did you ever jack it up and check it? wouldve saved you alot of greif...

 

This is not a steering binding problem.

 

This is not a constant suspension problem.

 

where did i say suspension problem? did you even read?
i said check the wheel bearing using a pry bar under the tire. he went and checked it by hand which wont give you the result because the brake caliper is temporarily holding everything tight. bad wheel bearing = wheel wobble which most likley is why is steering wheel is moving. and you cant be serious oiling a u joint that is not even turning in the first place is gonna make his steering wheel stop moving.

 

[quote=CrzHelm;10230243]where did i say suspension problem? did you even read?
i said check the wheel bearing using a pry bar under the tire. he went and checked it by hand which wont give you the result because the brake caliper is temporarily holding everything tight. bad wheel bearing = wheel wobble which most likley is why is steering wheel is moving. and [B]you cant be make his steering wheel stop moving.[/quote]
Actually I was going to say "suspension or bearing problem" but got lazy. If you read all the posts you would see it is intermittant and this isn't it. (I had the same problem.) Also, I successfully oiled my u-joints and did a post or 2 on it in here. I don't just make things up and write them in here.
About the non moving u-joint: If you read my posts I said the joints aren't moving with the wheels unlocked but if you have one malfunctioning locking hub or friction elseware in the wheel hub it can cause the joint to abnormally turn and if the joint is nearly frozen it can be freed with my oiling technics which I wouls be glad to explain in a new thread. Also, one malfunctioning joint could cause a problem like this. Mine was had to turn, moved in and out, and sprung back by itself when turned with a big screwdriver.

 

a bad wheel bearing can and will give intermitant feedback. it all depends on driving conditions. braking will compress the rotor forcing the bad wheel to run straight. now release the brakes and drive on a straight smooth surface and probably it still runs straight. then make some turns or hit some bumps enough to shake the wheel enough to start compressing the caliper. now the rotor has room and the wobbling starts. then hit the brakes and now it gonna pull to the good side cause the caliper on the bad side took longer to reach the rotor. also at this point the brake pedal may intermitantly drop making you think the master is bad. leave it long enough and abs light comes on.
this bearing will cause all sorts of headaches

 

I understand what you are saying but I had exactly the same problem the OP has and my bearings are and were in good shape. We appreciate your input but this has nothing to do with hitting the brakes and it is normally starts after making a sharp turn. It's a strange problem and the wheel just starts jerking violently left and right. I had a marathon thread on it a while back and mine quit after I serviced the locking hub and oiled the u-joint on one side. Unfortunately I put a new PS pump in at the same time so I never was 100% sure it was that problem u-joint that was causing it. You could be right but I just doubt it here.

 

with a bad bearing making a sharp turn will will force the caliper to retract do to the sideways motion of the wheel and rotor which is directly connected to the hub bearing. when that happens the bad wheel and rotor have plenty room to go about there business.
most people hit brakes before turn and gas after so yes i can see it happening.
lets see if his new hub bearing fixed his problem....

 

Like I said; I had exactly the same problem and my bearings were fine. If you experienced this intense wheel action you would see what I mean. It can start and stop at any time and touchig the brakes has no effect.........lets see what the OP says.
I posted another u-joint oiling thread.

 

As for the left to right motion. It is gone. As I mentioned, both the axle u-joint and hub assembly were replaced. The tech said the u-joint had a sticky spot when turning it so I had them change it since it was apart. The tech said while the u-joint had that one spot, it was the hub causing the issue.

As for oiling the u-joints, I tried it since I've seen things that were unlikely, miraculously work but I don't think it's practical since there's really no way the oil is going to make it past the seals. Can't hurt though.

 

This may be off this topic, but folks read & remember ..
The ujoints DO NEED TO TURN FREELY when the steering wheel is turned, even if in 2WD, unlocked.
Because the stub shaft is hinged by the ujoint.

 

Well, they turn but don't spin and the violent wheel movement which turns your truck to the right and then to the left etc wouldn't be affected by a joint that is simply turning on a lateral and horizontal plane. One of my joints was spinning in 2wd with the hub unlocked. When I tried to turn it with a big screwdriver it would just spring back to where it was.

 

Just wanted to update you guys on this. We came back from a 2500 miles trip and found that while we no longer had the left to right issue, we had a slight vibration issue at higher speeds. Once we got back to our destination, I let the truck sit overnight and lowered the air pressure to 60lbs on all the tires. We are now smooth as butter. It was a real pleasure driving it home. I could have drove it with one finger.

Later

 

Let us know if the grimlin returns,.............like mine did.