Dead water temp gauge
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Dead water temp gauge
Read a couple threads on here but can't find much information..
Water temp gauge on my '96 e250 4.9L straight 6 hasn't worked since i got the van.
Figured it was the temp sensor. Replaced that yesterday, still no change.
Does anyone know how I could go about testing the gauge itself?
Is there another sender/sensor that feeds the gauge?
Thanks in advance
Water temp gauge on my '96 e250 4.9L straight 6 hasn't worked since i got the van.
Figured it was the temp sensor. Replaced that yesterday, still no change.
Does anyone know how I could go about testing the gauge itself?
Is there another sender/sensor that feeds the gauge?
Thanks in advance
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to test the gage and wiring together, i like to connect one side of a test light to the sender wire, and the other end to a ground. the gage should show a reading somewhere in the mid-range, or ground the wire directly and the reading should be the upper limit of the gage.
if this fails, remove the instrument cluster, attach a hot lead to one of the 2 posts on the gage, and repeat the above procedure using the other post of the gage instead of the sender wire.
if this fails, remove the instrument cluster, attach a hot lead to one of the 2 posts on the gage, and repeat the above procedure using the other post of the gage instead of the sender wire.
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to test the gage and wiring together, i like to connect one side of a test light to the sender wire, and the other end to a ground. the gage should show a reading somewhere in the mid-range, or ground the wire directly and the reading should be the upper limit of the gage.
if this fails, remove the instrument cluster, attach a hot lead to one of the 2 posts on the gage, and repeat the above procedure using the other post of the gage instead of the sender wire.
if this fails, remove the instrument cluster, attach a hot lead to one of the 2 posts on the gage, and repeat the above procedure using the other post of the gage instead of the sender wire.
when you say put a test light, could i just use a piece of wire? test light is long gone :/ and which wire.. theres two in the plug, just try both i'm assuming.
im starting to think the gauge itself is bad.
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"test light is long gone" - attach wires to ANY 12v light bulb and you have a test light, doesn't matter if its an old taillight socket, or simply solder on a bulb. the reasons we prefer it over just wire is 1) feedback 2) safety - you aren't likely to blow any circuits or electronics with a single light bulb, whereas a straight wire will blow things.
i was thinking it was an old-style 1-wire sender, in which case it would be grounded to the engine block. IIRC, your 2-wire sender should be able to be minipulated by simply shorting the 2 pins of its wire harness with your test light (or wire if nothing else is available), and doing so should cause the gage to read at its upper limit. however, i'm not dead sure on that, it could be that 1 wire goes to the gage and the other to the computer, so try it both ways, and something should have the gage spike when you ground it.
i was thinking it was an old-style 1-wire sender, in which case it would be grounded to the engine block. IIRC, your 2-wire sender should be able to be minipulated by simply shorting the 2 pins of its wire harness with your test light (or wire if nothing else is available), and doing so should cause the gage to read at its upper limit. however, i'm not dead sure on that, it could be that 1 wire goes to the gage and the other to the computer, so try it both ways, and something should have the gage spike when you ground it.
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yeah i shorted the two pins of the plug together with a piece of wire and the gauge didn't move. i'll try messing around with a test light tomorrow after work and will post back with results. i think i read that the ECU gets its water temp signal from a different sender. i guess it doesnt really matter if the gauge works or not. :/
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seeing that your truck is a 96, simply plug in your OBD2 code scanner, go into the data stream side of things, and ask it what the coolant temp is, if the sensor for the computer is bad, you'll either get a reading of -40 or somewhere upwards of 260 (exact reading depends on current voltage), maybe even unplug the sensor with the computer on it to be sure if thats the gage sensor or the computer sensor
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seeing that your truck is a 96, simply plug in your OBD2 code scanner, go into the data stream side of things, and ask it what the coolant temp is, if the sensor for the computer is bad, you'll either get a reading of -40 or somewhere upwards of 260 (exact reading depends on current voltage), maybe even unplug the sensor with the computer on it to be sure if thats the gage sensor or the computer sensor
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seeing that your truck is a 96, simply plug in your OBD2 code scanner, go into the data stream side of things, and ask it what the coolant temp is, if the sensor for the computer is bad, you'll either get a reading of -40 or somewhere upwards of 260 (exact reading depends on current voltage), maybe even unplug the sensor with the computer on it to be sure if thats the gage sensor or the computer sensor
i tried that.. i think my obd2 scanner is too cheap. doesnt show coolant temp in there. if i was on good terms with that one ex i could use her $2500 snap on obd2 scanner
rofl.i'll mess around with a test light tonight and see what i find. going to try grounding both pins of the connector and then try shorting them together again. need to wait till someone gets home to watch the gauge for me.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Having gone through this almost exact same situation on a '97 E250 I learned the hard way it requires replacing the entire gauge cluster. Its vitally important to get the same year as there it does make a huge difference.
