Cracked engine block on V10
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Joined: Jan 2011
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I dropped it off at the Ford dealer this morning. They took a look at it, and got back to me. They said that the coolant is leaking not from a crack, but rather that the back of the block has become porous due to corrosion from salt. I guess there are some snowy parts of Los Padres National Forest where this truck was for most of its life.
As for the transmission, the tailhousing is cracked on the right side. The dealer quoted me $5900 to replace the engine with a rebuilt long block, and $2000 to fix the transmission, both with 3 year unlimited mile warrany. Luckily, they said the transfer case is ok.
-Howard
As for the transmission, the tailhousing is cracked on the right side. The dealer quoted me $5900 to replace the engine with a rebuilt long block, and $2000 to fix the transmission, both with 3 year unlimited mile warrany. Luckily, they said the transfer case is ok.
-Howard
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
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From: Pa
I just find it hard to believe your block rusted away or "became porous" (whatever the hell "became porous" is supposed to mean) when your surrounding aluminum and steel parts do not look that bad. I would say there is porosity (air pockets or flaws) in the casting where coolant is being forced through. Cast iron cracks or rusts away until it gets thin and leaks. Of all the years working working with and repairing castings I never saw a casting develop a leak that wasn't cracked or thin from corrosion.
For $7900 I'd try draining the coolant, cleaning the area and using a metal filled epoxy. The tailhousing weld it from the outside if you can. That pricing is crazy for a small leak and a crack.
For $7900 I'd try draining the coolant, cleaning the area and using a metal filled epoxy. The tailhousing weld it from the outside if you can. That pricing is crazy for a small leak and a crack.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
Likes: 3
From: Winchendon MA
Here is a cheap but very effective leak detector.
Wash motor dry it good with compressed air and or hair dryer.
Take wifes car to dollar store get huge can of Athletes Foot Fungus Spray!
Spray the area you think you have a leak at when the spray drys you'll have a nice white layer. Run the motor drive untill warm etc shut off and check. The leak will wick through the powered spray.
44
Wash motor dry it good with compressed air and or hair dryer.
Take wifes car to dollar store get huge can of Athletes Foot Fungus Spray!
Spray the area you think you have a leak at when the spray drys you'll have a nice white layer. Run the motor drive untill warm etc shut off and check. The leak will wick through the powered spray.
44
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Joined: Jan 2011
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I'm finding it hard to believe that it was due to salt corrosion, when like you point out, the surrounding parts are not too badly corroded. Maybe the antifreeze was never changed in 80K miles, or maybe the block had a defect that lead to premature failure. Or maybe engine blocks are thinner now to reduce weight? But the fact that the Ford dealer diagnosed it so quickly leads me to believe they've seen it before...
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
I've heard of the heads getting corroded and having flaws in it before that sprung a coolant leak but havn't heard about the block doing so.(on the v10) If the coolant has an electrical charge to it or is in bad shape it can increase the corrosive effects. There are water passages in the block (obviously) and there could be fairly thin at that spot. You really don't know the thickness without cutting into it. If its that thin a pick or punch should be able to penetrate without too much effort.
They reduce weight and material where they can however the V10 blocks are a more traditional thick cast iron. They don't use the thinner CGI like the newer diesel engines do to reduce weight.
Or maybe engine blocks are thinner now to reduce weight?
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