Hey guys, I'm thinking about picking up a IDI E350, 1990 model. I've never had a diesel before so I'm a bit apprehensive, especially considering I've heard older diesels are troublesome? I see allot of info and fairly satisfied customers here so I was hoping you guys could ease my mind on buying this beast.

Van has $225K miles on it but supposedly the long block was replaced 70K miles ago to the tune of $8K. It seems like a fairly well maintained van, but it is 21 years old.

I guess I'm concerned that with my very limited knowledge of diesels and the horror stories I've heard with starting problems, glow pulgs, etc. I'm gonna have buyers remorse.

I've read up on general IDI issues like cavitation but is there anything else I need to watch out on this particular model?

 

I don't think you should be so nervous. These IDI diesels have the mechanical simplicity of a hammer.
They are VERY easy to work on, VERY reliable, and pull good MPG's (14-20 depending on transmission, gear ratios, driving habit, how big the parachute is on your box truck)
What's even nicer is that these old engines can be "jerry-rigged" to get ya home if you do run into an issue.
The basic idea is that the mechanical fuel pump on the passenger side of the engine draws fuel from the fuel tank, it supplies fuel to the Injection pump up on top of the engine in the center, the fuel is then injected out thru the steel injection lines to each injector at extremely high pressure. There are rubber fuel hoses running between each injector, these are the return lines, any fuel that is not injected, flows thru the return system back to the fuel tank.

The IDI engine is very simple. Keep the oil level maintained, and changed every 5k miles. Keep the air filter in good shape. Run some fuel additive like Power Service (white or grey bottle, whichever you prefer) every so often. I'd say get the truck nice and warm, shut it off, pull the fuel filter off, dump the diesel out and fill the filter with some of that fuel additive, install the filter, then run the truck for about 15 seconds and shut it off. Let it sit overnight, allowing the additive to sit in the fuel system and do what it does best...clean!

Take care not to disturb the return lines, as soon as you move the rubber hose, the o-ring seal breaks and the system "opens", causing a loss of vacuum and the system will lose prime...causing a lot of cranking each time you try to start the truck. As long as you don't disturb the return lines, you'll be in good shape. F250HDXLT has done a lot of research on electric fuel pumps and has found a good one, maybe he'll chime in.

Make sure you run Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs. The other brands have been known to break off in the cylinder. BAD NEWS! Check out these pistons...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-pistons.html

It should have an E4OD automatic transmission. Flush the fluids and replace the filter, then keep up with maintenance and you'll ahve a very good truck for years to come.

Buy it! Then spend more time with us getting to know/understand it and you'll make a lot of money with it!!!

Will you use it for work? These IDI trucks are so low cost with a potential for so much income, they pay for themselves OVER and OVER and OVER again!

 

It's a box truck equipped to haul motorcycles, it's gonna be a low cost toy hauler. What you're saying is really encouraging and the price of this thing is right.

I would also possible pull a 7X14 trailer behind it, I understand these aren't power horses but would I be okay pulling a 2K-3K trailer like this?

 

These IDI engines won't win a race, but it will tow anything you hook up to. There are many guys here on this forum who have pulled 10-15k pound trailers...with a total weight around 24k pounds.

Stopping...now that's something to consider. Good trailer brakes and brake early, drive with a concious...you'll be in good shape!

Just make sure you bring the truck to a good welder for them to build you a nice hitch. I don't think I would trust the receiver hitch I've seen on most box trucks I've been around. They look flimsy... Spend some cash and have a good hitch built and never worry about it again.
I never worry about mine 1/4" thick x 5" tall C-channel welded to the frame. The receiver tube is welded on the front of this C-channel, it travels thru the other crossmember, and is welded to that crossmember also. Go overkill, it's better to be prepared than not ready! Spending a little extra cash at first is better than having a big accident later!

 

Thanks, definitively will be making sure I'm set to go for pulling. This is partly why I'm looking for E350. My current gas E150 feels inadequate for what I'm doing. Once I get this thing home what do I need to do as far as a full "tune up"? I'm hopelessly clueless to diesels but I'm willing to learn. I want this thing right when I get on the road. Also, he's saying the van has the C6 transmission. Is this a issue for extended highway driving? Not sure what the rear end ratio is. Thanks again.

 

TikiWiki : IDI Fuel Injection Servicing

U-HAUL discount threads;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ighlight=uhaul
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ts-update.html

 

A C6 is a 3 speed, with no Overdrive.
An E4OD is a 4 speed, 4th gear is Overdrive.
If there is some type of overdrive switch on the dashboard or shifter, then you've got an E4OD.
Either transmission will suit your needs fine. Overdrive is great, but if you're towing a trailer also, you may not find yourself needing overdrive.

Air filter, Fuel filter, Oil change and filter, Transmission flush and filter, Rear axle drain oil and add new, service the brakes, and while you're under the truck...check the fuel lines running from the tank up toward the engine.
You're leaking for wetness/leaks. Look carefully, if you see a leak then keep it in mind for diagnosins a hard start issue. You probably won't see anything, but just something to check for that is often overlooked when diagnosing a hard start.
On the engine itself, check the glow plugs with a automotive circuit tester/test light. Put the alligator clip end on the positive battery terminal, then take the electrical harness connector off each glow plug. Probe the glow plug with the test light. If it lights bright, that plug is probably good. If not, it's probably dead. Check out the sticky thread at the top of this forum about the glow plugs, that'll get ya started
For the fuel system, 100k miles is about the lifetime of the Injection pump and Injectors. There are many many trucks running around with 150k or so on the originals, and they run fine...it's just that they wear out and after about 100k they start to lose efficiency. It's not so criticial that when you hit 100,001 you should replace them immediately. Just a number to keep in mind for efficieny purposes.
Check your fan belts, clean any cruddy electrical connections, that basic kind of stuff.
Antifreeze. Check the SCA's with a proper test kit. You'll have to do a search, I forget this stuff myself or I'd share more.
The IDI diesel is a stupid simple engine. Ownership is easy, maintenance is easy, driving may be slow but it is extremely reliable.

 

The most common gearing combined with the C6's are 3.54 (Dana axle) on that box truck.

For cruising it's perfect, if you stay around 55-60mph.

I pull 12mpg out of my motorhome with the C6! That's 98% highway driving. Other 2% is stopping to fuel up and rest areas.

On the other hand, if you unluckey to have 4.10's with the C6....ouch!


If the block was replaced 70k ago, and now has 225k that means it only had 155k on it.

I can guarantee you it got done in by cavitation. A non maintained coolant additive 7.3 won't last much more than 150k.

Since it technically has 70k on it, even if it wasn't maintained with additives yet again, you can still save it and not worry about it.


Other than that, not much to these old pigs! And as a bonus, I think the 1 ton vans still had King Pins in 1990. You sure won't have to worry about the front end for a long time. My motorhome is still on it's original King Pins (1987, 149k miles).




I'm telling you right now, if you do a complete tune up on 'er, you'll love the front injector on the driver side! Other than that, it's no to bad to work on.


Looks fun don't it?