Randy Jack gallery!!!
#1
Randy Jack gallery!!!
On the last pic...in your bed widening project...the description reads;
"I designed each of the new parts to be easy to fab. All are 16-gage.<O</O
The bed walls (RH is shown) are a common flat pattern just formed left and right.
I left out the fender attach stud holes in order to transfer them from the bed later for a perfect fit. <O</O
Some edges had 1/16” excess material in order to trim them net to the bed."
It's the LAST sentence the I'm confused about......
"I designed each of the new parts to be easy to fab. All are 16-gage.<O</O
The bed walls (RH is shown) are a common flat pattern just formed left and right.
I left out the fender attach stud holes in order to transfer them from the bed later for a perfect fit. <O</O
Some edges had 1/16” excess material in order to trim them net to the bed."
It's the LAST sentence the I'm confused about......
Could you clarify this statement for me...please...???
Thanks...I'm still unclear how this thing was done...BUT...it sure does look
GREAT!!!......
GREAT!!!......
-
#2
Very nice - and unique
link below to the referenced photo
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=72209&width=0
link below to the referenced photo
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=72209&width=0
#3
Okey Dokie... (and thanks for asking). I did this 6 years ago, so I'll have to wake up those gray cells.
This is the right (pass) bed wall. It basically goes over the post sockets and attaches (welds) to the bottom of upper bed roll. Notice the flange on its right (front) end. At the forward bed post socket, there's a space in front of the post that creates a notch to the fwd bed wall. The new wall has to cover the post, the fwd gap, then turn into the fwd wall to (weld) attach. That edge is net trim, although the flange is 3 inches wide.
The upper edge of the wall is bent at 45 degrees to intersect the bed roll. It is net trim.
The rear vertical edge (pic left) will weld flush to the rear edge of the rear post socket. That end has excess trim to make sure it flushes.
The lower left horizontal edge is extended to meet the bottom of the fender, It has a 1/2" wide flange turned in to finish that edge.
The right end lower horizontal wall trim is excess trim where I will attach the running board vertical wall.
Here is that vertical wall welded into the bed sidewall.
In order to attach the fender and rigidize that area, I used tube spacers. Each is 3/8 OD X 2" long with 5/16-24 thread in each end. The tubes go over the welded-in bed studs, a set screw gets lock-tited into the outer end, and the bed wall covers all that. The fender installs as usual.
Here's a pic of the tubes without the bedwall:
I Hope this clears it up some. Thanks for the fan mail, Rockher_Man!
You can PM me for more info......
This is the right (pass) bed wall. It basically goes over the post sockets and attaches (welds) to the bottom of upper bed roll. Notice the flange on its right (front) end. At the forward bed post socket, there's a space in front of the post that creates a notch to the fwd bed wall. The new wall has to cover the post, the fwd gap, then turn into the fwd wall to (weld) attach. That edge is net trim, although the flange is 3 inches wide.
The upper edge of the wall is bent at 45 degrees to intersect the bed roll. It is net trim.
The rear vertical edge (pic left) will weld flush to the rear edge of the rear post socket. That end has excess trim to make sure it flushes.
The lower left horizontal edge is extended to meet the bottom of the fender, It has a 1/2" wide flange turned in to finish that edge.
The right end lower horizontal wall trim is excess trim where I will attach the running board vertical wall.
Here is that vertical wall welded into the bed sidewall.
In order to attach the fender and rigidize that area, I used tube spacers. Each is 3/8 OD X 2" long with 5/16-24 thread in each end. The tubes go over the welded-in bed studs, a set screw gets lock-tited into the outer end, and the bed wall covers all that. The fender installs as usual.
Here's a pic of the tubes without the bedwall:
I Hope this clears it up some. Thanks for the fan mail, Rockher_Man!
You can PM me for more info......
#4
#5
And BTW, thanks again for those Eldo Repair Manual copies. I stripped my eldo interior of all kinds of goodies that will find their way into the truck.
#6
I think...
...therefore...I am....sure that I almost got it.......
....so this piece...
...is the "new" outer skin that covers ALL the aforementioned post sockets
and tube spacers, and... welded-in bed studs... & all the rest....???
Am I on the right track...yet?.........man, I gotta be gettin' close...
The 3/8" OD X 2" long with 5/16-24 thread in each end...Cleo's???
Tubes go over the welded-in bed studs....homemade????
A set screw gets lock-tited into the outer end...THRU the "tube"...???
THIS pic.....
"The new plywood floor was fitted."
Just a "plain-ol'-plywood floor"....BEFORE the Herculiner???.......
WHAT is on the interior bed-walls in the following photos?
Did the INSIDE dimentions of your truck bed stay the SAME?
Maybe THAT is what's confusing me on this one......
-
....so this piece...
...is the "new" outer skin that covers ALL the aforementioned post sockets
and tube spacers, and... welded-in bed studs... & all the rest....???
Am I on the right track...yet?.........man, I gotta be gettin' close...
The 3/8" OD X 2" long with 5/16-24 thread in each end...Cleo's???
Tubes go over the welded-in bed studs....homemade????
A set screw gets lock-tited into the outer end...THRU the "tube"...???
THIS pic.....
"The new plywood floor was fitted."
Just a "plain-ol'-plywood floor"....BEFORE the Herculiner???.......
WHAT is on the interior bed-walls in the following photos?
Did the INSIDE dimentions of your truck bed stay the SAME?
