Ya must have been something they changed along the way cause I never saw anything there was an issue and like I said earlier I hit spreads of over 70 deg. What I wanna know is if Im so darned lucky how come the lottery tickets dont ever pay off?

 

It is the best guess without any real data to go by. He needs to scan for the code saved in the ECU. This is the very reason the first upgrade should be gauges. If he wants a better diagnosis through an internet connection then he needs to get more data to diagnose. Gauges and read the code saved in the ECU.


It might because they are both Ford but I doubt it. I tried my SCT on my Honda just to clear the check engine light and it told me to go screw. Won’t hurt to try. At a minimum, I would see if it could scan for any saved codes.

 

Well after the code was cleared by a Ford Tech it has not come back. I am not sure whats up. I have a long trip planned in June so we will see. I have a tuner for my Stang I will take it will read and clear codes.... If it does it again I will let you know what I find.

Thanks
Daniel

 

The limp mode was most likely set by a high ECT/EOT split based on the engine conditions seen by the PCM, or an overboost. You should find a way to monitor these variables, because it most likely will happen again.

I must have missed it when you posted the code number that you said the Tech cleared.

 

I’ll bite……… Daniel the paperwork they gave you should have the code they found on it. What was it? Problems never just go away they just wait to resurface until the worst possible time (like on a long trip with a heavy load).

 

Check your wires, yes one more time, may sound like a novice advice, but...

My engine was missing at idle, and gave me codes, all the way from Florida to Canada, not all the time, I did the wires checks, wiggled the wires everywhere there was a wire. Cleared the codes, problem came back after a while.

Finaly, I went back to basic, checked the wires. Guess what, the ECP wire was not all the way in, it was there, but not completly. I push on it, and the problem disapeered.

Sometime you just have to recheck, and recheck wihtout thinking, ****, I checked that wire two times already.

 

[quote=kenlippold;10329813]It is the best guess without any real data to go by. He needs to scan for the code saved in the ECU. This is the very reason the first upgrade should be gauges. If he wants a better diagnosis through an internet connection then he needs to get more data to diagnose. Gauges and read the code saved in the ECU.



very first mods i did were guages and switching to royal purple synthetic. best thing i could have done imho.

 

What is royal purple synthetic?

 

Sorry for delayed replies, I just got home from vacation yesterday.

After reviewing all the comments in this thread, and looking over my last report from the dealer, here's a summary of what's been done on mine, what you guys are suggesting, and how it runs. I hope this helps Firedaniel as well, and anyone else with this issue.

My truck status:
1. MAF and EBP sensors were replaced prior to this trip, did not solve the problem (I assume the person who said to replace the MAP sensor means the MAF - Mass Air Flow sensor?? If not what's a MAP sensor??)
2. Fuel filters are fresh, not the issue.
3. All boots connected and tight, not the issue.
4. No overheat issues, clutch fan works like a champ.
5. According to Ford dealer when they replaced the sensors, there were no codes since the light was off. I'm hearing that they CAN recover the codes? If so, why didn't they do it?
6. Here's some wording direct from my receipt from the dealer when they replaced the sensors above "Checked PCM calibration level. Noted Updated calibration level installed that includes overboost protection (which explains customer concern.) Followed PPT for DTC: P1102 and found MAF Faulty. Replaced MAF sensor and cleared DTC's. Noted EBP sensor bias (sensor indicating 18psi @KOEO) Inspected and noted weather seal missing from EBP sensor. Installed new EBP sensor and connector. Clearedd DTC's and reset KAM. Road tested and noted boost pressure test passed (26psi). Vehicle is operating as designed at this time."

Now, it's important to note that the dealer told me that replacing those two sensors was all they could do to try to fix it, but that they had not found anything wrong with them. I suppose this is how they get Ford to pay for it under warranty. And, since there's no change with the problem, I believe that to be true.

Based on your comments, these are the possible issues:

1. > 15 degree spread between EOT and ECT, oil cooler is plugged. I don't know what those are or how to check them while pulling a load up a grade. Dealer - who knows.
2. Buy a Scan Guage II. I looked at it here ScanGaugeII - Trip Computers + Digital Gauges + Scan Tool and at Autozone. From what I've read, it's like a trip computer. I don't see where it's going to give me EOT or ECT readings, whatever they are. I don't need to know mileage or rpm or volts, can't see how that helps. Does it do more than it says? Seems kind of gimmicky to me, unless their description is not complete.
3. Overboost. I can make it hit 30 with the camper on and jeep in tow. Speaking of that, the 'Redline' on my boost guage is at 35psi. Why are they whining about 26psi now? Trying to stop replacing the crappy turbo under warranty all the time? Other reason? It seems to me they've made changes to the computer programming and that is probably the true cause of this issue. If so, they've got a problem. I'm only about 17,000 GCWR, and my truck is rated for 23,000. God forbid you go any heavier, you could walk faster to your destination.
4. MAP sensor. I assume he meant MAF? If not what's a MAP sensor?
5. Check wires. Well, I'll leave that to the dealer, since I have no clue where the wires are. And, since they just pulled my engine to fix a dang oil leak, I assume everything was pretty much disconnected and reconnected, and it runs the same.

So, all that said, any ideas guys? I will be taking to the dealer again in a couple weeks, need it for work through Memorial weekend. Go figure. Big work truck and I need it to WORK!

Thanks gents, appreciate the input/feedback.

 

Your seeing a 70 degree spread between EOT and ECT? I'm far from an expert on this...but is that even possible when the engine is up to operating temperature? And that can't be healthy for the motor either; considering there are allot of guys going through the effort of rebuilding/replacing oil & EGR coolers when they're getting 15+ degree spreads.Because, just like me...you can't be rich & good looking at the same time.

 

The part number they replaced was 3C3Z 9S428 BA SENSOR. The mechanic said it was the MAP sensor. Manifold absolute pressure.

 

Ok adding MAP sensor to list for dealer to investigate! Thx.

 

The truck I just bought had the same problem. Ford couldn't even find it, turned out to be a plugged oil cooler. It only did it while towing a load uphill. Just another thought.

 

What year and mileage is the truck you bought?

 

see below post