Help with 84 Ranger Diesel
#1
Help with 84 Ranger Diesel
I am currently swapping my 86 B2200 over to a 1984 2.2 Diesel out of a Ranger or 2.2 Mazda Diesel which ever you want to call it but it came out of an 84 Ranger either way. Prior to me getting the motor all the wiring was cut or pulled from the motor and I am having a little bit of a struggle with it now, after I have replaced all the gaskets on the motor and now wanting to run all the under hood wiring for the truck, but I need to find the wiring schematics for the motor. Does anyone have anything on the wiring for this motor? I've figured I can run universal gauges for the water temp and oil pressure, and can hard wire the glow plugs, but I am not 100% sure how to wire in the electronical device in the rear of the fuel pump, and not sure if I am missing anything either. I've done several motor swaps, but this is my first diesel and first time I have not pulled the motor I was swapping myself. Please any assistance that you can provide me would be very much appreciated.
For future reference, this is very complicated for me because the Ford Dealerships do not even have access to this wiring information I have a couple friends that are dealership techs and can't get the information and do not have experience with these motors and have told me to try to find Canadian or overseas manuals, not U.S. bc no U.S. produced manuals have the information either.
For future reference, this is very complicated for me because the Ford Dealerships do not even have access to this wiring information I have a couple friends that are dealership techs and can't get the information and do not have experience with these motors and have told me to try to find Canadian or overseas manuals, not U.S. bc no U.S. produced manuals have the information either.
Last edited by 8mile; 12-21-2010 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Replys to the post
#2
OH, yeah, the ole lets load up the front end of my little truck plan.
If I was looking for schematics I would check Helminc.com first, then ebay, then google the year, engine, ranger manual.
How's that saying go? Fail to plan-plan to fail?
or is it getting the cart before the horse much?
idk.
If I was looking for schematics I would check Helminc.com first, then ebay, then google the year, engine, ranger manual.
How's that saying go? Fail to plan-plan to fail?
or is it getting the cart before the horse much?
idk.
#4
g_k50 thanks for the attempt but not very useful and not very accurate ... you do realize putting a 2.2 diesel in for a 2.2 gas isn't trying to load up the front end of my little truck, you being a "Posting Guru" on here should know if I was trying to load up the front end I would be using a 302 or even a JZ motor most likely a 2JZ bolt up for this truck. This motor can be found in a stock 1983 or 1984 Ranger or B2200 which dimension wise under the hood has less room and is built with the same weight capacity, so I don't get your logic on that. It's rare to find find a Diesel Ranger or B2200 that's what makes the project fun and interesting and when doing a mini for car shows, it comes down to the things that are different from everyone else, which is getting hard to do anymore. This is one of those things that will make this truck very unique, plus allow me to bump my fuel mileage from about 20mpg up to 35mpg. I did fail to put in the first posting that I have contacted Ford techs and am wherry of buying a shop or service manual without conformation that what I need is in there. I contacted a guy on Ebay that actually has a 1983 Engine Shop Manual for a 2.2 Diesel Ranger and he said it doesn't have a wiring diagram in it, so I do believe I'm looking to have someone with experience advise me. Also I don't need wiring diagram for the 86 Ranger I know where all the wires came from and where they run as I have labeled them and unwrapped both under hood wiring harnesses so that they can be traced and eliminated as needed or I may eliminate the entire factory wiring and re-wire everything myself.
#5
#7
My manual does have diesel information/wiring diagrams. may take a while to arrrange to scan the pages to send you. found some for sale on eBay - here's one listing if you're interested http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9197&viewitem=
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#9
Diesel conversion electrics
I have an '83 factory diesel. As far as I know, all you need do is supply 12 volts to the injection pump and spin the engine. The glow plugs are very necessary with a cold engine, but once warm it starts pretty easy.
Your picture shows a gas transmission? I do not know if the engine will mate. You are also absent a power steering pump. Somewhere you better get one or you will have a horrible time steering the truck. Also, there is a dashboard cable that shifts timing and makes idle faster for cold starting. Do you have that?
Your picture shows a gas transmission? I do not know if the engine will mate. You are also absent a power steering pump. Somewhere you better get one or you will have a horrible time steering the truck. Also, there is a dashboard cable that shifts timing and makes idle faster for cold starting. Do you have that?
#10
I have a 83 diesel and have had diesels for years now. There are two starting aids on the little 2.2, glow plugs and a air intake heater. The air intake heater is engaged when the stater is engaged, the glow plugs are controlled by a timer circuit that is temperature sensitive to determine how long the wait to start light stays on as well as how long the glow plugs are on as well. I would not recommend trying to control the glow plugs manually, you can burn them out very quickly.
I found two relays, one on the fire wall in the center that feeds power to the glow plugs and one on the starter that goes for the intake heater.
I'm sorry I couldnt give you better info that that. Good Luck
I found two relays, one on the fire wall in the center that feeds power to the glow plugs and one on the starter that goes for the intake heater.
I'm sorry I couldnt give you better info that that. Good Luck
#11
you can get some help here: mazda diesel - Home
now for the gritty.
the glow circuit runs 12v when you turn on the key. your fuel circuit also energizes.
after three seconds the controller turns off the 12v glow circuit and the 6-7 volt circuit continues, only if you have all three of the following the clutch pressed (if in gear), under 5 mph or under 160'f engine temp. if any of the three above aren't met you no longer have glow power.
the controller box is no longer available, but with the above description a electronic wiz could build one for you.
o.k. for the power relays, one above the starter and one on the firewall. is for the 12volt and 7 volt glow circuits.
the intake heater uses the full 12 volt source.
the cold start cable is used to advance the injection timing for cold starts and fast idle. it is just a locking cable connected to the fuel pump/injection pump combo.
this injection system does not need a fuel pump. as the injection pump sucks the fuel from the tank. if you use a electric fuel pump the injection pump and fuel filter assy will develop leaks. a cheap but timely repair.
you will need the diesel transmission from a mazda or ranger diesel. or you can install a first gen rx-7 transmission. the shifter will end up in a different position. i think closer to the seat.
you will need the extented cab front springs, as the motor weighs over 700 lbs.
and i would recommend keeping the air pressure at 36 psi in the front for passinger tires.
you may need the front end alined as well due to the weight and or new springs.
you will need at battery with at least 950 cold cranking amps and six volt cables. i would use two smaller batteries. like the factory used. the starter is a hard one to find, rebuilts are usually over $250 i've gone through three in the last five years. the ranger four speed has issues as well. plan on rebuilding it every 80,000 miles. the ranger/mazda 5 speed is reliable. but you will need 3.90/4.10 gears with the 5 speed or the rx-7 transmission. the 4 speed comes with 3.73 rear gears.
if you complete this swap you will have between 56-59 hp, and about 80-85 ft lbs torque. many owners average in the high 20's for mileage. i'm lighter on the throttle and average 30-35 highway (under 65 mph). i usually drive at 63. remember this truck/engine combo was made for a 55 mph speed limit.
i have my passinger mirror adjusted so i can see when the engine starts smoking when merging or putting a load on the engine. as it will blow black smoke.
(no turbo). these engines with proper care will last 3/4 of a million + miles.
also i have a two tank fuel system, factory tank is diesel/bio-diesel... the rear tank is clean recycled veg oil/diesel/bio-diesel. using a solenoid valve to switch tanks and fuel sending units.
the rear tank fuel is heated with engine coolant and a electric pre heater connected with the factory cold weather fuel preheating system.
i think i've covered a few items, if you still desire to do this mod, look over the link i posted, and or send questions to me or member of the other site.
cc
now for the gritty.
the glow circuit runs 12v when you turn on the key. your fuel circuit also energizes.
after three seconds the controller turns off the 12v glow circuit and the 6-7 volt circuit continues, only if you have all three of the following the clutch pressed (if in gear), under 5 mph or under 160'f engine temp. if any of the three above aren't met you no longer have glow power.
the controller box is no longer available, but with the above description a electronic wiz could build one for you.
o.k. for the power relays, one above the starter and one on the firewall. is for the 12volt and 7 volt glow circuits.
the intake heater uses the full 12 volt source.
the cold start cable is used to advance the injection timing for cold starts and fast idle. it is just a locking cable connected to the fuel pump/injection pump combo.
this injection system does not need a fuel pump. as the injection pump sucks the fuel from the tank. if you use a electric fuel pump the injection pump and fuel filter assy will develop leaks. a cheap but timely repair.
you will need the diesel transmission from a mazda or ranger diesel. or you can install a first gen rx-7 transmission. the shifter will end up in a different position. i think closer to the seat.
you will need the extented cab front springs, as the motor weighs over 700 lbs.
and i would recommend keeping the air pressure at 36 psi in the front for passinger tires.
you may need the front end alined as well due to the weight and or new springs.
you will need at battery with at least 950 cold cranking amps and six volt cables. i would use two smaller batteries. like the factory used. the starter is a hard one to find, rebuilts are usually over $250 i've gone through three in the last five years. the ranger four speed has issues as well. plan on rebuilding it every 80,000 miles. the ranger/mazda 5 speed is reliable. but you will need 3.90/4.10 gears with the 5 speed or the rx-7 transmission. the 4 speed comes with 3.73 rear gears.
if you complete this swap you will have between 56-59 hp, and about 80-85 ft lbs torque. many owners average in the high 20's for mileage. i'm lighter on the throttle and average 30-35 highway (under 65 mph). i usually drive at 63. remember this truck/engine combo was made for a 55 mph speed limit.
i have my passinger mirror adjusted so i can see when the engine starts smoking when merging or putting a load on the engine. as it will blow black smoke.
(no turbo). these engines with proper care will last 3/4 of a million + miles.
also i have a two tank fuel system, factory tank is diesel/bio-diesel... the rear tank is clean recycled veg oil/diesel/bio-diesel. using a solenoid valve to switch tanks and fuel sending units.
the rear tank fuel is heated with engine coolant and a electric pre heater connected with the factory cold weather fuel preheating system.
i think i've covered a few items, if you still desire to do this mod, look over the link i posted, and or send questions to me or member of the other site.
cc
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