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like i said, STOCK not modded. You can take a stock 12V and add 90 rwhp with a fuel plate. Get the killer pump and other upgrades and look the **** out. They are built to kick the **** out of anything. Build one right and 700 hp is doable.
Thats just it the 98 was an old grandpa truck i.e. running boards on a 2wd and a topper. The ip has all the seals on it too and egt's never go past 1100 even at wfo.
my mind was made up a long time ago but not soon enough, i will do the swap to a 12V next time. Its just easier to get what we want. MORE POWER!! hahaha
People knock the idi but all around its a good motor. Hell the second year it was out (84) 43% of 3/4tons had it. It patched the rep of diesels in pickups that gm had to ruin. And theres all different kinds of hp too. My 855 in the transtar is rated at 290hp and that would twist a dodge pickup like an old paper clip same with the motor in the 9600. Those dodge guys start ripping on ford so i start getting the 40,000lb strap and clevis' hooked to the 9600 and i say if i pull it off im keepin it and if they are still ballsy enough i take them for a ride at only half throttle. Nothing shuts em up like gettin there $30,000 truck schooled by a 35 year old FORD tractor with only 220 little hp.
i love my idi, believe me, but if one can devote intelligence to any diesel build they will do well. Going big without hitting all the bases and you will falter early. exactly why i wont go above 10 psi till i stud the truck. Sure i hear 13 is safe and ford says 18 is safe but i wont get much out of 13 that i cant get at 10. Minimal diff in hp to say i can hit 13 or live well at 10.
I got my studs from www.allensfasteners.com i think. Its been awhile so i will have to check but they were $191 which a thought was reasonable for arp i think summit wanted 295. i just looked they are 243 now for the 6.9 ARP #150-4069. I only see studs for psd 7.3's