With too much time on my hands I did learn these clusters can be "repaired" but it still requires another gauge cluster only this time within a year or so of original manufacture. It ain't easy but not impossible and requires a bit of time not to mention patience.
I'll save y'all the details what happens when the wrong year and fuel type clusters in interchanged!
With too much time on my hands I did learn these clusters can be "repaired" but it still requires another gauge cluster only this time within a year or so of original manufacture. It ain't easy but not impossible and requires a bit of time not to mention patience.
I'll save y'all the details what happens when the wrong year and fuel type clusters in interchanged!
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Having gone through this almost exact same situation on a '97 E250 I learned the hard way it requires replacing the entire gauge cluster. Its vitally important to get the same year as there it does make a huge difference.
With too much time on my hands I did learn these clusters can be "repaired" but it still requires another gauge cluster only this time within a year or so of original manufacture. It ain't easy but not impossible and requires a bit of time not to mention patience.
I'll save y'all the details what happens when the wrong year and fuel type clusters in interchanged!
With too much time on my hands I did learn these clusters can be "repaired" but it still requires another gauge cluster only this time within a year or so of original manufacture. It ain't easy but not impossible and requires a bit of time not to mention patience.
I'll save y'all the details what happens when the wrong year and fuel type clusters in interchanged!
Also.. when removing the cluster. What the heck is that little string type thing that I couldn't figure out how to remove without breaking it? It goes into the bottom of the cluster and then is looped over something under the dash. Any tips?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Wow----you're in for a treat my friend! LOL
That little string thing is the shift lever indicator attaching to a little hook on the shift tube inside the column--it pulls the needle as you move from P>R>N>D>2>1 ect. Typically you need to remove the column shroud.
What I did was to take the clusters apart and simply transfer the green flexible circuit board AND the little hard circuit board from the non-working cluster over to the new-to-you one. Its not that difficult but does require a lot of careful handling to avoid damaging these parts.
There is a way to configure the odometer on the new-to-you cluster so its accurate mileage wise but that takes a lot of trial and error. Honestly I'd suggest just noting somewhere the existing mileage visible so you can calculate the real total miles driven. Its far far easier this way unless (like me) you're **** about such minor things.
Hope this even begins to help!
That little string thing is the shift lever indicator attaching to a little hook on the shift tube inside the column--it pulls the needle as you move from P>R>N>D>2>1 ect. Typically you need to remove the column shroud.
What I did was to take the clusters apart and simply transfer the green flexible circuit board AND the little hard circuit board from the non-working cluster over to the new-to-you one. Its not that difficult but does require a lot of careful handling to avoid damaging these parts.
There is a way to configure the odometer on the new-to-you cluster so its accurate mileage wise but that takes a lot of trial and error. Honestly I'd suggest just noting somewhere the existing mileage visible so you can calculate the real total miles driven. Its far far easier this way unless (like me) you're **** about such minor things.
Hope this even begins to help!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 7
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Wow----you're in for a treat my friend! LOL
That little string thing is the shift lever indicator attaching to a little hook on the shift tube inside the column--it pulls the needle as you move from P>R>N>D>2>1 ect. Typically you need to remove the column shroud.
