i have standard set of sockets and pb blaster...what else should i get to make it easier besides a six pack and the listle tool which i dont have the part number for? and can i put the newer motorcraft plugs in my 05? should i nevercease the threads? thanks

 

You'll need to make sure you gap the plugs first. For this you'll need a gapper, which is usually found on any auto parts store counter. You can do a Google search for what size your gaps should be.

There's also some thread treatment gel you can get that will make it easier to pull out these plugs when it comes time to change them again. Add a spark plug socket or a magnet to get the old ones out, and you should be good to go!

 

I assume your changing plugs in your 05 150, and I assume this is a 3V 5.4. Good luck gapping the plugs as they are unique and you cannot adjust the gap. (sarcasm) You have a good start with the PB, you can order the lisle tool off rockauto.com, and I would make it a 30 pack and clear your day, you want to take your time. Soak the plugs while the engine is warm the night before you start your change. Good luck.

 

Did mine a few weeks ago, not a big deal. I would not use PB blaster as once you pull the plugs, then that will be in your cylinder. Just use a good carb/choke cleaner. Helps to have the plug socket for thes plugs too, it has a built in extension that makes it MUCH easier, trust me. Just spray a few shots of cleaner in each plug hole and let it sit for abour 30 minutes. Then just work them slowly. They are tough to turn, but if you hear screeching and popping, you know the plug is moving. If it starts to stick, just back it upa 1/8th turn and then start again. If you start and it is really easy, and not making noise, sorry, you broke that one! I only broke one and the tool worked perfectly. All others came right out with patience. Hope that helps!!

 

Here's the Lisle tool part number:

Amazon.com: Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines: Automotive

People that have had the most success doing their own plug change have used Kroil instead of PB Blaster or the like.

Amazon.com: Kano - Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL): Automotive

 

Actually the newest TSB calls for use of choke/carb cleaner instead of penetrating oil. Also, make sure you blow out the plug holes once you remove the COP, they are deep and hold lots of junk you don't want in your cylinder once you remove the plug!

 

The lisle part number is #65600. I hope you don't need it, but if you do it is worth its weight in gold. Disconnect the battery. Then take the computer off the passenger side firewall and remove the bracket that holds it there. This is to give you the room you need to get to the #3 and #4 plugs easily. They make a magnetic plug socket that works pretty good if the plug doesn't break.KD tools part number 3938 it is a socket with the extension and swivel built in. 9/16 in size. Just be patient and take your time. After the old plugs are removed if you have access to an air blower, blow all the dirt and debris out of the tubes. Thanks to the members here I will add a simple step to the task that I will perform everytime I do this again. Take a small brush that is used to clean paint guns and soak it with carb cleaner and scrub the threads and the holes the plugs go into. this should clean the debris and the carbon out of the holes. This can be skipped but I found out the hard way it only takes a piece of sand to mess up a good job. If anything keeps the new plug from sealing you will have a smell in the cab like an open gas can in there. Dont undo the fuel rail just unplug the injectors to get the room you need. Has to be something I forgot but someone will shout it out. Good luck and be safe.

 

X2 on the 30 pack. Good luck

 

should i stay with the motorcraft ? and just put the anti sieze on? i did get a 30 pack and a fifth so im good there...

 

It appears that in the long run the Motorcraft plugs tend to do better in the 5.4 than the Champions or other options. Stick with Motorcraft and some antisieze

 

When I removed the plugs I would blow out the holes after loosening the plug about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This removes most of the dirt, sand ,etc. from the holes.Then use the Motorcraft carb. cleaner per the TSB. and let it soak(preferably overnight). You may not need all of the 30 pack or the fifth. If you use Motorcraft plus use the nickel-based antisieze NOT copper-based.

 

is the autolite ht1 the same as the motorcrafts?

 

Why not use copper? I did and it works great. I know they are disimilar metals but it shouldn't car ode right?

 

I have had a spark plug sieze in the thread on an aluminum head before. The TSB calls for nickel-based antisieze also. Better safe than sorry. Also dissimilar metals and heat could have caused the siezing.

 

The HT1 is an alternate design and the HT15 is teh OE design. One has a more exposed tip. But the Motorcraft plugs are priced about a third less than the Autolites. If you using that type plug I would recommend the Motorcraft if they are available. Change the boots when you change them.