, got my favorite 3' prybar and a block of wood and walla, done.
 
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