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My truck (see sig) is mostly stock. My tach reads up to 6000 with no redline mark. However if you rev it up I would not go past 4250 rpms. It will pull until about 3000 and then after that your just making noise. So for a red line, just past 4000 is a good spot.
Actual redline (aka, where things come apart) are up over 5000 rpm stock. Place where you shouldn't really bother passing is around 3800rpm. I've kept it at 4000+ rpm for a good 20min one time just as a 'clean the carbon out' experiment. Sounded like it was gonna come apart, but it didn't.
I wondered the same thing. I am always afraid it is gonna fly apart as I sit at the starting line for the mud bog, revved up real high, waiting to dump the clutch. It has worked great so far! (just loves to lose power steering belts in the pit.)
How do those thornbirds run in the mud? Better than BFG AT's i'm sure (i've got BFG AT 33x12.5 on my '85) but better than BFG MT's in the mud pits? I've always liked the looks of the thornbird and i'm thinking of changing to them.
I have no complaints about my Thornbirds, other than highway noise, but that is a cool noise anyway. They are an aggressive tire, and switching to them from street tires made a world of difference. The upside can have a downside if not careful. The beauty of aggressive tread is that you move a lot of material (whether that is sand, mud, or dirt, etc...). If you don't have good forward momentum in sand or mud, it is very possible that the tires are acting as a trencher and heading straight down. I have never gotten stuck enough that I couldn't get out under my own power, but I have come close to burying it in some really deep sand. I definately love these things.
As far as being better than the MT's, I have never owned any other off-road tires, just street tires. I really couldn't tell you.
i just put a tach on to see what my shift points are when i'm getting up to speed on the on ramp to the interstate i was taking 1st up to 4000 2nd up to 3500 3rd runs 2600 at 70 mph
I have a test onramp to the "I" and have found that I can run my 300 up to near 4000, then shift OR do it at 3000 and the end result is still right at 70mph where the merge stripe ends. 'Not very technical or precise, but I can sure feel the low rpm torque we all talk about. Above 4000 (been to 4500 once or twice) I just seem to be blowin gas out the pipe. MPG's went to 12 during this early phase of trying out my rebuild. I just had to do it....
RE "crate engines" - I used a very reputable machine shop in south Denver -Heads by Paul & I ended up with about $1500 in the machine work (bore, ck align, bal, etc, rework head), new hd clutch & parts & then i put it together MYSELF. I know kind of pricey but "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR" besides, I know where to find the guy most responsible (me) if needed - and I'm the only mechanic I still really trust (unfortunately) . I've got 22k on her today and shes just gettin broke in. Besides it's kinda fun.