I have read a lot threads about taking the cab off to replace the cab mounts (the front cab mounts that are bolted/welded to the cab, under the floor pan, not bushings), But, has anyone replaced these by just jacking cab up? I would like to know if this is possible and actual steps if someone has done this. I will read more about taking cab off if I were to do it that way, but please just suggestions on if this is possible by just jacking. It would be done on a 1975 f250 4x4 4speed with the 360.

 

I'm sure it is possible to do. Just a matter of freeing up anything that might restrict the movement of the front of the cab, and drilling of the spot welds. I should add that the cab mount bolts might have to be cut but, with a good flex-bar and snipe, they might just snap in two. You'll need new bolts. I'm in the process of figuring this out as well for my 77.

 

No matter how you do it wont be fun. It can be done with the cab on the frame. I have done it already both sides. Just take off the fenders and inner fenders. Its much easier with the motor out but its not necessary. It's just harder to weld the seem at the tunnel.

 

I appreciate the feedback and ideas. Good to know it's possible. Will probably take front clip off as a whole then start the surgery.

 

I would also be willing to bet if you need cab mounts you also need floor pans.

 

Yes, floor pans would need to be replaced. Floor pan crossmember as well.

 

If you need to replace pans, mounts etc, it may be easier and less time consuming if you just take the cab off. It sounds like you are going to do a lot of work to the cab anyway and if you had it off the frame you could lay it on it's back and really get things fixed without the hassle of trying to jack the cab up and try to weld in difficult areas and what not. Once you get the seat out and even take off the doors, the cab isn't that heavy. Sometimes making things more efficient to work on is better. Heck, you could even take the bed off quick and then just slide the cab back a bit, put some plywood down on the back part of the frame and lay the cab back on it. You wouldn't have to lift the cab off or anything. 4 guys and a few beverages would do the trick. It seems like more work up front, but you may end up saving time. Just a thought.

 

ive replaced my floor pans and cab mounts on my 71 crew cab with it still on the frame i jacked the body up just enough to be able to slide new body mounts on the frame perches then put wood blocks under the cab down to the ground and removed the jack then started the fun of removing and installing everything wasn't to bad this way worst part is right by the trans tunnel can't really get to some areas with the trans in the way i'll finish spot welding the 6'' that i missed when i take out the motor trans and swap in my 460 and zf 5 good luck on the project

 

In the big picture, it will easier just to remove the cab and do the work. A lot less cussing involved.

Dave

 

The last one I did was a 65 F100 which is basically the same they use 73-79 floor pans and cab mounts. I would have liked to have done it with the cab off but I did both ith it on the frame. Really the hardest part is ripping out the junk but thats what the body ripper is for.

For the cab mount placement I found it was nice to have the cab bolted in the rear exactly how it needs to be then just jack it up and down in the front. I would bolt the cab mounts to the frame then let the cab come down on the mounts. Check for all lignments and weld it up.

 

i did what PA said about having the rear cab mounts still in and jack it up i couldn't bolt the cab mounts to the frame in the front tthe top part of the frame perch where the rubber bushing sat rotted away 1 smack with the hammer and the whole rubber part fell right out rusted the perch right around where the bushing sat i got some 1/4'' plate and welded it on top of the perch and drilled new holes

 

I know this a little off topic but i just got new cab mounts from lmc, they look like they just go over the existing mounts and weld to the floor pans and will not have a factory look. Anyone have expirience with this?

 

Cab mount replacement can be done with the cab on but if course would be easier if cab was off. Floors should be replaced while your at it if they are bad. I used heavy gauge galvanized sheet metal for mine but did it before cab went on.




As for can mounts I HATE aftermarket junk. It's paper thin and garbage. I made my own out of some left over 3/16 plate. I've never seen anyone else do this and really it's key to a good solid cab.
I put my cab on and set the height I needed by blocking it up then made some measurements .


I tacked it all in place, double checked everything, then cut it loose welded it all up and cleaned it up. I cut acess holes to accept the original cover plates.



I then welded it to the new floors which was a breeze as the floor material was heavier gauge and wasn't easy to burn through while welding.
Guys always complain about how body lifts wreck your cab, and it can but this fix is a good solid fix I would recommend for everyone!!
My cab had some other little spots to fix as well that I did but I figured most cabs had these key area problems and going a little overkill was a good thing so paying huge bucks for a better cab was unesssesary

 

Great pictures and work.

Thanks for everyones advice too.

 

you did a great job 73 ford guy those new cab mounts will be plenty strong i didnt know until i got the LMC cab mounts that they were so thin but i used them anyways as i was on the race against winter