Thanks Garbz2,The glazing you mentioned sounds good.One that another member mentioned doesn't seem too appealing for it's "runny" factor.Because I also have some vertical seams to touch up on the bed front as well where the front panel meets the bed sides. The glazing should stay where I put it.Thanks heaps.

 

The self leveling sealer works great for the drip rail but it wasn't designed for vertical joints. 3M makes a good caulk. Au-Ve-Co makes a good caulk. I found that the Au-Ve-Co sealer can be smoothed out afterwards with laquer thinner. I could dip my finger in laquer thinner and smooth out any joints that didn't look quite right. The 3M sealer wouldn't do that.

Kevin

 

Thanks kstones,That's a cool feature with the laq thinner.

 

i was googling removing the original sealer from my van drip rail,
and came on this link. it seems heat, a chisel, and a wire brush
are the best choices, applied with profanity.

as my van is white, after i get this junk out, and the rust sanded
down, i'm going to apply rustbullet in white, and then re seal the
lip with white caulk over it, so that sealant movement won't crack
the paint and let water in to rust like the factory does it.

for the caulk, 3m makes a single part urethane in white, black,
and gray. it's a structural sealant. the part number is 550, and
it comes in cartridges. the stuff is seriously good. paintable,
and designed to be waterproof below the waterline for boats.
somewhat flexible, with a gloss surface.

nitrle gloves are required. this stuff doesn't clean off, it wears off.

 

3M Marine adhesive sealer 4000UV **3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV White, PN 06580, 1/10 gal Cartridge, 12 per case is also seriously good stuff. Not cheap, about $20-$30 a tube. I used it to fill a crack in my jon boat, also to seal the old rivets. Tough as nails while retaining flexibility... also UV and moisture resistant.