So, I bought an '88 T-Bird 5.0 that I'm swapping into my '55 F-100. I have gotten to the point of getting the truck to start and idle everytime, but whenever I go to give it any throttle at all it just dies.

I was advised to post up here to see if you guys could help me with some diagnosing.

Here is the thread I have posted in the '48-'60 section.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-run-help.html

Any help would be greatly appreciated, the truck has been down for a few months and I need it back. Thanks!

Joe

 

Check fuel pressure?

 

Fuell pressure is good, grounds are good, No vacuum leaks. There's a whole list of things in that other thread that I've gone through.

 

Ok, I read other thread... Seams like you have fuel pressure correct and working.

Are all the injectors firing?
Timing correct? pull the spout connector to set base?
TPS is a possible culprit(but even faulty they run up off idle)

Does it idle smooth or rough?

 

Did the timing tonight. When we pull the spout connector the idle drops from when Its connected. Is this normal? It idles pretty smooth. It is a higher mileage engine, but theres no surging or loping or anything. when we give it throttle it acts like someone just hits a fuel cut off switch and it just revs down until it dies.

 

Yep that is correct.

What is timing with spout pulled? with it on?
Does timing move at all as you come off idle?

 

With an issue like that it is usually fuel or timing.

Since fuel pressure seems to be holding so I would now look at ignition system.

 

I told my friend who's garage the truck is in, and who is also a mechanic (more of a parts swapper I have come to find, but still a bit more knowledgeable than I), he was the one who set the timing at 10* with the spout out, not sure what it changes to with the spout in. I didn't even think to ask/check both ways.

 

Joe, I copied and pasted this from another site. I did a search:
Symptoms of a faulty egr valve, now I am wondering...

Egr valve is an emissions componant that is used to reduce tailpipe emissions by "recycling" exhaust gas (simple laymans terms).
A valve that is stuck open will cause a rough idle or stalling problem...
A valve stuck closed can cause spark knock on acceleration or cruising
A valve that opens too much or too soon can cause a stumble, hesitation or loss of power during acceleration.

To everyone else, I have been trying to help him through this and suggested he post it here.

 

Do you have another distributor or TFI module?

 

At this point I think you have to pull the codes, this will either point you in the direction of a wiring or sensor problem or completely eleminate them all as possible causes so it's the next logical step.

 

Hi Paul, thats what I was telling Joe last night, I recommended that he get a cheapy scan tool to do it, cause he didn't have one. Hopefully he will get one today and check tonight. I am doubting that it is an EGR valve stuck open, like I mentioned earlier, because he said it idles great. I would think that if it was open in any way, that it wouldn't idle as well as he describes. Its just kinda hard to troubleshoot from a keyboard.

 

The Equus 3145 is a great code reader that won't break the bank, and I have seen it cheaper than this at various places. Equus 3145 - Equus OBD I Code Readers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

Sold me! I am gonna order one! the last one I had was an ACTRON, you had to count the blinking red light, if you blinked, yourself, it made you wonder if ya got it right! LOL "EH CRAP gotta start over! "

 

Okay, got the code reader, did the KOEO self check and came up with these codes...let me stretch my hand before typing all this out...

63- Throttle Position circuit fault, below minimum voltage
67- Neutral Drive switch circuit failure, circuit open or A/C input high
81- Air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control fault/air injection diverter
82- Air diverter solenoid circuit failure, integrated relay control module
87- Fuel pump primary circuit fault

Thanks for any input.

Joe