Intake gasket replacement
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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Intake gasket replacement
I'm replacing my intake gasket this weekend. I don't have a Haynes manual. Can someone who has one look and see if there are specific torque numbers for the intake, or if I just tighten the bolts to where I like it. Thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
My Chiltons reads 23-25 ft.-lbs. And remember to start in the middle and work your way outward in a "circular" or "spiral" pattern. Also make sure to run the sequence at least 3 times- tightening one bolt can loosen the bolt next to it. Ideally by the 3rd time you will be getting the proper torque reading [or a click if you have that type of wrench] immediately.
PS I'm assuming you meant the truck in your sig, so that's what I posted for.
PS I'm assuming you meant the truck in your sig, so that's what I posted for.
Trailering
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Sioux Falls South Dakota
There are a couple of ways to go. U defintly need to torque the intake bolts correctly anda t the right torque as far as the manuels I myself never have liked haynes manuels never detailed enough there saying is if this isnt enough info then u need to take it to a professional mechanic. If u can purchase a Chilton manual then do it. They have all the complete steps and torque specs. They are also a lot more detailed. If u cant purchase a manual then the next step I would do is go your local libary and have them copy the section needed. Also u possibly could purchase a online manual and then print pages as u need them which makes it nice so U always have a clean and legiable manual.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
The fuel rail isn't difficult. First make sure the pressure is bled off.
You will need a fuel line disconnect tool- see below links for two possible options. Be aware that the springs can be "seized" to a point so they might not break off right away. I found light tapping on my disconnect tool with a pair of pliers did the trick after giving some PB blaster a few minutes to soak.
Once the lines are off, there's 4 bolts- 2 to each side- to be removed. Once those are out, the fuel rail should basically just lift off. I can't remember if the injectors will come with it or not- doesn't much matter. The injectors really aren't that tight of a fit into the manifold- they're good and snug, that's about it. I would recommend new o-rings for them tho, when you're ready to reinstall.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0044&ppt=C0052
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0044&ppt=C0052
You will need a fuel line disconnect tool- see below links for two possible options. Be aware that the springs can be "seized" to a point so they might not break off right away. I found light tapping on my disconnect tool with a pair of pliers did the trick after giving some PB blaster a few minutes to soak.
Once the lines are off, there's 4 bolts- 2 to each side- to be removed. Once those are out, the fuel rail should basically just lift off. I can't remember if the injectors will come with it or not- doesn't much matter. The injectors really aren't that tight of a fit into the manifold- they're good and snug, that's about it. I would recommend new o-rings for them tho, when you're ready to reinstall.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0044&ppt=C0052
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0044&ppt=C0052
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Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
The fuel rail isn't difficult. First make sure the pressure is bled off.
You will need a fuel line disconnect tool- see below links for two possible options. Be aware that the springs can be "seized" to a point so they might not break off right away. I found light tapping on my disconnect tool with a pair of pliers did the trick after giving some PB blaster a few minutes to soak.
Once the lines are off, there's 4 bolts- 2 to each side- to be removed. Once those are out, the fuel rail should basically just lift off. I can't remember if the injectors will come with it or not- doesn't much matter. The injectors really aren't that tight of a fit into the manifold- they're good and snug, that's about it. I would recommend new o-rings for them tho, when you're ready to reinstall.
Wilmar W83148 - Disconnect Tool | O'Reilly Auto Parts
OTC 7660 - Spg Loc Tool | O'Reilly Auto Parts
You will need a fuel line disconnect tool- see below links for two possible options. Be aware that the springs can be "seized" to a point so they might not break off right away. I found light tapping on my disconnect tool with a pair of pliers did the trick after giving some PB blaster a few minutes to soak.
Once the lines are off, there's 4 bolts- 2 to each side- to be removed. Once those are out, the fuel rail should basically just lift off. I can't remember if the injectors will come with it or not- doesn't much matter. The injectors really aren't that tight of a fit into the manifold- they're good and snug, that's about it. I would recommend new o-rings for them tho, when you're ready to reinstall.
Wilmar W83148 - Disconnect Tool | O'Reilly Auto Parts
OTC 7660 - Spg Loc Tool | O'Reilly Auto Parts
