2002 cruise control diagnostics
2002 cruise control diagnostics
Hi All,
Just bought a brand new to me 2002 F250 5.4 4x4. I need a little help with the cruise control which doesn't work. The master cylinder cutoff switch was disconnected by the previous owner and leaking so I replaced it with a new one. Been reading on the fire issues and will install my own relay after I get the cc working.
I read around the site and didn't see an answer to my issue. I tried to follow the diagnostics I found below on this website. The cc light flashes after I press the OFF button and start the procedure. It flashes again after I hit the ON button. Nothing happends when I move on to the RESUME button. I presume this means that the RESUME/COAST/SET switch is no good. Before I pull the steering wheel apart to look at the switch, any one have another diagnostics test I can do to home in on the issue? Is there a way to check that switch w/o pulling the wheel apart?
Thanks for any help.
Johnnyd
*cruise control self test*
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel
will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position
Just bought a brand new to me 2002 F250 5.4 4x4. I need a little help with the cruise control which doesn't work. The master cylinder cutoff switch was disconnected by the previous owner and leaking so I replaced it with a new one. Been reading on the fire issues and will install my own relay after I get the cc working.
I read around the site and didn't see an answer to my issue. I tried to follow the diagnostics I found below on this website. The cc light flashes after I press the OFF button and start the procedure. It flashes again after I hit the ON button. Nothing happends when I move on to the RESUME button. I presume this means that the RESUME/COAST/SET switch is no good. Before I pull the steering wheel apart to look at the switch, any one have another diagnostics test I can do to home in on the issue? Is there a way to check that switch w/o pulling the wheel apart?
Thanks for any help.
Johnnyd
*cruise control self test*
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel
will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position
To those having CC issues. Here is what happened on mine. Went thru all the diagnostics and never got a good reading. I finally found the in-line fuse link just below the Master cylinder cutoff switch had a bad fuse in it. When I did it I got the 2 amp fuse put it in and immediately it blew again. So I tried a 3 amp. That blew too. Only thing I had left was a 5 amp and put it in. Presto it worked. No problems since. I think the servo motor was stuck and when I allowed more amps to make it to it. It freed up and is working again. I know there is going to be nay-sayers about putting a 5 amp in for the 2 amp but all I know is that it worked. I should get another 2 amp and replace it but just never have yet. Most auto parts stores do not carry that small of a fuse. Hope this helps someone. I was pulling my hair out!
I tried the Self Diagnosis Test on my 2000 F250 SD and got nothing. No blinking lights at all. Check all the fuses and they are good. Tried disconnecting, cleaning and reconnecting the BPP and BPS connections but still nothing.
My CC was working periodically but would abruptly shut off. After messing with the connectors, I can't even get it to turn on now.
My CC was working periodically but would abruptly shut off. After messing with the connectors, I can't even get it to turn on now.
I just joined and have read most of the answers but my problem is similar tojimjokjv ..I have a 2000 F250 5.4 4x4. I can not get and response when I try to get the Self Diagnosis Test to work. The fuses seem ok so I am at a loss on what to do next.
My truck is a 7.3 diesel so you will need to check if all the workings for the CC are the same. Checking the application feature on this part says it is for the 5.4
Here's the kit I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE...lZAnue&vxp=mtr
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My issue was the resume button which I replaced.
If you're not going into the diagnostics mode as evident by the cruise control light not turning on and the fuses are good, you might have a bad light. Or possibly the cruise on/off switch is bad.
If you're not going into the diagnostics mode as evident by the cruise control light not turning on and the fuses are good, you might have a bad light. Or possibly the cruise on/off switch is bad.
I am also having problems. I ran the diagnostic and got a light to flash each time but at the end there were no additional flashes. I read somewhere else that means the speed control servo is bad. Is that correct?
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve
Since I changed the switch on the brake master cylinder I have not had a single issues with mine. Might give it a try since it is relatively inexpensive.
Here's the kit I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE...lZAnue&vxp=mtr
Here's the kit I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE...lZAnue&vxp=mtr
My horn works fine which I have been told is a sign that the clock spring is not the issue. Does anyone know where the Cruise Control Servo is located? I heard on another thread it was in the drivers side wheel well? I looked from the top but could not see it. Do you have to remove the rubber stuff in the wheel well to get at it?
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve
My horn works fine which I have been told is a sign that the clock spring is not the issue. Does anyone know where the Cruise Control Servo is located? I heard on another thread it was in the drivers side wheel well? I looked from the top but could not see it. Do you have to remove the rubber stuff in the wheel well to get at it?
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve








