I was looking to buy my roller lifters from Comp Cams and they list two kinds for the 400. Type one has the arm between two lifters, the other is a "retro fit" with a spider type holder to keep the lifter from turning in the bore. Which one is the RIGHT one for a 1977 400.

 

Link bar will be easier. the arm between the two lifters/link bar. both will work but link bar less pieces. I'm doing a 400 ford with roller cam and went with link bar for simplicity.

 

Thanks Wyoming, just wondering, cause the link bar lifters are $400.00 and the other ones are $220.00 plus the retro kit. John

 

Works out the same go with link bars

 

How are you setting up your vavletrain pushrod geometry?? Probably gonna need a adjustable pushrod to finetune you pushrods to valvestem pattern check. any questions drop a message. Just spoke with a guy on this in FE engine in 1970 ford truck site. adios amigo

 

Thanks Wyoming. Yes, I'll be using an ajustable push rod and if I run into any probs I'll definetly give you a jingle. John

 

My rule of thumb is.

If it is over .600" valve lift and/or over 6000 RPM range, we use the tie bar system.

Anything under, we use the 5.0 Ford "spider" system. For all the 400 we do, the 5.0 system has worked out most of the time.

The tie bars sell for about $380, the 5.0 lifters and re-tro kit sells for about $170.

 

Tim,
what do you use to find proper push rod length with the link bar lifters? Have you made a "solid" version so it doesn't compress? if so, can you supply something like this?

 

I have another question for you Tim. On my 77 400, my machinest says there isn't enough materal to drill and tap for the 5.0 lifter kit without getting into the cam bearing. That's the only reason I'm going with the link bar lifter. The cam I chose is a Comp Cams custom grind with .555 lift @.050 and the engine won't be twisted more than 5500. Is what he is telling me right or is there something that we are both misunderstanding. An e-mail to him would be greatly appreciated. enginesfromhal.com Many thanks. John

 

the adjustable push rod is to find your proper rocker arm geometry and proper pattern on top of valve stem. Once you find you correct setup then you order actual pushrods for engine in your application. measure the adjustable pushrod then order your new pushrods for intakes/exhaust. catch you later.

 

I just had the 5.0 style with spiders, and tray installed in my 400 two weeks ago. Machine shop said he was suprised how easy it was to retro fit. Has .565 lift comp cam, went with 5.0 style because of how relieable, and long they have lasted in mild 5.0 engines. also cheaper if you don't have a huge lift cam

 

Brad...Here is what I do, keep in mind this has been argued over many times so far.

Based on a pedestal rocker arms, I turn the engine over until the lifters are on the base circle. With the rockers arms torque down, I take an adjustable push rod and adjust it out to a zero lash. I then the out the push rod, measure it and add .050" to the length. We have push rods made for us in .050" increments, so it is easy to pull them off the shelf and try them. If the machinist keeps the installed stem height within specs, geometry is very close. This is where we would shim it a little if it was needed. Remember if you shim it, you do lose some lifter preload.

John...almost every 400 we build uses the 5.0 lifter system. Very easy to install the system.

 

What are they worth Tim? I had a quick look on your website a while back but couldn't find aything. What does it take to install i.e. do the lifter bores need sleeveing etc? Could you with the right taps/drill do it yourself, or do you need specialised machining gear?

 

Here is what we do with our customers. This is probably a typical kit & items.

Comp Cam hyd roller cam, shelf number or custom same price $285
Hyd. lifters & re-tro fit kit $170
our push rods are about $70 a set.
Scorpion pedestal rocker arms $257
We send our customers an adjustable push rod with the order, they proceed checking the length as I outlined on this thread. They then will mail us the push rod and we measure the length and select the push rods from our stock.

Install the cam temporarily, mock up the lifters, "dog bones" & spider. Drill the (2) 1/4" holes. Watch the depth of the 1/4" hole not the hit the cam bearings. WATCH the corner lifter "dog bones" the dog bones may contact the block and not allow the bones to sit flat. We made a tool so we can spot face the lifter bore on all the block we do. We install 1/4" studs in the holes, then stack 2 washers and then the spider. We then locktite the nut. The washers prevent the spider from being compressed to far. Look at a 5.0 block and you will see a small "bump" in these locations. I am considering making a few "How to" videos on this procedure and setting the lifter preload with pedestal rocker arms and stud mount.

 

My heads have screw in studs - will that make a difference in the procedure you outlined here?