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Around 5K miles ago the truck went into a no start condition. I went through most of the no start checklist and it was indicating a low ICP (showing about 0.6V). As I was still diagnosing it six days later, the ICPv suddenly went up and the truck started and has run fine for the next ~5K miles.
I figured that sooner or later I would find out what was going on. I am afraid that I am now at that point. Saturday I drove it for about 2.5 miles, parked, restarted and drove home for about 2.5 miles. When trying to restart, it cranked (and very well), but would not start.
Resting ICPv is about 240mV, cranking is about 0.5v. I know this is too low to start. I replaced the oil cooler and EGR cooler about 7K ago, do you all think I got debris in the oil and killed the ICR?
It looks like the ICR is behind the turbo. Am I going to have to remove the turbo again (and all of the associated stuff which is quite a PITA), or can I get it with most still attached?
Good stuff, but I am looking at replacing the ICR, not the ICP. I've spent a plethora of hours searching the forums, and mostly they talk about a special socket. Where exactly is the ICR and how do I pull it on a '04 F250 6.0L?
The IPR (injection pressure regulator) valve is in the HPOP cover toward the back of the engine, under the turbo Y pipes. You'll need a socket with a slot in the side because the valve has a 90° connector that won't allow a standard socket to fit.
I got the IPR out, and it clicks and seems to block flow when 12v is applied to it. If I pull the HPOP (Not much work from where I am now), can it be tested?
Why would I have the exact symptoms (no start, low Injector pressure) before, but the truck started after 6 days? How could it "heal" itself for a while.
The screen on the IPR was completely clogged with something. I would think that if the screen was clogged it would cause high pressure, not low pressure.
a cloged screen will give you a no start... dont get to thinking... thats bad.
you can try a new screen for the valve may or may not work, or replace the valve.
then retest from there.
The valve is still clicking when 12V is applied, but doesn't appear to be holding pressure when I blow into the end of it. I am going to order a new one, where is the cheapest place to get it?
Cleaned the IPR screen and drenched its shaft with gas. It seemed to click and to contain the pressure that I could blow into it.
Since it is Sunday and there was NFW to get a new one, I decided to reinstall it and put the rest of the the engine back together. The truck started right up and the ICP sensor voltage went to about 1v as the engine caught (it was hard to see as it was climbing and then the engine caught and the reading jumped on the VOM).
I will post some lessons learned here at a later date as it is late tonight.
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