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Believe it or not, my 390 is still going, but it's not going to be long before something lets go in it- the misfire it has is getting noticeably worse, and the gas is still finding it's way into the oil. It sounds like the engine in Patrick McManus' mountain car, "like a washing machine falling down a flight of stairs!" -Something tells me that isn't good!
Here's my problem: I don't have the money to rebuild this engine. The subject of replacing the truck with a 1999 Taurus has been coming up lately, so I need to get this truck running and reliable. So, I've been thinking about cobbling together a motor from whatever decent parts I can find at the local yards, throwing a few new parts into it, and hitting the road. If the parts are good, I don't see any reason why not.
Here's my question: once a head has been pulled from a motor, how do I tell if it's any good?
There would be a ridge on the last 1/4 of the bore.
As you drag your finger up from lower in the cylinder bore you will feel a bump at the last 1/4 inch. If you feel to much of a bumb the motor needs a re-bore.
I've heard if the seats and valve faces are nice and shiny that's a good sign, big carbon deposits on the springs and guides would probably be something to avoid, anything else to look for?
Pull the plugs for a look, smell the oil on the dipstick for blowby, look at the underside of the oil cap for sludge. When you unbolt the rocker shaft, check the ball end of the pushrod for a wear ridge. Look at the valve margins around the edge of the valve, do the valves seem to sit high above the seats?
I've seen good assemblies go to the crusher when scrap prices were up. Happy hunting!
P.S. I'll see if I have any Taurus wagon pictures still hosted. I've fit some unlikely things in the back of the ol' battle wagon.
I'll keep those in mind, thanks! The sad thing about the local yards here is none of them hang onto their trucks for very long before they meet the crusher, the upside is there's always new trucks to pick over!
You should've seen some of the stuff the stuff we've had in my dad's hatchback focus, we had some deck lumber in there once, one end was sitting on the dash- one hard stop would've sent the whole mess through the front windshield! My uncle had another idea when he hauled some 8 foot 2x4s home in his Lexus -he opened the sunroof and stuck them through!
For heads, pour light machine oil (like marvel mystery oil) into the ports and see if it runs out past the valve and seat. And of course, if they are generally clean but not TOO clean (indicating they have been cleaned by the junkyard). And check if the valve seals are still there
I've heard if the seats and valve faces are nice and shiny that's a good sign, big carbon deposits on the springs and guides would probably be something to avoid, anything else to look for?
Sam
A cheap way to check the heads is to clean them up really good and pour gas into eachport and see if it leaks past the valve.
If there is a little drop or drip they will be fine for quite awhile to make it worth it anyways.
If you have a valve spring compressor you can pull them apart, and clean by hand if you want too. Just becarefull to put the shim back into place.
Ok, will do! I'll have to open the motors up myself, so I should be able to get a good look inside. There's usually 6 or 7 FEs out in their yard, at least one set of heads should be decent.
And the heads are the same both sides right? Should I get both heads off the same motor or would it hurt to mix and match?
Sam
P.S. I just called the local yard and they said $50 a head, now that sounds like something that fits my budget!
Get yourself an engine manual and learn it for yourself. It's really the only way you'll "get it". Besides, you can learn at your own pace and it is knowledge you can use on other engines as well. Once you learn the basics of fuel & exhaust, engine electrical, cooling and oiling you're well on your way. It's fun too!
It is fun, nothing like tearing into a motor! I had this motor all apart before, and there's nothing like the feeling you get when the thing is put back together and starts for the first time!
We'll see how this junkyard build works out for me, I'm pretty confident I can find decent heads, but I may have to get a core short block and do some work to it. Rings are no big deal, provided it needs just a hone. It's the bearings and rod's that worry me.
Is there any way to identify rod knock/wrist pin knock by just by plasti-gauging the bearings and seeing if everything is tight?
I'd just like to make sure I get all my bases covered, the last thing I need is to have this thing loose a rod and toast the block!
Yes you can use plasti guage to check rod/main bearing clearances.
But I would pop the caps off and if they look fine they are. A slightly polished/matte look is what to look for. Bearings are such soft metal that they will tell you if there hurt.
I doubt you'll have to mix and match heads, they seem to wear at the same rate.
When my wrist pin was going, I found sparkles in the oil when I drained it. I didn't look, but I'm sure there were plenty of shavings left in the bottom of the oil pan. There is always a little oil and debris trapped in the pan.
If the motor has any serious looking exhaust leaks at the manifolds you could have damaged exhaust valves. Look around the block near the mount areas for a rebuilder tag that may give some sign of hope. poke around gloveboxes for any maintenance history or rebuild work.
Ok, thanks. I'll have to get dad to take me out to the yards sometime soon, maybe this weekend. We'll see if there's anything worth bringing home. Thanks for the tips on the wrist pin and the exhaust leaks, wrist pins was one of my biggest worries.