Maybe THAT is what's confusing me on this one......
-
#7
All mods were to the outside of the bed.
Yes, that wall is a second skin that covers the bed side. The fenders move outboard when attached to it.
The 3/8 tubes are just threaded about 3/4" into each end. If you find a tap long enough, you could tap thru. Don't know what "Cleos" are. Yes, the tubes are home made. You could use thread stock in the outer end instead of set screws. I was just tired of cutting stuff.
Yes, the bed floor is one piece of plywood. 1/2" thick (I think). I used Herculiner on all the bed interior surfaces. I also coated all surfaces of the plywood (including underneath). I was looking for rugged utility. I always planned on a tonneau to cover the bed.
The inside dimensions of the bed are stock dims.
Yes, that wall is a second skin that covers the bed side. The fenders move outboard when attached to it.
The 3/8 tubes are just threaded about 3/4" into each end. If you find a tap long enough, you could tap thru. Don't know what "Cleos" are. Yes, the tubes are home made. You could use thread stock in the outer end instead of set screws. I was just tired of cutting stuff.
Yes, the bed floor is one piece of plywood. 1/2" thick (I think). I used Herculiner on all the bed interior surfaces. I also coated all surfaces of the plywood (including underneath). I was looking for rugged utility. I always planned on a tonneau to cover the bed.
The inside dimensions of the bed are stock dims.
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#9
#11
OK...
...got it!
I guess I didn't get a real good look down the side of the truck...
Makes sense now......
Thanks for yor patience...I really appreciate it...I did not realize those
tires were that wide....I'm gonna take another set of measurements to
triple-check...
I'd like to see IF I could try some of your engineering and keep everything
on the same outside plane...
...even if I need to shave 1-2" off of the rear
fenders.....
I'll keep ya posted!!!
Again...Thanks much brother...
-
I guess I didn't get a real good look down the side of the truck...
Makes sense now......
Thanks for yor patience...I really appreciate it...I did not realize those
tires were that wide....I'm gonna take another set of measurements to
triple-check...
I'd like to see IF I could try some of your engineering and keep everything
on the same outside plane...
...even if I need to shave 1-2" off of the rear
fenders.....
I'll keep ya posted!!!
Again...Thanks much brother...
-
#12
Inside of bed wall...?
Got it....thanks again !....the only thing I'm wondering is...
Are these panels "mounted" to the INNER bed sides a seperate piece for
a specific purpose?
Is this "mounting-stud" temporary?
The "ridge" created here...does the entire tonneau cover rest ON this when closed?
Did you fabricate a seperate "gap-hider" piece to close-up everything
between the rear surface of the CAB & the leading-edge of the box
down by the running board?....
Do you have a picture of you truck BEFORE this work was done?
I'm wondering how it looked with these monster tires and wheels installed
with everything as ol' Henry intended......
And I think I can figure the rest out from there......I hope...
Thanks again...
-
Are these panels "mounted" to the INNER bed sides a seperate piece for
a specific purpose?
Is this "mounting-stud" temporary?
The "ridge" created here...does the entire tonneau cover rest ON this when closed?
Did you fabricate a seperate "gap-hider" piece to close-up everything
between the rear surface of the CAB & the leading-edge of the box
down by the running board?....
Do you have a picture of you truck BEFORE this work was done?
I'm wondering how it looked with these monster tires and wheels installed
with everything as ol' Henry intended......
And I think I can figure the rest out from there......I hope...
Thanks again...
-
#13
I'm not sure what your first question is. That view is looking at the driver front corner of the bed and shows the filled post socket area with a smoothed corner and tonneau support angle. The "mounting stud" you refer to is a cleco temporarily holding the angle (ridge).
As to the "gap hider", that is simply the running board vertical panel with a reshaped front edge. Se my album on running board mods.
The only pictures I have before any work was done are in the "Randy's 56" album. If you cruise thru the rest of my albums, I'm sure a lot of these things will come together for you.
As to the "gap hider", that is simply the running board vertical panel with a reshaped front edge. Se my album on running board mods.
The only pictures I have before any work was done are in the "Randy's 56" album. If you cruise thru the rest of my albums, I'm sure a lot of these things will come together for you.
#14
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
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Got it....thanks again !....the only thing I'm wondering is...
Are these panels "mounted" to the INNER bed sides a seperate piece for
a specific purpose?
Is this "mounting-stud" temporary?
The "ridge" created here...does the entire tonneau cover rest ON this when closed?
Did you fabricate a seperate "gap-hider" piece to close-up everything
between the rear surface of the CAB & the leading-edge of the box
down by the running board?....
Do you have a picture of you truck BEFORE this work was done?
I'm wondering how it looked with these monster tires and wheels installed
with everything as ol' Henry intended......
And I think I can figure the rest out from there......I hope...
Thanks again...
-
Are these panels "mounted" to the INNER bed sides a seperate piece for
a specific purpose?
Is this "mounting-stud" temporary?
The "ridge" created here...does the entire tonneau cover rest ON this when closed?
Did you fabricate a seperate "gap-hider" piece to close-up everything
between the rear surface of the CAB & the leading-edge of the box
down by the running board?....
Do you have a picture of you truck BEFORE this work was done?
I'm wondering how it looked with these monster tires and wheels installed
with everything as ol' Henry intended......
And I think I can figure the rest out from there......I hope...
Thanks again...
-
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