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2011 F350 6.7 DPF/EGR Delete Questions

 
  #1  
Old 05-04-2017, 08:39 PM
Bawbag74
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2011 F350 6.7 DPF/EGR Delete Questions

Ok, so I have a 2011 F350 6.7 Lariat (Long Bed)

Ive been searching these forums for the last week or so and still a little confused with the EGR delete and DPF delete. Heres what "I Think" I reading, maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong:

If i was to do DPF delete, 4" exhaust, and H & S TUNER - that fixes the DPF part (Seems the easiest part)

Now onto the EGR: I called a few local shops who want in excess of $3k to do a full DPF AND EGR Delete, which i though was pretty steep (And could lead to annual problems here with inspections). Im not really looking for a full delete. i'd prefer to leave whatever was under the hood, to still be there, especially for inspections etc (But not worried if it's unplugged of course . So i found another guy who said he has done about 7 deletes in the last 3 weeks. He advised to do the DPF delete, H&S TUNER, and just shut off and unplug the EGR which he would charge $1650 which includes the tuner (But not blocking it off, just "closing the valve"). Yet everything i read leads me to believe i need to at least use the block off plates. Am i missing something? Im not a mechanic, in fact most parts of the engine i see i have no idea what is what

I would like my truck to last longer, get slightly better mpg and actually hear the engine/turbo (Nothing obnoxious, but at least sound like a diesel) and of course a little more power at the same time. I'd like to keep as much under the hood as possible for state inspection, and have heard replacing the stock air filter is a good idea too. Im out of warranty as it is so not worried about that aspect. I tow a few times a month, 16' dump trailer, with concrete/rock (additional 12k lbs plus trailer) but not long distances.

Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, but after all my searching i really cannot find a definitive answer to what i should have done.

ONE FINAL NOTE: Had a CEL come on about 4 months ago, took it to a guy to read, said it was an exhaust gas sensor code (Which is what it always seems to be when i go to ford and pay a fortune for a sensor). 1 month later, went into limp mode for overheat. Looked at coolant and it was empty. Filled it up, fixed issue of overheat no issues prior or now. (the only time it has ever done it) just checked coolant today, a little low, but nothing dramatic, just wondering if that could be a sign of a cracked EGR cooler, or is it normal to lose a little coolant with time? If i block off the EGR does that stop coolant going through the are that could potentially have a leak/crack?

Sorry for being such a noob, but any advice is greatly appreciated!
 
  #2  
Old 05-04-2017, 09:40 PM
BOHAWG175
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1. $3000 is about right on a full delete
2. I would never just unplug the EGR. Either remove it (best option as you rerun the coolant) or use block off plates (still a good option but much cheaper.
3. Run from the guy wanting to just unplug the EGR.
Search of YouTube "6.7 delete what to know". I put some helpful info out there.
 
  #3  
Old 05-04-2017, 10:35 PM
airm4n
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I would be worried about the coolant first before worrying about the deletes. Unless you've got a leaking hose and no sign of where it is going that is a bad sign. Spend the money on tracing that problem first.
 
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Old 05-05-2017, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bawbag74 View Post
1 month later, went into limp mode for overheat. Looked at coolant and it was empty. Filled it up, fixed issue of overheat no issues prior or now. (the only time it has ever done it) just checked coolant today, a little low, but nothing dramatic, just wondering if that could be a sign of a cracked EGR cooler, or is it normal to lose a little coolant with time? If i block off the EGR does that stop coolant going through the are that could potentially have a leak/crack?
On your truck there are two cooling systems, the primary and secondary. If you're losing coolant from the primary system, causing your engine to overheat, it's most likely not the EGR cooler as that draws coolant from your secondary system on the 2011 model.

Keep in mind that the primary system is fairly large, if you're losing enough coolant for it to overheat your motor you've lost gallons of coolant. It has to have gone somewhere, either it puked it out or burnt it or leaked it out somewhere. I would be more concerned at the moment about making sure your coolant system is properly sealed before doing the DPF/EGR delete.
 
 
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