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Ok guys so I have a 78 f150 with the 351m/400 in it. I have put on a few si,ple things being new air cleaner and putting a rebuilt carb on once I get back to her. My question is what I should do next. I have about 500 bucks to spend. I was thinking a 4 inch lift from rc. But possibly all new ignition parts. Or a camshaft. Or alternator. Build engine or suspension? I like to mud and a lift would be nice but better running engine is nice also. My engine was supposedly rebuilt 23,000 miles ago and it has a recently rebuilt tranny in it. I can't decide so I would like your guys insight and wisdom thanks
(Also the engine is quite dirty can I powerwash it? Or any other way of cleaning a lot of grime off)
A little too open ended. I'd wanna know what EXACTLY was rebuilt or touched 23,000 miles ago. Seems on new purchases, all engines have recently been touched...and an engine with 23k on it, shouldn't be too dirty unless it was thrashed. Anyway, my opinion would be to go with the engine. Get a cam kit ($350), straight up timing (typically included in the kits from Comp), you didn't mention what kinda intake is under that carb (throw this into the mix), maybe some cheapy headers if you have much left.
The reason I would stay away from a lift is because $500 won't go very far IMO. Personally, I'm not a fan of RC lifts, they're cheap for a reason. I also like going with springs all the way around, not rear blocks, which is typically a significant difference in price. Then throw in the fact that you'll need new tires, maybe you have those sitting in waiting...I dunno (and will you need new rims). Then finally, with the lift and tires, what about gearing? Are you gonna want a rig you measure 0-60 time with a sun dial (I realize it's not a race car, but you wanna utilize it's power, right?). Also, without the proper gears in there, you're gonna be staring at a trans that is constantly hunting for gears, which causes more wear on the trans.
Anyway, that's just the tip of the iceberg and stuff to think about. If it were me, I'd go with engine mods because I think it gives you the most bang for the buck...and you can still mud with your truck as is.
As for engine cleaner, simple green or purple power with some warm water should do the trick. Be sure to cover the distributor though.
So everthing is stock besides the air cleaner lol. Is a cam install very hard? I'm 16 with a good amount of knowledge and I am also good with my hands but not very many years of expirience
^^^Not hard at all, but it does take some digging in. Radiator/fan comes out, accessories off (water pump, alt, P/S, distributor), pulleys come off. Then you'll be at the timing cover, pull that off, pull the fuel pump, pull the oil pan. Pull the cam bolt, take off the fuel eccentric, pull the timing chain. Now you're down to the cam retaining bolts. Before you pull those and the cam, pop the valve covers and intake off, pull the rockers and push rods (probably need new push rods with the cam, haven't come in a comp cams kit I've gotten yet, but should be under $50 for mild applications)...and in the valley, pull the lifters. Then go ahead and pull the cam. Install is basically the reverse, there's a little prep with oiling the lifters and cam. It may sound a little overwhelming, but it is a really easy process, just keep everything in order and labeled. Shoot, the toughest part will actually be getting the timing set off...I usually use a couple of die hooks or pry bars with a few gentle nudges.
Edit...I assume you know to drain the fluids (antifreeze and oil) before hand. Don't forget trans cooler lines are attached to the bottom of the radiator. Don't forget new gaskets and a valley pan (some guys don't use them, but I've never had a 351M/400 that didn't leak without one). And be sure to clean all surfaces...I usually just use wire brushes on my Dremel.
That sounds really overwhelming I'm not gonna lie. But its 0 degrees out back home so upgrades will have to wait. What are some good beginner upgrades I don't have air tools I'm 16 and my dad doesn't live with me so I don't have any of his tools
I might add a little warning about the MOD motors. Not knowing how "stock" it is...
Everyone I ran around with "back in the day" when I was your age (I am 41 now) blew up the bottom ends after as little as adding a 4barrel and intake. I had 1979 Bronco with a 400M, it lasted to near 300,000 miles before I finally tossed a rod out of it. I ran it hard but it was all factory, right down to the Motorcraft 2 barrel. If you add a cam, carb, and intake I am sure you will be seeing more RPMS. I know that there are some oil system improvments that can be made to help these motors out and am sure someone will add those as I am not real knowledgable to those. But I wouldn't go to crazy without making sure the bottom end is going to survive. Just my .02, have fun!
