1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

48-52 Seat belt anchor points

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  #16  
Old 03-18-2011, 01:03 PM
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Here's a shot of the back of a 51-52 cab. No upper brace at the top of the rear window opening. I never noticed that. Learn something new everyday from this group.

 
  #17  
Old 03-18-2011, 02:12 PM
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To be honest, if I were a Darksider, I'd buy some modern buckets that have the shoulder harness integral to the seat. I don't know if they would be too thick tho (reducing clearance to the wheel).
 
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:38 PM
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I don’t think the upper shoulder harness bracket has to be terribly complicated. Here are some that I fabricated, drilled a hole in some scrap 3/16, weld a nut to the back and bent in the vise. Welded them in. These where some before and after pictures, showing my acid rust remover, from a previous post.

I have a poor picture of it installed for anyone masochistic enough to ask for it.
 
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  #19  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:49 PM
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My 49 has the brace at the top and bottom of the back glass. Cool, makes it easy for me to fab an upper anchor point. I'm guessing that when they ghanged to the big window they got rid of the upper brace.

Looking at the floor of the cab, I thank that raised channel on the floor right in front of the gas tank (or where the gas tank used to be) is a prime spot for some belts.

Thanks again
Bobby
 
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Old F1
I don’t think the upper shoulder harness bracket has to be terribly complicated. Here are some that I fabricated, drilled a hole in some scrap 3/16, weld a nut to the back and bent in the vise. Welded them in.
That is exactly what I was going to do, make some plates like yours. Then one day I got to looking at my junk and realised that spare brace I had laying around, already bent and formed to the proper shape would work perfect.
 
  #21  
Old 03-18-2011, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
To be honest, if I were a Darksider, I'd buy some modern buckets that have the shoulder harness integral to the seat. I don't know if they would be too thick tho (reducing clearance to the wheel).
The only problem with that idea Ross is that you're stuck with tall seat backs. I for one don't like it when you can see the seatbacks through the back glass.

I remembered that I have a supply of 6"x11gauge flat bar left over from when I boxed my frame. I that if I make a couple of curved pieces to fit to those curved braces and add my fabbed anchor points behind it I should be good to go for a 3 point system.

Bobby
 
  #22  
Old 03-19-2011, 10:17 AM
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Bobby, I bought my belts from Julianos, and got the mounting kits, too. My floor mounts are in that spot in front of the gas tank. Like Ross said, there are several layers of steel right there. If you use the mounting plates from Julianos, you should be safe. All their hard ware seems to be good quality. Position the reel assy carefully on the floor as it would be easy for the stock seat to foul the belt. My upper mount is in the window brace area using left over 10 guage frame boxing sheet. I tucked it behind the door surround and welded it to everything. The post is 5 1/2" above the bottom brace, using the julianos mount behind the 10 gauge. I got my measurements from sitting in my suburban and measuring how far above my shoulder the belts were in that. Mock it up and make sure it won't chaff on you neck or your wifes. (Didn't get to meet her, BTW, harumph!) If you install a center seat belt for grand kids, you might want to get the slightly longer center belt.
 
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:05 AM
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Braked metal

Bobby;

I got 3/16 " metal braked at 1" intervals to fit contour of cab, much like others have suggested, welded to cab bracing. I haven't installed the floor brackets yet but location will be bolted along door post and floor.

 
  #24  
Old 03-19-2011, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tip49
Bobby;

I got 3/16 " metal braked at 1" intervals to fit contour of cab, much like others have suggested, welded to cab bracing. I haven't installed the floor brackets yet but location will be bolted along door post and floor.

I'm planning on making my shoulder belt mounts this exact same way.
 
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Old 03-19-2011, 02:19 PM
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I fabricated my upper mount very similar to others. I would add that you want to make sure that the rolled plate is jammed firmly into the door post such that the post works to take the load, not just the relatively flimsy horizontal braces.
 
  #26  
Old 03-20-2011, 08:40 PM
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No upper brace in the 56 either. These are the mid fifty brackets.

 
  #27  
Old 03-21-2011, 12:13 PM
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Hey BACAgrizz - can you tell us what gauge the mid-fifty plates are made of? I'm not a auto engineer but seems like 3/16" or even 1/8" plate is a bit heavy for this. These trucks have no crumple zone (especially after we box the frame and fabricate bracing that's five time heavier than it needs to be) and stiff seat belt anchor points are going to make the impact even worse. Still, a lab belt with shoulder strap has gota be a ton safer than OEM.
 
  #28  
Old 03-21-2011, 12:49 PM
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At work now. I'll measure it when I get home this evening.
 
  #29  
Old 03-21-2011, 05:19 PM
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Well, I fabricated some anchors over the weekend and have a basic lap belt installed. (this will allow me to hit the local drag strip for a test and tune day)

I got to looking at the 49 cab and the 2 braces above and below the back glass. My first thoughts were to fab up a large curve panel like the ones pictured. After looking at it I think I'll use some 3/16x3 or 3/16x2 1/2 flat bar right up agains the door post. I don't want to put it behind the braces as I think it would sit too far back so I think I can notch the braces and insert the flat bar into the braces.. It sounds a little funky but I think it will work.

I'll take pics once I start on it. It probably won't be for several weeks though.
Thanks again for all the input
Bobby
 
  #30  
Old 03-21-2011, 06:33 PM
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Bobby, I think you want the post right behind the door, with the sheet tucked behind the door jam, like willard said. You can weld to the window braces, and plug weld into the door jam. A good weld from the plate to the window braces should be fine. The weak link in this case would be the window braces, and you're stuck with that. Alot of sheet and weld would have to fail for that mount to be a problem.
 


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