Doing some thinking and some googling, if you think about where the caliper is clamping down on the brake rotor, with it that high up, it is possible that you could get some wheel hop under heavy braking. Imagine that the wheel/tire combo wants to rotate around where the clamping is occuring. If the caliper is in a stock location (straight back) it is only going to force the tire downwards. If it is where you've put it, it is going to want to twist around a little bit. I think forward of the axle would be the worst, though I doubt any of this a significant factor in reality, just some thoughts.

More importantly, what I could find was that everyone says you want your bleeder facing up for proper bleeding, but I guess as long as the bleeder is higher than where the brake line enters the caliper you will be good to go.

 

That's exactly what i was thinking.

 

As long as there isn't a place for air to stay in the caliper you will be fine...



Paul, I think your jibberish about where to put the caliper is a bunch of hot air.. you cant get wheel hop from a location of a caliper..

 

Like I said, it's minuscule, but there are certain forces being applied and would make a difference in race conditions where every ounce of grip and balance is essential. I doubt there would be physical wheel hop, but the point is there will be a force applied that will want to lift the tire as opposed to forcing it downwards, which could make some difference in braking performance. But, probably not important at all on a big truck like this.

 

What?! So ur telling me, that depending on where the caliper is, the tire will try to go up, or down?!



I'm thinkin not. If that was the case, why do different vehicles have them mounted in different spots?

I'm thinkin it will work the same no matter what.

 

Looks like Rockauto.com has the rubber lines going to the calipers for $5 a side. Might try them...

 

I saw this example while I was looking around teh interwebs. Take a cd and spin it now clamp down with your tbumb and pointer as if it were the brake caliper notice it will sort of spin around wherever you clamp down. Try it in different positions and you can see what it will do.

But, like I said, the forces are so so tiny that it really doesn't make much of a difference. It's more of an "in theory" than real world type deal.

 

When I did the conversion on my dad's truck I used rubber lines to the calipers from a hard line that was T-ed in the middle of the axle.

 

what calipers did you use?

 

They were chebby calipers, I think from a 3/4 ton, not sure on the year. Kris might know, I think his setup is similar.

 

year depends on if you need single or double piston calipers, but it's usually 78-87 chevy 1/2 ton i believe.

 

So if I buy rubber lines coming off the caliper from the same year/model s-10 as the calipers, will the fitting on the end of hose be sae or metric threads?



edit: 91' s-10 4x4

 

No idea, but I'm sure you can double flare whatever end you need onto your hardlines that are going to come out of the T..

What I did was bring everything in from the rubber line that comes down from the frame out and made sure everything matched up while I was in the store. Take your rubber drop line, T, a brake caliper into the store and have them bring you parts until you can match it up. I go to a privately owned western auto that will help me out with any weird stuff like that, they'll spend all day looking up parts to make some crazy crap work on my Bronco. I would guess the brake parts are SAE, but can't say for sure.

 

good point.

 

Read my edit