What I did was to take the clusters apart and simply transfer the green flexible circuit board AND the little hard circuit board from the non-working cluster over to the new-to-you one. Its not that difficult but does require a lot of careful handling to avoid damaging these parts.
There is a way to configure the odometer on the new-to-you cluster so its accurate mileage wise but that takes a lot of trial and error. Honestly I'd suggest just noting somewhere the existing mileage visible so you can calculate the real total miles driven. Its far far easier this way unless (like me) you're **** about such minor things.
Hope this even begins to help!
That little string thing is the shift lever indicator attaching to a little hook on the shift tube inside the column--it pulls the needle as you move from P>R>N>D>2>1 ect. Typically you need to remove the column shroud.
What I did was to take the clusters apart and simply transfer the green flexible circuit board AND the little hard circuit board from the non-working cluster over to the new-to-you one. Its not that difficult but does require a lot of careful handling to avoid damaging these parts.
There is a way to configure the odometer on the new-to-you cluster so its accurate mileage wise but that takes a lot of trial and error. Honestly I'd suggest just noting somewhere the existing mileage visible so you can calculate the real total miles driven. Its far far easier this way unless (like me) you're **** about such minor things.
Hope this even begins to help!
And yes I don't really care about the mileage. I am hoping whichever one I get has less than 180k miles so I can pretend in my head that I have lower miles :rofl: :rofl: Wish there was a way I could check in the yard how many miles they have
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
If you can simply unhook that string you'd be better off---might make things easier and be one less thing you'll have to transfer or repair.
Instead of wandering a self-serve yard why not hit FleaBay or search the outfit known as LKQ Online? They both have skads of available parts possbily the exact year of your current van. I've used them both to great success; point, click and wait for the part to arrive. They'll typically have generous return/exchange policies so not much of a down side seeking parts that way.
As much as I once enjoyed tromping around a muddy scrap yard fighting every other searcher for sometimes the same thing as me once the internet became so easy to find and purchase I loathe those days now!
Instead of wandering a self-serve yard why not hit FleaBay or search the outfit known as LKQ Online? They both have skads of available parts possbily the exact year of your current van. I've used them both to great success; point, click and wait for the part to arrive. They'll typically have generous return/exchange policies so not much of a down side seeking parts that way.
As much as I once enjoyed tromping around a muddy scrap yard fighting every other searcher for sometimes the same thing as me once the internet became so easy to find and purchase I loathe those days now!
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Mar 2011
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Instead of wandering a self-serve yard why not hit FleaBay or search the outfit known as LKQ Online? They both have skads of available parts possbily the exact year of your current van. I've used them both to great success; point, click and wait for the part to arrive. They'll typically have generous return/exchange policies so not much of a down side seeking parts that way.
As much as I once enjoyed tromping around a muddy scrap yard fighting every other searcher for sometimes the same thing as me once the internet became so easy to find and purchase I loathe those days now!
As much as I once enjoyed tromping around a muddy scrap yard fighting every other searcher for sometimes the same thing as me once the internet became so easy to find and purchase I loathe those days now!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Gotta disagree completely there Mr Cloead! The same issues you think you'll find online are even more present with any salvage yard. In my experience those online tend to be far more accurate with what they actually have due computerized inventories that are updated if an item sells.
I've yet to pay more than $50 for a working used gauge cluster AND IF the part doesn't work its 100% returnable for exchange or refund. Maybe in your area suitable year Econolines are plentiful but here locally even the pre-92's are scarce.
Not trying to sway you towards my way but its just much easier to hunt, click and wait for UPS than repeat to any yard hoping your part is there.
I've yet to pay more than $50 for a working used gauge cluster AND IF the part doesn't work its 100% returnable for exchange or refund. Maybe in your area suitable year Econolines are plentiful but here locally even the pre-92's are scarce.
Not trying to sway you towards my way but its just much easier to hunt, click and wait for UPS than repeat to any yard hoping your part is there.
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