Milling the heads
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Suffolk, VA
Milling the heads
I have read a few different things now. I think the latest information states not to mill the heads at all. Mine are not warped but have some marks in the surface of them. One of them is close or maybe slightly entering into the gasket sealing ring around cylinder. The machine shop said they could take 2 – 3 thousands off and it should be a clean smooth surface.
Am I being too **** about this?
Am I being too **** about this?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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I have read a few different things now. I think the latest information states not to mill the heads at all. Mine are not warped but have some marks in the surface of them. One of them is close or maybe slightly entering into the gasket sealing ring around cylinder. The machine shop said they could take 2 – 3 thousands off and it should be a clean smooth surface.
Am I being too **** about this?
Am I being too **** about this?
Always deck your heads. It saves you from having to pull it all apart again.
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Amherstburg, On canada
I have read a few different things now. I think the latest information states not to mill the heads at all. Mine are not warped but have some marks in the surface of them. One of them is close or maybe slightly entering into the gasket sealing ring around cylinder. The machine shop said they could take 2 – 3 thousands off and it should be a clean smooth surface.
Am I being too **** about this?
Am I being too **** about this?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 151
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From: Suffolk, VA
I was using this tread as a reference.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ace-heads.html
I missed the part that “Ford” just replaces them and does not machine them. So now my next question is how much can I take off?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ace-heads.html
I missed the part that “Ford” just replaces them and does not machine them. So now my next question is how much can I take off?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,757
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From: Corvallis, OR
The main thing is to not take too much off. .005" is completely safe, near .008" is approaching the limit. There are others that have taken off as much as .010". Be sure and check the block deck too, if needed, you can do 2-3 off the heads and 2-3 off the block to make sure everything is as flat as possible.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
I would NEVER go more than .008 and this I speak from personal experience. IIRC the spec'd height for the heads is 3.74". The LESS you can go the better off you'll be in the long run. The only reason to deck the block is if it's warped and that's EXTREMELY rare, but it is worth checking. Make sure you use a certified straight edge and measure warpage across the narrow part of the head, not the length.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Suffolk, VA
I took them to a machine shop. They said they only found them out by about .002. I originally told them not to deck them as I thought Ford said not to deck them and that .002 was with in spec. However when I looked at the heads, they had some minor marring in the surface. So I posted here to get more info. I always try to search all my questions but, if I am still unsure, it is safer to ask the question. It is way too much work and costs too much only to do it half way. Of course, now they will not be ready until Monday, my mistake for not asking sooner.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Corvallis, OR
Always better to ask questions than have to re-do something later 
I'll be doing headstuds on my '03 this year sometime. When I rebuild it AGAIN and repair the currently bent rod. Since I'll have the engine out, I'll be sure and check the block decks and will probably get .002" or so taken off just to ensure they are perfectly flat.
I'll be doing headstuds on my '03 this year sometime. When I rebuild it AGAIN and repair the currently bent rod. Since I'll have the engine out, I'll be sure and check the block decks and will probably get .002" or so taken off just to ensure they are perfectly flat.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Plano TX and Brentwood TN
Always better to ask questions than have to re-do something later
I'll be doing headstuds on my '03 this year sometime. When I rebuild it AGAIN and repair the currently bent rod. Since I'll have the engine out, I'll be sure and check the block decks and will probably get .002" or so taken off just to ensure they are perfectly flat.
I'll be doing headstuds on my '03 this year sometime. When I rebuild it AGAIN and repair the currently bent rod. Since I'll have the engine out, I'll be sure and check the block decks and will probably get .002" or so taken off just to ensure they are perfectly flat.
Agreed. A lot of people think that the mere fact of having studs in their truck is enough to ensure that the job is done and they won't be running a risk of having to dig back into the engine. Because of that, you have people that wonder if doing studs is a viable alternative or not.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Plano TX and Brentwood TN
Problem is they have taken the policy of no milling and just replacing if it's out of spec.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
measure the deck hight then look at the min spec for the deck hight. I dont even think there .008 there to mill.
Ford still says no milling.
Imo .002 is a good head. serface cavation will not hurt anything as long as it outside the fire rings
Ford still says no milling.
Imo .002 is a good head. serface cavation will not hurt anything as long as it outside the fire rings
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Suffolk, VA
Thanks for the help.
Can you answer one more question. I have been using the head removal / installation procedure (.pdf) file. It talks about tighten the head bolts in the following sequence.
1 Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 88 Nm (65 lb-ft).
2 Tighten bolts 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 to 115 Nm (85 lb-ft).
3 Tighten bolts in sequence 1 through 10, clockwise 90 degrees.
4 Tighten bolts in sequence 1 through 10, asecond time, clockwise 90 degrees.
5 Tighten bolts in sequence 1 through 10, a third time, clockwise 90 degrees.
6 Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
7 Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft).
I know this is wrong for ARP studs and that they need to be torqued in 3 progressive torques (70, 140, 210). However, what is the sequence? Still 1-10 with the 3 progressive values? Then pick back up at step 6?
Can you answer one more question. I have been using the head removal / installation procedure (.pdf) file. It talks about tighten the head bolts in the following sequence.
1 Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 88 Nm (65 lb-ft).
2 Tighten bolts 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 to 115 Nm (85 lb-ft).
3 Tighten bolts in sequence 1 through 10, clockwise 90 degrees.
4 Tighten bolts in sequence 1 through 10, asecond time, clockwise 90 degrees.
5 Tighten bolts in sequence 1 through 10, a third time, clockwise 90 degrees.
6 Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
7 Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft).
I know this is wrong for ARP studs and that they need to be torqued in 3 progressive torques (70, 140, 210). However, what is the sequence? Still 1-10 with the 3 progressive values? Then pick back up at step 6?