Thanks man I believe my current tires are 31s or 33s idk but it pushs em good. It has the stock 3.50 gearing in it and I've read that they can push 35s well. My current tires are at about 90% so I would wanna keep them would it be ok running a 4 inch lift with 31s or 33s
If you add a cam, carb, and intake I am sure you will be seeing more RPMS. I know that there are some oil system improvments that can be made to help these motors out and am sure someone will add those as I am not real knowledgable to those.
Those oiling issues usually don't take effect until 6-6500rpm...and most folks aren't running their 335's that high. I've got a couple articles on the issue and the fixes, but the web blocker at work won't let me access them in case anyone is interested.
And without getting into an engine debate, the oiling issues most folks experience today is due to a 30+ year old engine, things do break and wear out over time. Heaven knows all the 335 series haters will come out of the woodwork that they knew someone who had an engine that was junk from the factory...well that happens with all engines.
Originally Posted by bestbuymudder
Thanks man I believe my current tires are 31s or 33s idk but it pushs em good. It has the stock 3.50 gearing in it and I've read that they can push 35s well. My current tires are at about 90% so I would wanna keep them would it be ok running a 4 inch lift with 31s or 33s
Yeah, you'll be fine running what you have with a 4" lift...you'll just have a whole lotta empty fender. As for 3.50's and 35's...ehh, it'll do, but it's not much for transferrence of power. And if you're building a mudder, you want power. Really, to get back to stock parameters, you'd need to get roughly a 4.56.
Welcome to FTE and the Ford truck world, after reading ALOT on here I have a few suggestions for you.
Make sure all the important things are fixed and it mechanically reliable. Things like brakes in excellent condition! Tie rod ends, seals, bearings, wiring ect.. in good shape?
Steering components (rag joint), fuel system (filters) and lines ok? U joints (main drive line and front axel), xfer case oil change lately? Front/rear end fluid change?
Everything related to a good electrical tune up, cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
Having it start, stop and just go RELIAIBLY is # 1 in my book. Cause once the lift and tires go on it, you will be needing more money to get a bigger lift and tires, its a never ending evil cycle.
Last edited by 77&79F250; Mar 4, 2011 at 03:18 PM.
Reason: sp
I wasn't trying to bash the mod motor at all.
Like I said, I had a TON of HARD miles on mine before it finally got tired of all my ABUSE.
I just wanted to share that I had seen many fail right after getting "souped up" and allowed to rev higher than what they did stock.
I knew that there oil system "fixes" or improvments that could help and thought it might be worth looking into if someone had their motor torn down already.
I had run 3:50 stock gears with 38.5 TSLs for a time. The tires were on narrow rims, so tires were closer to 40" tall. It wasn't much for a hole shot to say the least...Even with 429 it was way too tall of tire for the gear. Trans would "hunt" between 2nd and 3rd when on the highway constantly
^^^Not hard at all, but it does take some digging in. Radiator/fan comes out, accessories off (water pump, alt, P/S, distributor), pulleys come off. Then you'll be at the timing cover, pull that off, pull the fuel pump, pull the oil pan. Pull the cam bolt, take off the fuel eccentric, pull the timing chain. Now you're down to the cam retaining bolts. Before you pull those and the cam, pop the valve covers and intake off, pull the rockers and push rods (probably need new push rods with the cam, haven't come in a comp cams kit I've gotten yet, but should be under $50 for mild applications)...and in the valley, pull the lifters. Then go ahead and pull the cam. Install is basically the reverse, there's a little prep with oiling the lifters and cam. It may sound a little overwhelming, but it is a really easy process, just keep everything in order and labeled. Shoot, the toughest part will actually be getting the timing set off...I usually use a couple of die hooks or pry bars with a few gentle nudges.
Edit...I assume you know to drain the fluids (antifreeze and oil) before hand. Don't forget trans cooler lines are attached to the bottom of the radiator. Don't forget new gaskets and a valley pan (some guys don't use them, but I've never had a 351M/400 that didn't leak without one). And be sure to clean all surfaces...I usually just use wire brushes on my Dremel.
Well first of all is it going to be a daily driver or just on the weekends? An I would get it running good before you decide to lift it wont do any good to lift it an something break on it. I would just get it running good an then use it to make some money with an then lift it. As far as cleaning the engine just make sure the carb an wires an stuf is covered up an yea you can pressure wash it. there is a thread on here bout guys cleaning engines on these trucks you might want to check it out
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